This MSI MPG A850G model supports PCIe 5.0 and Super Flower LEADEX PLATINUM SE 1000W power delivery.
This MSI MPG A850G model supports PCIe 5.0 and Super Flower LEADEX PLATINUM SE 1000W power delivery.
The MSI PSU page claims it functions during Power Excursions.
Check this link: https://imgur.com/a/eJKEiCh
View: https://imgur.com/a/eJKEiCh
Does the Super Flower PSU offer similar protection, or is it a safeguard?
Cost isn't the main concern; I can purchase either PSU at the same price and would like to try SF. I’d appreciate hearing opinions first.
Backstory
Sorry for the grammar issues.
Rig:
I have an MSI B450 Tomahawk Max with Ryzen 3700X and a Noctua dh-15s.
PSU is Seasonic X series SS-750km3 (750w gold, older model).
It has 32GB RAM, a case with a LAN 216, two SATA SSDs, one M.2 SSD, Windows 11, latest build.
Just bought a 2k 27" monitor and played Risk of Rain 2 with friends. Then I ran benchmarks in RDR2 and Cyberpunk.
I slightly undervolted the CPU; CP77 didn’t like it, so I reverted to stock.
I ran several benchmarks—Path Tracing, DLSS, frame generation, full package.
After that, I restarted the PC. Temperatures stayed between 60-67°C for the GPU and 40-60% for the CPU.
GPU draw was around 245W, CPU ~60W.
After a few minutes in Game PC, it shut down again.
Next time, I want faster performance or during intro screens.
When the PSU’s protection (supposedly) works, I can’t turn on the PC without cutting power for at least 15 seconds. Then it restarts like nothing happened.
A bit of background: I ran Ghostrunner 2 max settings on a 1080p 24" screen before.
I’ve flashed the BIOS, changed power plans, and used Max Performance in NVIDIA Control Panel—no success.
Recently, after a power outage, my PC would briefly flash when electricity returned, then restart only after the outlet was turned off for at least 15 seconds.
Then I could play light apps or YouTube, but games froze on SSD after a power cut (again during Risk of Rain 2). Steam errors appeared when checking game files or installing new games. The disk vanished from Windows after restart.
On reboot, it didn’t show up in BIOS. Maybe I messed the connection or something. I reinstalled the disk and it worked again. Games were still present.
After the outage, I tried Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVMe SSD—after a power cut, it would flash briefly, then shut down and restart only after the outlet was off. When playing games from the SSD afterward, everything froze for a moment (again during Risk of Rain 2). Steam reported errors when verifying files or installing games. The disk disappeared in Windows after reboot.
I reinstalled the drive and it appeared again. The next day, same issue—same game, tried turning off PC, outlet, power back on; disk reappeared.
The following day, same problem, same game. I attempted to shut down the PC, turn off the outlet, and power back up—disk showed up.
Downloaded Samsung Magician, no firmware update, everything worked fine. Moved RoR2 to HDD again; no issues for some time, but recently playing Dead by Daylight on SSD froze at the loading screen. I couldn’t use Alt+Tab or switch windows. After logging off and returning, the disk was visible again.
Please let me know if you need more details.
Well, you could say that it's more like protection, but in reality, it is the spec of ATX 3.0.
It means, that for a short time (100μs) PSU must be able to deliver the double of it's rated wattage. So, for 850W unit, it would be 1700W for 100μs and for 1000W unit, it would be 2000W for 100μs.
μs = microsecond.
Further reading about ATX 3.0 standard:
https://hwbusters.com/psus/intel-atx-v3-...d-briefly/
Between the two, i'd go with Super Flower unit every day of the week.
Super Flower, Seasonic and Flextronics make up the 3 best PSU OEMs in the world and their high-end PSUs are also regarded as one of the best PSUs out there.
E.g, i'm personally running Seasonic. Currently 2x PRIME TX-650 and 1x Focus PX-550, but in the past: S12II-520 and M12II-850 EVO as well.
Btw, your current Seasonic X-series is also a solid unit, albeit now quite old and would need replacement.
Fun fact: Seasonic X-series was the world's 1st 80+ Gold rated PSU.
Here's also an article listing best 1000W ATX 3.0 PSUs,
link:
https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-at...busters/5/
And in same article, there are actually many wattage ranges, e.g 850W units,
link:
https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-at...busters/4/
You do not find MSI PSUs there, since MSI PSUs aren't that good, especially compared to the industry old timers (which Seasonic and Flextronics are).
MSI does make good MoBos and GPUs though. Even i have MSI MoBos and GPUs in use (and MSI monitor too). But their PSUs aren't that great, especially when you can buy Seasonic or Super Flower unit.
Btw, to combat blackouts, i'd also look into buying an UPS.
