The tower system shuts down accompanied by a click noise.
The tower system shuts down accompanied by a click noise.
I think its the idea which is daunting, once I start probably not so bad!
I have to also dismantle the earlier PC a bit to extricate the other PSU!
it does sound like I have no choice but to exchange PSUs,
is there any chance the problem is with the mobo?
or would the PSU catch any problem before it reaches the mobo?
ok, will do this as the next experiment, before trying to change PSUs.
if it is just the hub which is malfunctioning, that would be better!
will try that as the 2nd experiment, as asked above, could the power outage have caused a problem at the mobo?
eg where say hub and PSU are fine, but not the mobo?
with other things they cover "acts of god", eg storm damage to a roof, but they dont cover wear and tear. accidental damage has to be opted into.
I think the power outage is an "act of god"!
my current policy covers damage up to something like £2000 per item, anything above £2000 has to be individually listed and an extra premium is charged for those.
but the UPS presumably supplies the 50Hz 230V voltage?
they must then convert the battery DC to the 50Hz 230V?
is the battery just a normal rechargeable battery, something like lithium ion?
my laptop has a battery I cannot remove, if I switch off the mains it just continues with the integral battery, so in a power cut I think it will just continue, but a surge maybe could cause a problem to its transformer?
what I meant was when the UPS replaces the mains, I would be asleep so wouldnt be able to cleanly shut down whatever I was doing.
how long does the UPS power the PC for?
but maybe a higher end one does!
its like you can buy plug adaptors which shield the user and equipment, but the modern fuseboxes in the UK shield at the fusebox ("consumer unit"), eg with a hedge trimmer by accident I cut the power cable with the hedge trimmer, and there was a brief orange flame and a sound. The consumer unit switch had tripped, I flicked that back. I had cut the extender cable not the integral cable, and when I connected the integral cable to the mains, no problem!
the consumer unit shields both the person and the equipment, I just wonder if it would shield the computer's PSU?
I have uploaded a photo of the consumer unit:
consumer unit
I think the multiplugs with the PC etc are from items 3 or 11,
when they install that, they have to test all circuits and forward the certification document to some governmental authority, probably local government. And to give the customer a copy of the certification. when the guy did the testing, he located a missing circuit, which we eventually found which was a nonstandard arrangement.
very interesting image! I was dabbling with 2 specific early phases of that for 32 bit PCs, where I would boot code directly from a floppy, which would be the stage one boot loader in that diagram and none of the steps beyond that, and I wasnt aware of the steps before that! where I was just at steps 7 and 8, if you answer no to the first question step. I wasnt aware of the other steps of the diagram, I would generate the floppy from a Windows command prompt using 16 bit BIOS code, to load the code to the floppy. then reboot from the floppy disk. I think the 32 bit windows command prompt has an emulation of the BIOS.
my guess is I could put that kind of code on the first sector of a CDR in this era, and boot from that? or the first sector of a hard disk dedicated to the experiment.
the code on the first sector of the floppy then via the BIOS would load further code from the floppy and execute that.
my code written for an old era floppy disk, would work from a USB floppy also, where the BIOS emulates an old era floppy from the USB one. ie no USB commands needed.
do you have any links to the programming environment for todays 64 bit PCs for stage one? have they replaced the old BIOS with some new kind of BIOS? maybe a 64 bit BIOS?
eg the mobo early startup has a mouse pointer and graphics imagery, that isnt possible with 16 bit! as there isnt enough memory for one proper video screen, instead they used tricks, where 1 byte will encode a font character on the screen.
1 HD screen is some 2 million pixels, not viable from say a 32kilobyte 16 bit machine!
with the 32 bit PCs, you have a 16 bit environment much like the PC was in 1980, where I used info from a bygone era, the code then if it wants can promote the CPU to 32 bit, using supervisor level commands, and then with the 32 bit code use supervisor level commands to promote to 64 bit. But I think they have changed this for todays PCs, as you cannot install 32 bit windows. so maybe stage one is immediately a 64 bit environment?
https://laymentogeeks.wordpress.com/wp-c...8/rurr.jpg
is there any way to pause that slide show?
as it rushes to successive slides before I have completed reading any!
if I read it at that speed, I wouldnt have time to understand what I have read!
