Question about AIO PC construction, cloud NAS integration, and adding a laptop component to the setup.
Question about AIO PC construction, cloud NAS integration, and adding a laptop component to the setup.
I'm facing a couple of challenges. First, I need to assist my mom in setting up her home office. She works in real estate and manages a lot of PDFs and online software. Whatever solution I suggest, I must be able to support her over the phone if issues arise. She's not very patient with hardware problems, and I'm located three states away.
My main concerns are:
- Her current 2-year-old Microsoft Surface laptop is making strange noises—like shorted electronics and popping sounds.
- The task manager shows it's using 80-88% memory (7.5 GB total), with high CPU, disk, and GPU usage.
- I heard the noise started when she was creating templates in one of her programs. It stopped after unplugging it, but now it comes back when charging or connected to a second monitor.
- Cooling fans helped temporarily, but the noise persisted. I suspect the second monitor might be causing strain on the laptop, possibly due to battery or fan issues.
I tried moving it under hers and plugging it into a second monitor, but the problem continued. After disconnecting the charger, it stopped for a while, then started again once reconnected. Eventually, I connected the charger back in, but the noise returned shortly after.
For now, I’m considering replacing the charger, though I’m unsure about the correct wattage. Also, her GPU temperature rises noticeably when using the laptop, which could indicate overheating.
She doesn’t have a backup computer, so I don’t want to open the laptop just to fix it, nor do I want someone else to handle it without proper tools. I’m also concerned about battery or connector problems, especially since she travels frequently and uses her device everywhere—even at the beach.
This setup is crucial for her work, and I want to ensure everything runs smoothly without interruptions.
SuperTigresss
06-10-2016, 07:19 PM #1Hello!
I'm facing a couple of challenges. First, I need to assist my mom in setting up her home office. She works in real estate and manages a lot of PDFs and online software. Whatever solution I suggest, I must be able to support her over the phone if issues arise. She's not very patient with hardware problems, and I'm located three states away.
My main concerns are:
- Her current 2-year-old Microsoft Surface laptop is making strange noises—like shorted electronics and popping sounds.
- The task manager shows it's using 80-88% memory (7.5 GB total), with high CPU, disk, and GPU usage.
- I heard the noise started when she was creating templates in one of her programs. It stopped after unplugging it, but now it comes back when charging or connected to a second monitor.
- Cooling fans helped temporarily, but the noise persisted. I suspect the second monitor might be causing strain on the laptop, possibly due to battery or fan issues.
I tried moving it under hers and plugging it into a second monitor, but the problem continued. After disconnecting the charger, it stopped for a while, then started again once reconnected. Eventually, I connected the charger back in, but the noise returned shortly after.
For now, I’m considering replacing the charger, though I’m unsure about the correct wattage. Also, her GPU temperature rises noticeably when using the laptop, which could indicate overheating.
She doesn’t have a backup computer, so I don’t want to open the laptop just to fix it, nor do I want someone else to handle it without proper tools. I’m also concerned about battery or connector problems, especially since she travels frequently and uses her device everywhere—even at the beach.
This setup is crucial for her work, and I want to ensure everything runs smoothly without interruptions.
Nightrangertwf
06-25-2016, 04:50 PM #2Then this would connect to thermals. When the device reaches a certain level of warmth, the sound (possibly coil whine or something similar) begins. However, with laptops, there are batteries inside, and it might be caused by a damaged battery. Lithium-ion batteries, when harmed, produce cracking and hissing sounds during charging, which can eventually result in a loud explosion. Lead-acid batteries (like car batteries) also generate noises while charging, but those are typical for those types. I don't believe a laptop uses a lead-acid battery. You might attempt to capture a recording of the noise and share it online, such as on YouTube.
In laptops (general PCs), only three sources of noise are possible.
1. Fans
2. HDD
3. Coil whine
For this particular laptop, the sound seems to come from a faulty fan bearing or another internal fan problem, which I believe is the most likely cause. This is because I suspect the device hasn’t undergone any maintenance over its lifetime (such as internal cleaning), and the humidity in Florida can lead to unusual behavior.
HDDs produce read/write sounds, so if the laptop uses one, it should be considered too. If not, this possibility can be dismissed.
Coil whine is typically associated with desktop PCs or components like the PSU, GPU, or motherboard. Laptops do have these parts, making coil whine a plausible source as well.
To identify the exact origin, you should remove the back plastic cover and power on the laptop gently, observing the noise location. Avoid touching it while it’s running. You might need to reset it completely.
#2
This refers to a specialized area of PC construction—building all-in-one systems isn’t feasible outside professional settings. A fully integrated PC (AIO) is essentially a monitor built into the computer. The Apple iMac serves as a classic example.
If you’re serious about creating one, it’s best to purchase a ready-made model.