If you want more info about UPSes and which one to buy, let me know. I'll post the info with my next reply.
Слава Україні! 🇺🇦
Greetz from Estonia! 🇪🇪
I truly appreciate your assistance greatly!
I was familiar with Seasonic and Super Flower, but hadn't heard of Flextronics before.
Earlier I inquired about power excursions across various websites, yet no one could clarify that it relates to ATX 3.0 specifications. Please be respectful.
Also, the article I read proved quite useful.
I have another tier list from the UA site and Reddit:
PSU Tier List rev. 17.0g - Cultists Network
This list can assist in selecting the optimal PSU among hundreds of models available. It covers everything from budget to top-tier power supplies.
cultists.network
I'm currently reviewing the tier list you provided along with the prices of these models.
Some time ago, I discovered a Leadex II SF PSU from the seller, which was used for 4090. When asked why sell it if it performed perfectly, they suggested swapping to an ATX 3.1 PSU.
I was hoping for a Super Flower Leadex platinum PSU, but now realize the issue might be more complex. According to the manufacturer's website, it supports 12V ATX 2.2, released in 2005, with seven revisions before the 3.0 standard.
I could purchase it from a US-based Ebay equivalent, so I won't be able to return it unless it meets my system's needs. Please consider this carefully.
Would you recommend this PSU? Also, your card is an RTX 4070 Ti Super Zotac Trinity OC with three 8-pin connections, which equates to a 12VHPWR connection.
Flextronics is seldom mentioned in the consumer power supply sector, yet it holds a prominent position in the server PSU domain. Their server PSUs are considered among the top choices in the industry. However, for consumers there are limited options from Flextronics as well. They are recognized under the brand Corsair AXi. It seems Corsair successfully negotiated with Flextronics to produce PSUs for their AXi series. After that, Flextronics has not made further moves in the consumer PSU market. They continue focusing on the server segment.
I recommend avoiding the Cultists PSU list, as it tends to favor Corsair excessively and overlooks Seasonic. For instance, an entry marked with an asterisk [14] indicates either insufficient review or certain shortcomings were found. Consequently, Seasonic Vertex is still considered speculative. Yet, the Corsair HXi 2022 also carries that same asterisk, yet it remains free from any classification issues regarding multi/single-rail switching. If the listings were more neutral, the HXi 2022 would likely share that status with Seasonic Vertex.
From a build quality perspective, Seasonic Vertex ranks midway between solid Seasonic Focus and premium Seasonic PRIME models. All Vertex units come with a 12-year warranty, matching the longevity of PRIME units. Focus units, on the other hand, offer a 10-year warranty (for semi-modular models) or 7 years for standard ones.
A more balanced approach would be to consult forums like TH, where discussions are less biased. The link provided is outdated but worth checking. HardwareBusters remains a reliable source, regularly updated by Aris, and offers current PSU selections compatible with the latest ATX 3.0/PCI-E 5.0 standards.
For RTX 4090 enthusiasts, investing in a high-quality PSU is essential—especially given the significant costs involved. While some may be tempted to upgrade for newer GPUs, it’s perfectly acceptable to opt for a reliable PSU instead. I personally prefer not to engage with any RTX 4090 users.
Since ATX standards have evolved since ATX 2.2 (with eight revisions including ATX 3.0), power supplies are now critical components. Always prioritize quality over price when purchasing PSUs, and avoid used units due to uncertainty about their condition or compliance with ATX specifications. Buying new is the wisest choice, particularly for premium models such as Super Flower Leadex Platinum SE (10-year warranty) or Seasonic Focus units (also 10 years). Seasonic Vertex and PRIME models offer 12-year warranties.
If you’re considering a Super Flower unit, it’s best to specify the model—such as Leadex II or Platinum SE—and ensure it meets your needs. For RTX 4070 Ti, a 750W PSU is sufficient; larger units like 1000W are unnecessary.
We're discussing the latest SF Leadex Platinum SE models, with sellers offering either 1000 or 1200W units only. It seems the issue remains unchanged, but the card is TI Super. I found a discussion about CPU power settings in BIOS, wondering if my budget motherboard might be affecting things. Could there be other system-related problems? There were reports of 3080 Ti experiencing transient spikes that triggered OCP on a 1000W PSU.
I've been struggling to play The Finals for over five minutes without the computer crashing or power cycling. No BSOD appears, but the only event viewer entry shows an unexpected shutdown (Kernal-Power). My system specs include a 3080 Ti FE 5900X MSI B45M Mortar (original not...). I've checked forums overclockers.co.uk and several other sites, but no direct link was found. One user mentioned their card was affected by SF PSU OCP issues.