If you're wondering why the Corsair rainbow lights remain active, it might be because they’re receiving power from an external 5V USB source, separate from the computer. It’s best to remove all USB connections except for the keyboard and mouse to ensure the tests stay accurate.
I’ve encountered and examined faulty mains on/off switches in ATX power supplies. Occasionally, the contacts become stuck, meaning even after setting the power switch to off, the PSU stays connected to the mains. This is rare but these switches can wear out quickly if used excessively.
All of this discussion is theoretical. To avoid any 5V "back feed," disconnect all USB devices except keyboard and mouse as recommended by @Aeacus. If the issue continues, replace the PSU and its related cables. Even with multiple hard drives, I can swap a PSU in under 15 minutes without needing to reorganize everything.
Of course, if you’ve secured every PSU cable to the chassis and routed wires behind the motherboard tray, it may take slightly longer. There’s no necessity to dismantle everything just yet. Simply disconnect all leads from the old PSU to the motherboard, GPU, drives, fans, etc., and install the new PSU connections instead.
You can safely place the new PSU outside the case and power it on. If you’re worried, attach an earth strap from the back of the hanging PSU to the chassis for added safety.
No. The RCD/ELCB is there for your protection. It senses a discrepancy of more than 20 or 30mA flowing back down the Neutral, compared with the current flowing in to the house on the Line input. If more than 30mA is diverted and flows through your heart (if you touch a live wire) you're likely to die.
A UPS can offer some protection for an ATX PSU, especially if it's a more costly double-conversion unit that always remains online.
https://www.electricaltechnology.org/202...e-ups.html
Typical budget UPS systems send the AC power straight to the computer using relay contacts. Any issue on the mains will reach the PC with little filtering. Should the mains experience severe short-term changes, such as high voltage spikes, the UPS may not activate the inverter and could cut off the PC before the problem resolves.
Hopefully, a reliable UPS will switch to battery power within less than 10 milliseconds. If your ATX PSU meets the 17ms requirement, you should be safe. But until the relay changes to inverter mode, the PC might still face mains disturbances, potentially harming the PSU. This could happen in just a few milliseconds, but if significant energy is involved...
A double-conversion always-online UPS changes AC mains into DC and stores it in the battery (similar to a cheaper model), yet it keeps running the inverter continuously (unlike a basic UPS). The inverter then supplies the PC with a clean, isolated power source, shielded from fluctuations on the mains.
Perfect is not achievable. I’ve experienced two lightning strikes near my home, both causing equipment damage. Devices like broadband routers, firewalls, switches, and answering machines were affected. No UPS could prevent such electrical shocks.
Switching from telephone or cable broadband to optical fibre-to-the-premises internet reduced the risk of lightning strikes. All issues ended up being carried into the house through underground wiring, gas pipes, and water mains. My TVs, antennas, and satellite dishes on the roof remained untouched.
The only UPS I’ve seen that could sustain your system for 17 hours was one used to power hundreds of servers in a large building. It maintained critical operations for just 10 seconds before the diesel generator kicked in. The facility contained numerous batteries and inverters.
A standard UPS can only keep systems running for a few minutes, possibly longer if it delivers full rated power. In theory, this gives enough time to shut down safely—manually or automatically—without corrupting Windows, but don’t expect a backup to succeed.
Don’t rely on a UPS lasting more than 20 minutes unless you’re willing to invest heavily. A budget UPS for a single low-power PC might last only five minutes during a mains failure.
I’m using a 1500VA APC UPS costing around £600, equipped with two 12V 9Ahr batteries. Smaller units have a single 12V 7Ahr battery. I can power several PCs and networking equipment from my UPS, but only briefly if the mains goes down.
