The tower system shuts down accompanied by a click noise.
The tower system shuts down accompanied by a click noise.
It seems the USB hub was likely responsible for the issue!
I kept the device running nonstop from yesterday until today, using Linux to first duplicate the 2T WD Blue drive through SATA to a 5T Seagate. The process took from 16:45 to 23:16, and I performed a check before going to bed at 23:36 when I woke up later than expected to see the progress. There were no interruptions.
The machine remained active for over 12 hours without any hubs connected—neither via USB cable nor through the power supply.
It appears the issue might have originated from the USB cable itself, as problems occurred even after disconnecting the hub but keeping the cable attached. I’m unsure if this makes sense, since the cable was removed during earlier failures.
The problem likely lies along the USB connection path from the hub to the PC.
I plan to replace the main hub but retain the USB cable. I’m uncertain whether testing the other two drives is wise or if it’s better to discard all three and purchase a new unit.
The core issue is the primary hub, which was consistently active during my usage. It has extensions for the drives I rely on; when one is powered on, the others appear without further steps.
I need to reset early startup with a wired mouse, as the existing one is causing difficulties. Pairing a wireless mouse with Linux on the laptop is also problematic due to click issues and pairing resets.
I’m unsure if anyone can suggest a dependable wired mouse, as there are many options, but most seem unreliable.
With the current model’s early startup feature, selecting drives causes erratic mouse pointer movement—it feels like a dart game. I only know for certain when the system exits and confirms the boot choice.
It seems the energy consumption isn’t just about watts; it involves precise calculations based on joules over time. At 188 watts, the calculation suggests more than 31.5 minutes of operation before efficiency improves.
Over time, manufacturers are aiming for greener products, but inefficiencies like heat and electrical losses still occur.
Some people compare energy use to rowing a machine: if you track joules or calories, you’d know how long it would take to burn off calories with exercise.
If I chose a 1600-watt model instead of the 1000-watt one, what would be the price difference?
You mentioned 1000 watts is enough, but if the cost isn’t significantly higher, I might prefer a more powerful unit.
Also, I tested an energy monitor after sunset while the PC cloned drives to a sector file on the larger drive. With the fridge off and lights switched off, only the PC, monitor, and heating used electricity—about 188 watts total. The house consumed around 500 watts when switched back on.
The monitor proved reliable, as it syncs with utility data feeds for accurate billing.
I attempted to upload a photo using Samsung Dex, but after an AI update, the connection failed. It took me ten years to send the image from my phone back in 2015.
AI is inherently unreliable because mathematical logic shows you can’t fully define an infinite set within a formal system—especially not without errors. Historically, attempts to define integers using Peano axioms were flawed; they’re more like high-level descriptions rather than precise rules. Pure mathematics relies on set theory, which itself is a theoretical model, not a definitive system.
This uncertainty reinforces my doubt about AI’s reliability.
Problem most likely is the USB hub, rather than the USB cable between the hub and PC. Since the USB cable i linked to you back then and which you've now linked to us again, is just a pathway. A cable where electrical current can flow in either direction. From PC to USB hub and from USB hub to PC. USB cable itself doesn't generate any power. It is just a conduit.
So, most likely, the USB hub itself is faulty, where the power on/off button doesn't work anymore, by letting some of the +5V to bleed through the switch, to continue on to the PC. And PSU catched the +5V rail going out of spec, thus shutting down the entire PC.
Depending on how old they are.
But i'd replace them all, if they all are same make/model. Since it would be just matter of time when other two would act up as well.
Well, since mice are in constant use, they wear out fast as well.
In my time, i've had several Corsair "gaming" mice in use and i've came to learn model specific issues.
Corsair Sabre RGB (EOL now) - will develop double left click fault within ~1 year of usage. (Has happened to 3x mice i've owned.)
Corsair Nightsword RGB (
specs
) - will develop middle mouse button (scroll wheel) click down issue within ~1 year of usage. (Has happened to 2x mice i've owned.)
Now, my current mouse is the Nightsword RGB and since i use the middle mouse button a lot (to open/close browser tabs), the button eventually works sporadically until completely stops working. But the scroll up/down still works fine. So, if you do not use middle button click heavily, it actually is quite durable.
In-depth review:
https://www.rtings.com/mouse/reviews/cor...tsword-rgb
Nightsword RGB is expensive mouse, since it has plethora of features, where most of them would be useless for you (some of them are even useless for me).
Those features include;
* dedicated control software (Corsair iCUE)
* several buttons (8 programmable, 10 in total)
* ARGB eyecandy (4 different zones)
* thumb rest
* sophisticated weight calibration (up to 120 different weight and balance configurations, thanks to 2 sets of weights and 6 mounting locations)
* real-time center of gravity detection system
* 18000 DPI optical sensor
* Omron switches (rated for for 50 million clicks)
* selectable polling rate (125Hz, 250Hz, 500Hz or 1000Hz)
* on-board memory storage (to store custom profiles)
* wired connection (USB 2.0 type-A)
All that, for 66 quid (as a sale);
Amazon UK:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-NIGHTSW...1678R?th=1
For you, i suggest you look something else, since there's no point for you to pay extra for most (if not all) of those features it has.