I'm quite anxious about this purchase. I plan to upgrade to an AM5 motherboard and possibly a 7800x3D in the future, but I don't have the funds right now. I'm puzzled about why I could run heavy benchmarks smoothly while my PC would shut down instantly just to start a game. I can't even load into CP77 at the moment.
From what I've read online, ATX 3.0 isn't necessary for current models. I'm trying to ask if transient spikes or power excursions are relevant, since manufacturers had to address this earlier. It seems like a marketing feature rather than a current requirement.
Sorry for the many questions and my nervousness. I'm considering whether to wait for an ATX 3.0 PSU upgrade now or proceed with the AM5 plan.
I recently discovered it's possible to purchase Super Flower Leadex VII XG 850W GOLD for just a little extra cost.
1kW Platinum SE would do fine.
While Platinum SE is using older ATX standard, 2.2, released way back in 2005, the PSU itself is actually much newer. Platinum SE was 1st released in Q1 2020.
That's considered "new platform" in PSU world. E.g for comparison, my oldest PRIME unit [SSR-650TD] was released back in 2015 and i bought it in 2016. So, mine is already 8 years old, but still going strong (it has 12 years of warranty).
RTX 4070 Ti Super has same 285W TDP as RTX 4070 Ti. So, 750W unit does fine. But higher capacity won't hurt either.
Since you're also running Ryzen chip, on same MSI B450 chipset MoBo (albeit you have different model MoBo), it wouldn't hurt to try to put negative PBO offset in BIOS. It may fix the issue. If it does, then you know who the culprit is.
While not unheard of, one needs to be specific, rather than generalizing it.
Super Flower makes many PSU models. So, which PSU exactly was used in the system. Also, what capacity unit. Moreover, what GPU was used.
RTX 20-series and especially RTX 30-series GPUs are notorious in GPU transient power spikes, where GPU power draw can spike 2 - 2.5 times of GPU TDP.
So, if someone is running e.g RTX 3090 and has paired it with 750W PSU, GPU transient power spikes will trip the PSU, regardless if it is Super Flower, Seasonic or Corsair. RTX 3090, which is 350W GPU, can spike to ~660W. Add the rest of the system to it at 200W (or at 300W when running Core i9/Ryzen 9), and you'll end up with ~860W-960W, which clearly is WAY too much for ANY 750W unit to handle.
Further info about GPU transient power spikes:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnRyyCsuHFQ
Difficult to tell what issue your PC has. Could be PSU, could be CPU. But since Seasonic X-series has seen it's years, i'd replace it regardless. As for CPU, i said above what you could try.
This is true.
Look the Steve Burke's (GamersNexus) video i linked above. It tells A LOT about GPU transient power spikes.
But the short of it is: that GPU transient power spikes 1st started to appear in GTX 10-series (Pascal) and as new generations were released, it got worse. RTX 20-series has even higher GPU transient power spikes. It reached it's peak with RTX 30-series GPUs, where you had to use easy 200-300W higher capacity PSU than otherwise suggested, just to soak up the GPU transient power spikes. But with RTX 40-series, the peak of transient power spikes has come down. With RTX 40-series, it is more like 1 - 1.5 times of GPU TDP.
In GamersNexus review of RTX 4090, at 10:20, there is talk of RTX 40-series GPU transient power spikes;
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9vC9NBL8zo
Since GPU transient spikes are the issue, ATX 3.0 standard was released, which among other things, also caters to the GPU transient power spikes. "Power excursion" is fancier word for transient power spike, but as i said above, ATX 3.0 standard specifies that PSU must be able to sustain two times it's max rated wattage for short period of time.
So, you could either go a bit higher wattage wise with ATX 2.2/2.5 PSU, to create the wattage buffer for transient power spikes, OR go with ATX 3.0/3.1 PSU which is closer to the suggested PSU wattage.
Example: RTX 3090 (350W TDP), either 1000W ATX2.2/2.5 PSU or 850W ATX 3.0/3.1 PSU.
Suggested PSU by Nvidia for RTX 3090 is 750W unit.
But i like to suggest a bit beefier unit than manufacturer suggested, to factor in CPU/GPU OC, that some people may do.
PSU world (or power delivery in general) is complex and many think little, if any, about PSUs. So, it can be overwhelming when starting to research it.
😀
In a choice between Platinum SE 1000W and VII XG 850W, wattage wise, you'd be good either way. Platinum SE has plenty of wattage buffer and VII XG has ATX 3.1.
VII XG would give you 12V-2x6 power cable, directly from PSU to the GPU, so, you don't have to use power adapter to power your GPU. Makes build look more clean and less cable clutter. Since currently, you need to use 2x 8-pin PCI-E power cables to power the 12VHPWR adapter to your GPU, right?
But you'd loose a bit on efficiency wise.