The optional Ethernet card in my UPS notifies each PC via the network during outages and can trigger Windows’ automatic shutdown. During intense tasks, it’s a race to close files in panic mode. Long video transcodes (up to 36 hours) simply fail.
For quicker backups, you’ll need to reconsider your backup plan and possibly spend significant amounts of money.
I suspect most of my eleven USB3 desktop drives are SMR (Shingle Magnetic Recording). I’m not bothering to check anymore—they’re too slow and generate excessive heat.
SMR disks are unsuitable for anything beyond slow archiving. Frequent use with heavy deletions causes them to slow dramatically. They also perform poorly in my TrueNAS servers.
https://www.howtogeek.com/803276/cmr-vs....ifference/
Over the past decade, I’ve been very careful when purchasing new internal drives to ensure they’re CMR/PMR, not SMR.
I own two 8TB Toshiba 3.5" CMR disks in a system; transfers begin at 250MB/s on outer cylinders and drop to 120MB/s at the inner ones. This means large files (50MB+) transfer quickly. Testing an SMR disk would likely yield only 20MB/s–40MB/s.
For rapid backups (up to 800MB/s) from M.2 NVMe, I use portable SSDs (4TB Crucial X6). The X9 reaches up to 1050MB/s and the X10 up to 2100MB/s. While not inexpensive, they’re far superior to traditional hard drives.
When backing up, always verify the transfer speed for large files—ideally it should be 100MB/s or faster. A flood of small files can cripple sequential backups. That’s why I use WinRAR to create massive archives before transferring them to LTO4 tape, which demands a steady 80MB/s.
I began this experiment right away, with all hubs disconnected but three USB drives connected straight to the PC.
You mentioned to remove all USB devices, yet I wanted some drives directly linked for a tougher test. But there were no hubs—neither through cables nor via power supply.
It looks like this setup:
I observed that after completely removing the 10 hubs (both from the mains and the cable), and disconnecting the USB cable from the PC, the system stayed on without issues.
Now I have a brand new multiplier with three connections:
PC, monitor, and a 2TB SATA magnetic drive without a hub.
I also possess the magnetic drive and another USB drive that doesn’t draw power from the mains—both connected via adapters to the PC.
Then I ran Linux from a flash drive, which was also attached through an adapter to the PC’s USB port.
Currently, there are three USB drives, all directly plugged into the PC’s USB ports using adapters, with no hubs involved.
Now, from Linux, I’m conducting a detailed operation—comparing sectors of the 2TB drive with those on the 5TB drive.
Creating the clone took about 17 hours; I anticipate the comparison might take the same duration. There’s a progress bar to monitor it. If it finishes, I believe the issue was the hub and I should replace it.
I started at 15:37 and have reached 33,664 MB by 15:52.
I’m confident it’s just the hub; otherwise, there would be problems with the PC or power supply.
But I don’t make any assumptions.
In reality, the USB3 drive failed! During the file comparison, it ran out of space early.
So I’ll shut it down, move the SATA drive from the enclosure to a separate bay, and restart.
After that, there will only be two USB drives—a 256GB Samsung flash drive and a 5TB Seagate one touch—both powered through the PC’s USB ports, not via hubs or mains.
I don't understand this CMR/PMR and SMR terminology. I wasn't aware that the rate changes with the radius. With CDs, the information is stored in a spiral beginning at the centre, and there are two methods: CLV = constant linear velocity, usually used for recording where the speed under the head remains unchanged, and constant angular velocity, CAV, where the disk spins at a steady pace, often employed during reading. I was told this by an email from someone who had worked at Philips on their CD technology.
As it's a spiral, the data increases as you move outward for CAV, which is why optical disks are described as 1-6X. Blu-ray uses a blue laser, while CDs use a red one, explaining the name "blu-ray". Since blue light has a higher frequency than red, Blu-ray can store more data. I learned this from an advertisement for Blu-ray.