E.g SteelSeries Prime or Logitech M100/B100,
further reading:
https://www.rtings.com/mouse/reviews/best/by-type/wired
There are no CyberPower UPSes in the PFC Sinewave series that are 1600W. The 1000W one is the beefiest in that series. So, you need to look towards different series of UPS, if you want 1600W one.
1000W UPS costs 320 quid,
amazon UK:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cyberpower-CP16...B0D97R82VC
200W load runtime is 31.5 mins.
Closest one to 1600W would be Smart APP UPS series, professional tower 2200VA/1980W,
specs:
https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product...2200elcdsl
And costs 685 quid,
amazon UK:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/CyberPower-Prof...B00VHL2LGC
It too is line-interactive, true/pure sine wave with user replaceable batteries. But much bulkier and doesn't have UK plug output, instead one IEC C19 and 8x IEC C13.
Runtime wise, 200W load lasts for 75 mins.
I bought 2 around a year ago when building the new PC, and the 3rd one a few weeks ago when I ran out of sockets, as I had 20 devices, but one drive needed 2 USB sockets with one for power,
I just hope a brand new one doesnt fail because something at the PSU is damaged?
but when I reused the hub sockets for drives yesterday, no problem.
maybe then it is just worn out,
note that I just need a wired mouse for the early startup and also to pair the wireless mouse.
I have a high end wireless handshake mouse, the Logitech MX Vertical, where you hold the mouse as if giving a handshake, super ergonomic:
handshake mouse photo
Amazon.co.uk
which has a 3 year unlimited replacement guarantee from the shop, any time it fails, they will replace it immediately, no limit how many times.
it cost me about £100, then when I actioned a replacement they gave me a £40 voucher, because it now only cost about £60! where they replaced it by refunding and then re-charging, so they refunded 100 and now charged 60, and gave me the surplus 40 as a voucher!
the MX Vertical can be used from 3 different PCs, where it has a switch to go between one of 3 PCs, sometimes I run out as I have Windows and Linux on the tower and laptop which equates to 4 PCs, as the mouse pairing is OS level and not hardware level. sometimes I need to run Linux on both, eg I had to compile a Linux program on the M.2 drive to move to the Linux on the other machine.
I just need the wired mouse to pair the wireless one, and also I need the wired mouse for the early startup as that cannot be used with a wireless mouse. The wireless mouse does have an alternative adaptor which is USB, perhaps I can use that, I dont know if it is compatible with the early startup. but I can only install that on one machine. I did keep the wireless adaptor for the replaced one, but I dont know if I can use it with the new one.
25 kilos!
how would I use it in the UK?
some machines with US power plugs like that arrive with a UK power cable which converts it, but it needs to be designed to accept the UK power which is 230V 50Hz, same as Germany. in the old days the UK was 240V 50Hz, and Germany was 220V 50Hz, then they uniformised that to 230V plus minus 10V and 50Hz so you could use the same equipment in both countries. Germany also uses PAL for TV, but I think the sound is arranged differently, so if you used a dvd recorder in the other country, there might be no sound.
France uses SECAM, I think the russian system is based on SECAM. at uni someone told me the US NTSC is nicknamed "never the same colour" as when there is a disturbance you get crazy colours, whereas with PAL disturbances cause it to go monochrome as the alternating directions cancel out colour distortions.
I need to think over this, if I go for the 685 one, I need to delay it a bit, as I have been spending money like there is no tomorrow! I bought a second hand 3D 3MOS camcorder recently, brand new condition. It has the best video colour I have ever seen, 100% realistic, where it has 6 MOS sensors, 1 for each of r, g, b for each lens. most 3D camcorders just have 1 sensor for all 6! that technology of 1 MOS per r, g, b is called 3MOS by Panasonic. it is old and discontinued technology, so eg it has two large format 64GB SD cards. large also, but for 3D that is best.
Well, it doesn't necessarily mean the PSU is damaged. After all, you purchased one of the top-quality PSUs available. Instead, the USB hub might have activated the PSU's safeguards—such as OCP, OVP, or UVP—causing the shutdown. For more details on PSU protections, you can check this link: It's worth noting that you'll need an IEC C14 adapter if you want to use standard UK plugs with it. Here’s a link to a suitable option on Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elec-Plug-Socke...ZJ2ZU4Y7CK Alternatively, you can use a direct cable that ends with IEC C14 and connects to the UPS's IEC C13 socket. Also, the IEC C-connectors are international or universal. If you detach the power cable from the back of any PSU, you'll find the same IEC C13 socket on the PSU itself, while the cable retains an IEC C14 plug.