Top AIO PCs:
https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-all...I6STznyr7F
For those interested in DIY, you’ll need expertise in the monitor’s internal components. You’d have to connect the motherboard to the monitor, add additional hardware (GPU, RAM, SSD, cooling systems), and fit everything inside the monitor case. The result could resemble a CRT monitor—large and heavy, especially with standard mini-ITX boards.
A step further from AIOs are mini PCs, which offer more power and portability compared to full monitors (since you don’t need to transport a separate display). More details:
https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-win...I6STznyr7F
Larger mini PCs provide better performance and flexibility, as they can accommodate various components. They’re more compact than AIOs and allow easier component swapping (greater freedom compared to laptops or monitors).
These options let you replace parts individually, similar to desktop builds, though performance is limited by the case size and cooling setup.
If you decide on one of these paths, we can explore your choice in detail. With SFF/HTPC configurations, we can assist further.
I would recommend no.
HDD is mainly suited for large-scale data storage. Its read/write speeds are significantly slower than modern alternatives like 2.5" SATA SSDs and M.2 NVMe PCI-E SSDs.
For smaller files, a M.2 NVMe PCI-E SSD is a better option—it can store the operating system and other data quickly.
IllusoryUser8
06-25-2016, 07:05 PM #3This was a lengthy explanation.
In laptops (general PCs), only three sources of noise are possible.
1. Fans
2. HDD
3. Coil whine
For this particular laptop, the sound seems to come from a faulty fan bearing or another internal fan problem, which I believe is the most likely cause. This is because I suspect the device hasn’t undergone any maintenance over its lifetime (such as internal cleaning), and the humidity in Florida can lead to unusual behavior.
HDDs produce read/write sounds, so if the laptop uses one, it should be considered too. If not, this possibility can be dismissed.
Coil whine is typically associated with desktop PCs or components like the PSU, GPU, or motherboard. Laptops do have these parts, making coil whine a plausible source as well.
To identify the exact origin, you should remove the back plastic cover and power on the laptop gently, observing the noise location. Avoid touching it while it’s running. You might need to reset it completely.
#2
This refers to a specialized area of PC construction—building all-in-one systems isn’t feasible outside professional settings. A fully integrated PC (AIO) is essentially a monitor built into the computer. The Apple iMac serves as a classic example.
If you’re serious about creating one, it’s best to purchase a ready-made model.
Top AIO PCs:
https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-all...I6STznyr7F
For those interested in DIY, you’ll need expertise in the monitor’s internal components. You’d have to connect the motherboard to the monitor, add additional hardware (GPU, RAM, SSD, cooling systems), and fit everything inside the monitor case. The result could resemble a CRT monitor—large and heavy, especially with standard mini-ITX boards.
A step further from AIOs are mini PCs, which offer more power and portability compared to full monitors (since you don’t need to transport a separate display). More details:
https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-win...I6STznyr7F
Larger mini PCs provide better performance and flexibility, as they can accommodate various components. They’re more compact than AIOs and allow easier component swapping (greater freedom compared to laptops or monitors).
These options let you replace parts individually, similar to desktop builds, though performance is limited by the case size and cooling setup.
If you decide on one of these paths, we can explore your choice in detail. With SFF/HTPC configurations, we can assist further.
I would recommend no.
HDD is mainly suited for large-scale data storage. Its read/write speeds are significantly slower than modern alternatives like 2.5" SATA SSDs and M.2 NVMe PCI-E SSDs.
For smaller files, a M.2 NVMe PCI-E SSD is a better option—it can store the operating system and other data quickly.
I believe this laptop doesn’t have an HDD—I haven’t heard any disk sounds before. Coming from an auto and aircraft mechanic background, I’m familiar with bearing and electrical noises. The sound isn’t like a broken bearing or typical fan noise; it only occurs when the charger is connected and produces a popping, vinyl-like noise. I’m very sensitive to electrical whine, even if I can’t always hear it, which makes it easy for me to identify. For instance, my mom’s phone plugged into a USB port gives her a lot of stress, but using an adapter and a standard outlet removes the noise completely. The sound doesn’t appear instantly when plugging in the charger; it develops over a few minutes.
I’d really appreciate the chance to open it up, though it’s her only computer otherwise.
That sounds ideal. I used the Samsung 970 EVO Plus M.2 NVMe with a Seagate BaraCuda 2TB HDD 3.5" SATA in my last build—it performed very well.
I’m planning to check out the AIO PC list and possibly get a budget option for now. I thought it was a specialized build but hoped someone might have listed it. Probably, if I decide to build, I’ll opt for a mini tower.
It would be great if I could receive the components within a few days, since we’re leaving soon. I might need to assemble it myself and bring it over to her.