I previously thought magnetic disks were not spiral-shaped and had constant speed, is that correct?
When you mention MB/s, are you referring to megabits, megabytes, megabits, or megabytes?
Some Samsung drives seem to use MB/s to mean megabits per second, which matches the speeds I see. For example, 560MB/s equals 70 megabytes per second.
It might help to clarify what you mean to avoid confusion.
I relocated the magnetic drive to a SATA bay and started the file comparison, but it stopped early. It turned out to be a sector clone issue—only 38.3 GB was affected. The shell command didn’t report any errors during the process, so I assumed it worked, and it actually took 17 hours.
Therefore, I re-cloned the entire drive onto a 5T magnetic USB3 drive. The 2T magnetic drive is now in a SATA bay.
I have four USB devices directly connected to the PC via extenders: keyboard, mouse, Seagate 5T USB3 drive (powered through the USB port), and a Samsung 256G USB flash drive for launching Linux.
If the PC fails, I’ll need to run an experiment using only the keyboard and mouse as USB devices.
I began this at 16:45 UK time, and it is copying at 104 MB/s. In this context, 'm' stands for 1,000,000, 'M' for 1,024 x 1,024, 'G' for 1,000,000,000, and 'g' for 1,024 cubed.
I use these notations in Windows, while Linux uses M for 10^6 and Mi for 1,024 squared. Linux also employs G and Gi similarly.
If this succeeds, I may discard all three USB hubs and purchase new ones, as I don’t remember which were connected during the power outage.
As it currently stands, would it be safe to assume that you found your culprit?
Good/great quality PSUs - yes (like your TX-1600). Low/crap quality PSUs are so poor that when those act up, they fry other components as well.
Actually, the lower the PSU's build quality is - the higher the chance that PSU fries something else when PSU acts up (be it on it's own or due to main electricity grid issues).
This would be the worst case since replacing a MoBo is very tedious + then some.
But looks like you've found your culprit and the rest of the PC is fine.
Power lines are man made objects. And any issues with electricity, isn't act of god. Natural disasters (earthquake, floods, forest fires, tornadoes, flash freeze etc) are act of god. At least this is my understanding. You need to read your insurance terms to see what is covered and what is not.
You can pause the slide show and look at the images one-by-one with the slide show control buttons, just below the slides. If you pause it, it does show the next slide but then stops. You can then use the forward and backward buttons (next to play/pause button) to browse through the images at your own pace.
No.
The PSU what you have, Seasonic PRIME TX-1600, is one of the best (if not the best) PSU money can buy. Yet, it doesn't have internal battery in it, to keep the PC running when there is power loss. For that, you need UPS with dedicated battery.
My knowledge is better than the average but not in-depth. So, no links to share.
I'm jack of all trades, but master of none. Though oftentimes better than master of one.
Yes. Though, there's more to that actually.
Misgar already explained some about UPSes, namely online vs offline topology, but there's more;
In my opinion, every PC should have an UPS.
UPSes can output 3 different kinds of waveform:
1. square wave - cheapest of the three. ONLY good for robust hardware, like power generators and motors.
2. simulated sine wave (aka stepped-approximated sine wave) - mediocre price. Good for most home appliances (e.g fridge, washing machine, lights).
3. true/pure sine wave - high price. It is the same as you get out of the wall socket. ONLY waveform good for sensitive electronics, like medical equipment, TVs, PC PSUs.
So, you want to have true/pure sine wave UPS. Simulated sine wave UPS may also work, but it may not. More of that below;
When looking for an UPS, there are 2 things to look out:
1. Output waveform (square wave, simulated sine wave and true/pure sine wave)
2. Design (stand-by, line-interactive and online)
From here you can read about the differences between output waveform,
link:
https://suvastika.com/why-choose-a-sinew...erter-ups/
And here are explanations about the UPS design,
link:
https://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1272971
Waveform and design
For PCs, line-interactive UPS would be more than enough since PSUs can easily handle the 2ms to 5ms transfer time of line-interactive UPS.