Platinum SE is 80+ Platinum
VII XG is 80+ Gold
(And my PRIME TX-650 is 80+ Titanium
)
VII XG is newer than Platinum SE, released in Q1 2024 (Platinum SE was released Q1 2020).
So, overall, VII XG would be better choice.
I've actually already checked that GN video regarding Transient Spikes.
And PBO offset is available for Zen 3 and higher if I understand correctly, while mine is Zen 2. Negative PBO offset = underclock/volt ? I'm not good at manual overclocking if there's maybe any workaround.
I wish there was an easy way to find the culprit.
That single post I linked made me doubt whole thing regarding the purchase of the new PSU. But on the other hand, if negative PBO offset could've solve the issue, then once again it's power related issue or am I wrong ?
A bit nervous about spending almost 200 usd just to see my PC shuts down again if it's not PSU related somehow.
It's 3 cables. I've specified under the spoiler along with all my PC drama
😀
My CPU voltage was at 1.45. I adjusted it to 1.3 and manually set the multiplier to 41.5...I still anticipate shutdown but...
https://imgur.com/a/T2xZq8B View: https://imgur.com/a/T2xZq8B
Please don't examine my vents curve. I forgot to hide it.
I just left the game running in city, due to some home commitments, and everything is still okay.
EDIT: I think I've won a coil whine lottery.
When I previously attempted to undervolt the GPU, the PC would shut down under heavy load during demanding games. Lowering the Power Limit would yield the same outcome or just reduce performance?
EDIT2: it wasn't coil whine...the separate dust filter from the front panel Lian Li was the reason we had to buy it, and after cleaning everything is fine. These 160mm fans collect dust quickly.
I set the Power Limit to 90%, which kept the clocks stable. I also fixed the curve and achieved more comfortable noise levels...damn, I didn't expect this day to end like this.
When dealing with PC problems, whether they involve software or hardware, identifying the exact issue remains the most challenging part. It often requires a significant amount of time. Once the problem is found, the solution is quick and straightforward, particularly when it comes to hardware repairs.
PBO was initially released for Ryzen 3000-series processors. This means your specific chip would also benefit from it.
Not quite.
AMD PBO mainly extends the CPU's boost duration. Restricting the CPU from reaching its maximum or prolonged boost levels can actually enhance stability. However, if the standard boost capacity or extended time with PBO somehow leads to instability, that could be a concern.
The best resource for a detailed breakdown is Steve from GamersNexus, where you can watch his in-depth explanation about PB, PB2, and PBO: [YouTube link].
Precision Boost (PB) and Precision Boost 2 (PB2) are the standard approaches for boosting Ryzen CPUs. Precision Boost Overdrive (PBO), on the other hand, is not a default setting but can be employed to lengthen boost periods.
In the video, at 12:21, you'll notice the BIOS setting for "Max CPU boost clock override," which alters the PB2 algorithm. You can adjust this by increments of 25 Mhz, up to +200 Mhz, or reduce it down to -1000 Mhz (if available).
Power limits differ from undervolting.
Undervolting involves adjusting the voltage level of a GPU core. The RTX 4070 Ti Super default core frequency starts at 2340 Mhz around 835mV, and as it increases to turbo levels up to 2610 Mhz around 925mV. Lowering the voltage across all frequencies reduces heat but can also affect stability. If the voltage range drops from 835mV to 925mV, then a lower setting might bring it down to 825mV to 915mV (-10mV).
This adjustment prevents the GPU from overheating, though it may cause instability if pushed beyond certain frequency ranges (e.g., above 2500 Mhz), leading to crashes and system failures.
Power limits cap the wattage a GPU can draw. The RTX 4070 Ti Super typically draws around 285W, though it can exceed this in practice. With no power limit, the GPU can operate at its maximum draw (up to 285W). Following the default frequency/voltage settings keeps it stable within 2340 Mhz at ~835mV to 2610 Mhz at ~925mV.
However, with a lower power cap, such as 250W, the frequency can rise until the power limit is reached (e.g., up to 2550 Mhz at ~912mV). The GPU core remains stable because it receives the correct voltage for its operating frequency, but overall performance is constrained.
Undervolting aims to reduce the voltage supplied to the GPU core across all frequencies, which helps with cooling. It's a delicate balance; too little voltage can cause instability, while too much may not significantly improve efficiency.
Understanding these concepts can be tricky, so an analogy might help:
Cars (everyone understands cars). The GPU power limit is similar to a speed limit on the road. If you're restricted to 90km/h, you drive at that speed while consuming 10L per 100km. Without the limit, you can go faster—say 150km/h—while still using 10L per 100km.
Undervolting is akin to reducing the fuel output to the engine at any given speed, improving efficiency but starving it of necessary power. This affects performance across all speeds (30km/h, 90km/h, 150km/h), potentially leading to overheating or shutdowns if overdone.