This MSI MPG A850G model supports PCIe 5.0 and Super Flower LEADEX PLATINUM SE 1000W power delivery.
This MSI MPG A850G model supports PCIe 5.0 and Super Flower LEADEX PLATINUM SE 1000W power delivery.
I bought SF Leadex Platinum SE 1000w. Small dilemma. The Power Cable.
It says 13A, 125V, plus it's for US socket.
https://imgur.com/a/BrAxrta
View: https://imgur.com/a/BrAxrta
Pretty sure my multi plug outlet supports only 10A.
The question is. Should I buy new outlet (found 16A support) and some random no name adapter (US=>EU socket) like this
https://imgur.com/a/l7n3wTv
View: https://imgur.com/a/l7n3wTv
Or just new multi plug and another cable ? One of the first several links I've opened contained user photo with burned cable so I started to consider adapter right away.
In the EU, various types of sockets exist, but Schuko (also known as Type F/C or CEE 7/3 socket, CEE 7/4 plug) is most common. If you own that socket and require a suitable power cord, the best option is to purchase a PSU cable with the correct plug. Never rely on socket conversion adapters for high-wattage devices. Avoid using inexpensive, unknown Chinese adapters. For example, a CEE 7/4 male plug at one end combined with an IEC C13 female socket at the other end would be the appropriate power cable. Additionally, you don’t need to replace your wall socket—10A at 240V provides 2400W, which is more than sufficient for a 1000W PSU. A 1000W load on a 240V circuit draws about 4.1A.
I hope you're doing well.
I'm using a CEE 7/4 male plug in one end and an IEC C13 cable that's my standard PSU power cable. Do I still need to use the new PSU with this cable? I'm not sure if it's original or not. The PSU has been with me for over six years, so I didn't think much about its condition back then.
EDIT: It seems most people are using CEE 7/7 plugs here.
I was thinking about purchasing a quality power cable, but this one is a bit complicated. We have a variety of PC components and some users bring in parts from different places, which shouldn't cause problems. However, the simple cable is proving to be an issue.
Also, I'm curious if the cable's cross-section matters for connecting it to the PSU outlet?
Technically, yes. But all cables age and it would be best if you'd have a new cable.
This is called wire gauge (diameter of the wire).
Further reading:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_gauge
Either measured in AWG (american), SWG (british) or IEC (international).
In general, the thicker the wire - the better protection against melting. Of course, the thickness of cable itself doesn't tell that it has thick wires in it. It could be that the shielding/insulation is thick, but wire itself is thin.
E.g the power cables inside the PC are usually 18 AWG (higher the AWG/SWG, the thinner the wire). Even my CableMod custom sleeved power cables are 18 AWG,
specs:
https://cablemod.com/product/cablemod-se...e-kit-red/
Oh, cheap PSUs may have 20 AWG wires, which isn't good (thinner the wire - easier to melt under load).
Though, the power cable from PSU to the mains is usually quite a chonker.
In my opinion, every PC should have an UPS.
To start off; UPSes can output 3 different kinds of waveform:
1. square wave - cheapest of the three. ONLY good for robust hardware, like power generators and motors.
2. simulated sine wave (aka stepped-approximated sine wave) - mediocre price. Good for most home appliances (e.g fridge, washing machine, lights).
3. true/pure sine wave - high price. It is the same as you get out of the wall socket. ONLY waveform good for sensitive electronics, like medical equipment, TVs, PC PSUs.
So, you want to have true/pure sine wave UPS. Simulated sine wave UPS may also work, but it may not. More of that below;
When looking for an UPS, there are 2 things to look out:
1. Output waveform (square wave, simulated sine wave and true/pure sine wave)
2. Design (stand-by, line-interactive and online)
From here you can read about the differences between output waveform,
link:
https://suvastika.com/why-choose-a-sinew...erter-ups/
And here are explanations about the UPS design,
link:
https://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1272971
Waveform and design
For PCs, line-interactive UPS would be more than enough since PSUs can easily handle the 2ms to 5ms transfer time of line-interactive UPS.
As far as output waveform goes, true/pure sine wave UPS is best used. While simulated sine wave UPSes are cheaper than true/pure sine wave UPSes, PSUs with Active PFC aren't compatible with simulated sine wave. You might get simulated sine wave UPS running with Active PFC PSU but there can be some major issues. Here's what, how and why.
How do you know which PSUs have Active PFC and which ones don't?
Simple, every PSU that has 80+ certification (e.g 80+ Bronze or 80+ Gold) has Active PFC.
What is Active PFC?
Further reading:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_fact...near_loads
What can happen when using simulated sine wave UPS with Active PFC PSU?
When simulated sine wave UPS switches over to the battery power, one of 3 things can happen:
1. UPS displays error resulting PC to shut down immediately.
2. UPS shuts down resulting PC to shut down immediately.
3. UPS switches to battery power resulting PC to power off from UPS (PC stays on).
Why it happens?
Simulated sine wave UPS produces a zero output state during the phase change cycle resulting in a power “gap”. This gap may cause power interruption for active PFC PSUs when switching from AC power output to simulated sine wave output (battery mode).
What to do next?
As stated above, your PC can run off from simulated sine wave UPS but be prepared when you face issues with it. When issues do rise, your best bet would be returning the simulated sine wave UPS and getting true/pure sine wave UPS. Or you can go with true/pure sine wave UPS off the bat.
Wattage
As far as UPS wattage goes, you need to consider the power draw of your PC and monitors. Maybe speakers and wi-fi router too if you plan to plug those into the UPS as well. Though, printers, scanners and other such hardware (full list on your UPS manual) don't plug to the UPS since their startup power draw is way too much for UPS to handle and you can fry your UPS.
Taking PSU's max wattage as a baseline is good idea since it will give your UPS more headroom and you can get longer runtime out of your UPS. Since your PSU is 1000W, at least one monitor is added on top of it. Depending on the monitor size, they use between 23W to 52W. Wi-fi routers don't consume much power. For example, my Cisco EPC3940L consumes 12V at 3A which means 36W.
Good UPS brands to go for are CyberPower, TrippLite and APC. While there are other UPS brands as well, those three are the best out there.
Note: The more powerful UPS you have, the longer UPS can keep your PC running before it's battery is empty.
My 2x PCs (Skylake and Haswell builds, full specs with pics in my sig) do have their own UPS, 1x UPS per PC.
I have two of these in use: CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD (1300VA/780W, true/pure sine wave, line-interactive),
specs:
https://www.cyberpower.com/hk/en/product...300EPFCLCD
My UPSes are part of the PFC Sinewave series and are ~6 years old as of now. CyberPower has made a successor of PFC Sinewave series, with new, revised UPSes (which i also plan to buy, to replace mine out at some point), and for your build, solid option would be;
CyberPower CP1600EPFCLCD 1600VA/1000W (true/pure sine wave, line-interactive) UPS;
specs:
https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product...600epfclcd
Though, for my builds, i'm planning to get the 1350VA/810W versions.