As far as output waveform goes, true/pure sine wave UPS is best used. While simulated sine wave UPSes are cheaper than true/pure sine wave UPSes, PSUs with Active PFC aren't compatible with simulated sine wave. You might get simulated sine wave UPS running with Active PFC PSU but there can be some major issues. Here's what, how and why.
How do you know which PSUs have Active PFC and which ones don't?
Simple, every PSU that has 80+ certification (e.g 80+ Bronze or 80+ Gold) has Active PFC.
What is Active PFC?
Further reading:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_fact...near_loads
What can happen when using simulated sine wave UPS with Active PFC PSU?
When simulated sine wave UPS switches over to the battery power, one of 3 things can happen:
1. UPS displays error resulting PC to shut down immediately.
2. UPS shuts down resulting PC to shut down immediately.
3. UPS switches to battery power resulting PC to power off from UPS (PC stays on).
Why it happens?
Simulated sine wave UPS produces a zero output state during the phase change cycle resulting in a power “gap”. This gap may cause power interruption for active PFC PSUs when switching from AC power output to simulated sine wave output (battery mode).
What to do next?
As stated above, your PC can run off from simulated sine wave UPS but be prepared when you face issues with it. When issues do rise, your best bet would be returning the simulated sine wave UPS and getting true/pure sine wave UPS. Or you can go with true/pure sine wave UPS off the bat.
Wattage
As far as UPS wattage goes, you need to consider the power draw of your PC and monitors. Maybe speakers and wi-fi router too if you plan to plug those into the UPS as well. Though, printers, scanners and other such hardware (full list on your UPS manual) don't plug to the UPS since their startup power draw is way too much for UPS to handle and you can fry your UPS.
Usually, taking PSU's max wattage as a baseline is good idea since it will give your UPS more headroom and you can get longer runtime out of your UPS. But since your PSU is 1600W, (over-provisioned with wattage since back then, you were unsure if to go with RTX 4090 or not), there would be no need to look for ~2000VA/1600W UPS. Because the max load on your PC, with RTX 4060, would be ~300W. So, smaller UPS would also suffice.
Good UPS brands to go for are CyberPower, TrippLite and APC. While there are other UPS brands as well, those three are the best out there.
Note: The more powerful UPS you have, the longer UPS can keep your PC running before it's battery is empty.
Yes.
Depends on the UPS. But since battery in UPS is big, it is usually sealed lead-acid battery and rechargeable (essentially the same battery as in your car).
Proper UPS (e.g line-interactive topology) has AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator) in it. It catches the surges and brownouts before feeding the power to the PC, when PC isn't running off from battery power.
E.g CyberPower CP1600EPFCLCD-UK 1600VA/1000W UPS would be good UPS for your build,
specs:
https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product...cification
It is line-interactive, true/pure sine wave, offline UPS. And successor model of the UPS that i have in use with my PCs.
From UPS specs, you can read what kind of protections it has.
Completely depends on the battery size it has.
E.g the UPS i linked above, and with 300W load, it can keep your PC running for 19.6 mins.
Though, UPSes come in varying battery sizes. Standalone UPSes are up to 3kW (3000W). But server park UPSes are modular and expandable essentially infinitely.
Offline UPS will blare it's alarm like no other, when there is main power loss and PC runs off from battery power. So, when UPS has enough runtime for you to wake up, make it to the PC and shut it down, you'd be good using offline UPS as well.
True, but when one would be looking for online UPS, delta-conversion topology would be better than double-conversion topology due to the better efficiency.
Source:
https://www.eetimes.com/the-different-ty...stems/?_ga
True.
Depending on the needs, you either look for offline, line-interactive UPS, or online, double/delta-conversion UPS.
There are pros and cons for both;
Offline, line-interactive UPS
* Cheaper to buy.
* Cheaper to maintain.