If we proceed with building, the tower should be compact. I can mount it on the side of her desk, but a thin rectangular shape would work best. I’ve looked up some cases—my build includes a fractal meshify, so I pulled those up—but Node 202 isn’t available, so I’m unsure about the price, though the ridge is around $130...
I’d prefer something under $100 if possible.
Next, we should consider whether a mini-ITX or micro-ATX motherboard would be better. I spent months researching before building mine, but I don’t have time right now. My current machine is for gaming and she doesn’t need much power.
Are you familiar with NAS systems?
THANK YOU very much for your response!
Megan
Here’s the revised version at the same length and structure:
I believe this laptop doesn’t have an HDD—I haven’t heard any disk sounds before. Coming from an auto and aircraft mechanic background, I’m familiar with bearing and electrical noises. The sound isn’t like a broken bearing or typical fan noise; it only occurs when the charger is connected and produces a popping, vinyl-like noise. I’m very sensitive to electrical whine, even if I can’t always hear it, which makes it easy for me to identify. For instance, my mom’s phone plugged into a USB port gives her a lot of stress, but using an adapter and a standard outlet removes the noise completely. The sound doesn’t appear instantly when plugging in the charger; it develops over a few minutes.
I’d really appreciate the chance to open it up, though it’s her only computer otherwise.
That sounds ideal. I used the Samsung 970 EVO Plus M.2 NVMe with a Seagate BaraCuda 2TB HDD 3.5" SATA in my last build—it performed very well.
I’m planning to check out the AIO PC list and possibly get a budget option for now. I thought it was a specialized build but hoped someone might have listed it. Probably, if I decide to build, I’ll opt for a mini tower.
It would be great if I could receive the components within a few days, since we’re leaving soon. I might need to assemble it myself and bring it over to her.
If we proceed with building, the tower should be compact. I can mount it on the side of her desk, but a thin rectangular shape would work best. I’ve looked up some cases—my build includes a fractal meshify, so I pulled those up—but Node 202 isn’t available, so I’m unsure about the price, though the ridge is around $130...
I’d prefer something under $100 if possible.
Next, we should consider whether a mini-ITX or micro-ATX motherboard would be better. I spent months researching before building mine, but I don’t have time right now. My current machine is for gaming and she doesn’t need much power.
Are you familiar with NAS systems?
THANK YOU very much for your response!
Megan
I can almost be sure it won’t work. Luckily, because all her software is web-based, most documents are already saved in her emails or programs.
I’m planning to make a backup today – thanks for the reminder!
Lopez_Chamalow
06-26-2016, 06:44 AM #6The solution is to purchase or set up another computer before using the laptop!
I can almost be sure it won’t work. Luckily, because all her software is web-based, most documents are already saved in her emails or programs.
I’m planning to make a backup today – thanks for the reminder!
Though, with laptops, they have batteries in it and it could be noise from damaged battery. Lithium-ion batteries, when damaged, start to make cracking and hissing noises when charged. Eventually leading to a "BOOM".
Lead-acid batteries (e.g car battery) also make noises (usually bubbling ones) when charged, but those are normal for those batteries. Also, i don't think that laptop would have lead-acid battery in it.
You could try to record a vid of the noise and upload it to the net (e.g Youtube) and share the vid with us. Since without actually hearing the noise, it is a wild goose chase of what it may be.
👍
In our builds we have M.2 paired with SATA SSD. E.g;
Skylake build - 970 Evo Plus 2TB (OS) + 870 Evo 2TB (data).
Haswell build - 980 1TB (OS) + 870 Evo 2TB (data).
I've phased out all HDDs from our builds.
(Full specs with pics in my sig.)
Well, component selection alone takes a week or two, especially when you have to consider dimension clearances and component availability.
Then, the hardest part - assembly. Mini-ITX builds are the worst to assemble due to their compact size. I actually doesn't suggest building one for average user, since often than not, clearances will be an issue, without solid groundwork in component choosing. And even then, there can be aspects that one didn't consider but show itself during assembly.
Here is the list of smallest min-ITX cases out there,
pcpp:
https://pcpartpicker.com/forums/topic/55...machinebox
List should be, more-or-less, up-to-the-date. Still, it gives nice selection of cases. Though, case availability could be major issue.
Best course of action of building any such mini-ITX build, is:
1st to buy the PC case.
And then, once you have the case, buy the components that fit into there.
Doing it vice-versa, e.g getting everything at once or leaving PC case as last one, usually leads into clearance issues.
So, pick the PC case 1st. And we can go from there, if you want to experience the ordeal of building mini-ITX build, that is.
If idea is small footprint, then mini-ITX MoBo would be only option.