* Lasts considerably longer.
* Quieter.
* More efficient.
* Shorter runtime (usually 5mins, but when load on UPS is small and UPS has big battery, then ~20mins or so).
Online, double/delta-conversion UPS
* Far more expensive to buy.
* More expensive to maintain.
* Lasts as long as the batteries does. (When failed batteries are replaced with new ones, then lifespan is essentially unlimited.)
* Loud.
* Low efficiency.
* Essentially unlimited runtime.
For online UPS, the batteries in it are in constant use and will wear out much faster. Due to that, online UPSes have several (dozens or even hundreds) of batteries. So that when one or two batteries fail, they can be replaced without interrupting the power source to the hardware. And battery replacement is done by the technician that you call on site. Online UPSes do not have user-serviceable batteries. And since batteries are in constant use, they need to be cooled and cooling of batteries via server fans is loud.
But main advantage of online UPS is, that power supply will not be interrupted no matter what.
These kinds of UPSes are used usually in server parks, where server can not loose power.
Offline UPS is used usually in home environment, since they are smaller, cheaper, quieter and can have user replaceable batteries (like the CyberPower UPS has i linked above). Also, they last a long time since battery in them is in use only when the supply of main power goes out and for the 5-20mins when you safely shut down the PC.
Now, if blackout lasts for few mins, offline UPS is more than enough, since when blackout appears, UPS switches to battery power. But when main power is re-established, UPS switches back to the main power and charges the battery to full again.
Tough part is, that we don't know how long of a blackouts you'd be getting. If it is more than 1h, then offline UPS can't keep the PC running in the mean time. For longer runtime, it is better to look towards gasoline/diesel powered generator, that supplies power during blackout.
so far so good!
3 hours ago I started the cloning of the 2T magnetic WD Blue drive from the sata bay to a 5T one touch Seagate USB3 drive which takes power from a USB socket on the PC, and that has now copied 1tB (using my notation, Linux gives this as 1TB), and is progressing.
and thus also should take about 6 hours.
thus so far it looks like the 10 hub is the culprit!
this is where buying the cheapest options is often a false economy, ie you end up paying more money.
generally speaking the more important something is the more money I will put for a higher quality item.
but I take into account all aspects, eg with cars in Bristol the bigger cars wont fit in the main parking bays, so a Tesla or a 4WD will be a hassle, as tricky to get out of the vehicle in town!
so far it seems that way.
there was a flash of light, so it might be lightning or something. although the power line is man made, the wrecking of it is wasnt man made! presumably thor!
anyway if it is the hub, then the insurance probably isnt any use because of the "excess" (ie the initial amount I have to pay myself on any claim)
ok, that is what confused me, as I expected it to halt on the current slide.
I probably have to ask in an assembly language forum! I will delay for the moment as I can only work on one project at a time. But I would like to eventually make a CD which boots directly and does a bit of stuff with the hardware. From your chart and what I did with 32 bit, I think the hardware will check if the first sector of the CD has a bootable signature, if yes it will load that into memory and start executing the code outside the signature. But I would need to know what facilities are around for the code, and what mode the CPU is in, probably 64 bit, also is the MMU all set up or partially set up or other. There was some word you used to describe the new boot environment versus old era.
we have a UK specific thing which is energy monitors from the electric and gas boards, which tell you your natural gas and electricity usage right now, where in the UK we have mains natural gas, which eg Germany and the US dont have, americans have to buy the gas canisters, and germans use oil tanks for heating.
but most UK houses have mains gas (methane or ethane, I forget which, from the North Sea oilfields) for central heating and cooking, electricity also for cooking, eg I have 2 natural gas hobs and 4 induction hobs. so with the power cut, no microwave, no oven, no induction hob, no PC tower but the laptop on its own battery, but I could cook with natural gas! but no lighter for that as it draws from the mains. luckily I had a box of matches!
no central heating also as the natural gas needs a pump!
anyway, at night when the solar panels are off, the energy monitor tells me the total power right now of the entire house. eg if I switch off a fluorescent light, within some seconds the power goes down a notch, then switch it on and it goes up a notch. I think ordinary use of my 2024 PC and the entire house uses less than 200 watts. with my 2010 PC it generally used 250 Watts. During the day, the house draws power from the solar, and the energy monitor shows the house net exporting to the grid so I dont know what the house is using. The UK brought in smart electricity and gas meters, where they send the electricity and gas usage directly to the supply companies using the mobile phone system, so they no longer need to send someone to read the meters. They then combined this with energy monitors.
they just send someone to read the water meters still.
after sunset, which here is after 9pm, could be 10pm, I'll see what it says. in the winter at this latitude the sun sets around 4pm, in the summer around 10pm. Maybe I'll upload a photo of it also.
my printer is in another room accessed by wireless! its a huge A3 printer so not viable to put it in this room!
I have an A3 scanner also, which is in this room, only powered on when used. eg its useful for say scanning an entire newspaper page. I have also a 7200 dpi 35mm film scanner, mostly for scanning Kodakchrome films taken by my parents.
ordinarily I think the entire house with the computer on is less than 200 Watts, but with some disk copying the fans come on like some kind of gale. maybe I'll check the energy monitor when that next happens, if I remember to!
are there any things which can go wrong with lead acid batteries to be cautious about?
that would be useful, I can then run to the other room with the computer and shut things down in an orderly fashion.
Quieter is a key criterion for me,
noisy computers gradually will drive me insane! I think not good for the ears also, as could cause partial deafness to the involved frequencies.
this is why I only use magnetic drives for long term storage, for work I use SSDs or flash drives, as totally silent.
eg the Samsung T9 and T7 ones, small fast silent!
magnetic drives are cheaper and larger and slower! and probably safer storage.
can you state the runtime maybe in joules?
its a long time since I did physics, but I think Watts x time = joules, so
eg if the computer uses 200 Watts, then 1 hour is 60 x 60 x 200 joules = 720000 joules.
the lengthy backups will just have the PC and the accessed external drives on. no scanners or loudspeakers.
the laptop will only be on if it is doing the backup.
loudness is the deal breaker!
it sounds like a quagmire! only viable for a business or organisation or institute,
it sounds like the only option for me.
have you thought about optical disks?
they offer good security and are undeletable. they’re also very affordable. in the UK, for example, a BDR costs around 56 pence for a 25Gig drive, which equals about £22.40 for a 1Terabyte capacity.
you could simply throw one into a river and it should work fine!
i own a BDR-X13EBK Pioneer optical drive that supports triple-layer disks up to 100GB, read/write. i purchased them from a seller in japan on ebay—factory sealed but second-hand.
it cost me 118.27 for 10, which is roughly £11.83 for a 100Gig drive, so about £118.27 for a 1TB drive. this isn’t as cost-effective as the BDR, but they’re rewritable.
i believe they support quad-layer 128GB disks, though they can only be written once.
i mainly use them to transfer tv shows—like rebroadcasts of popular programs—to blu rays, and occasionally for permanent backups of computer files.
Similar to other topics, further information can be found here:
https://www.safework.sa.gov.au/work...re...-batteries
Regarding the battery placement inside a UPS, it should be positioned with about 5cm of clearance around the unit for proper ventilation as specified in the UPS manual. For offline units, the main concern is overheating if the vents are blocked. Consumer-grade offline UPS models are considered safe.
On the Downloads page, under the "User's Manual" section, you can obtain the UPS manual beforehand:
https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product...#downloads
This helps you understand the nature of the device.
Additionally, the Videos tab offers several informative videos explaining what a UPS is, its functionality, common power issues, and even a product preview. You can view it here:
https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product...-uk#videos
For reference, the runtime chart of the UPS I mentioned earlier is available at:
https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product...time_chart
This chart shows the power consumption in watts only.