As of how the build could look like, here's a guideline:
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU:
AMD Ryzen 5 8500G 4.1 GHz 6-Core Processor
($142.97 @ Amazon)
Motherboard:
ASRock B650I Lightning Wifi Mini ITX AM5 Motherboard
($199.99 @ Newegg)
Memory:
Patriot Signature Line 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-4800 CL40 Memory
($68.98 @ Amazon)
Storage:
Samsung 990 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
($99.99 @ Amazon)
Total:
$511.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by
PCPartPicker
2025-03-28 13:44 EDT-0400
Note: build is guideline and misses PC case and PSU. Those must be selected before the rest of the components. 1st the PC case and then the PSU.
Few words;
One idea would be the one above, where CPU is R5 8500G APU. This build doesn't need dedicated GPU and monitor hooks to MoBo. CPU cooler is included. RAM is a bit more, 32GB in total, but just in case the office build needs it. SSD is M.2 PCI-E 4.0 one and SSD slots onto MoBo. Whereby entire build is just as big as mini-ITX MoBo is. MoBo also has 2nd M.2 slot at the back side of it.
This would give build very small footprint. PSU wise, 550W unit is more than enough. Even 300W unit could do, if no dedicated GPU is used.
Again, PSU depends on PC case choosed. Could be where you can't use SFX PSU (let alone ATX PSU), but instead have to use Flex-ATX PSU, since PC case is that small. And flex-ATX PSUs doesn't go high wattage capacity wise.
Nope. NAS is outside of my ballpark. However, USAFRet is our resident expert in NAS and anything to do with data backups.
So, you can discuss that part with him.
xXDinklemanXx
06-27-2016, 03:01 PM #7This then would relate to thermals. Whereby when device gets to certain degree of hotness, the noise (most likely coil whine or similar), starts.
Though, with laptops, they have batteries in it and it could be noise from damaged battery. Lithium-ion batteries, when damaged, start to make cracking and hissing noises when charged. Eventually leading to a "BOOM".
Lead-acid batteries (e.g car battery) also make noises (usually bubbling ones) when charged, but those are normal for those batteries. Also, i don't think that laptop would have lead-acid battery in it.
You could try to record a vid of the noise and upload it to the net (e.g Youtube) and share the vid with us. Since without actually hearing the noise, it is a wild goose chase of what it may be.
👍
In our builds we have M.2 paired with SATA SSD. E.g;
Skylake build - 970 Evo Plus 2TB (OS) + 870 Evo 2TB (data).
Haswell build - 980 1TB (OS) + 870 Evo 2TB (data).
I've phased out all HDDs from our builds.
(Full specs with pics in my sig.)
Well, component selection alone takes a week or two, especially when you have to consider dimension clearances and component availability.
Then, the hardest part - assembly. Mini-ITX builds are the worst to assemble due to their compact size. I actually doesn't suggest building one for average user, since often than not, clearances will be an issue, without solid groundwork in component choosing. And even then, there can be aspects that one didn't consider but show itself during assembly.
Here is the list of smallest min-ITX cases out there,
pcpp:
https://pcpartpicker.com/forums/topic/55...machinebox
List should be, more-or-less, up-to-the-date. Still, it gives nice selection of cases. Though, case availability could be major issue.
Best course of action of building any such mini-ITX build, is:
1st to buy the PC case.
And then, once you have the case, buy the components that fit into there.
Doing it vice-versa, e.g getting everything at once or leaving PC case as last one, usually leads into clearance issues.
So, pick the PC case 1st. And we can go from there, if you want to experience the ordeal of building mini-ITX build, that is.
If idea is small footprint, then mini-ITX MoBo would be only option.
As of how the build could look like, here's a guideline:
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU:
AMD Ryzen 5 8500G 4.1 GHz 6-Core Processor
($142.97 @ Amazon)
Motherboard:
ASRock B650I Lightning Wifi Mini ITX AM5 Motherboard
($199.99 @ Newegg)
Memory:
Patriot Signature Line 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-4800 CL40 Memory
($68.98 @ Amazon)
Storage:
Samsung 990 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive
($99.99 @ Amazon)
Total:
$511.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by
PCPartPicker
2025-03-28 13:44 EDT-0400
Note: build is guideline and misses PC case and PSU. Those must be selected before the rest of the components. 1st the PC case and then the PSU.
Few words;
One idea would be the one above, where CPU is R5 8500G APU. This build doesn't need dedicated GPU and monitor hooks to MoBo. CPU cooler is included. RAM is a bit more, 32GB in total, but just in case the office build needs it. SSD is M.2 PCI-E 4.0 one and SSD slots onto MoBo. Whereby entire build is just as big as mini-ITX MoBo is. MoBo also has 2nd M.2 slot at the back side of it.
This would give build very small footprint. PSU wise, 550W unit is more than enough. Even 300W unit could do, if no dedicated GPU is used.
Again, PSU depends on PC case choosed. Could be where you can't use SFX PSU (let alone ATX PSU), but instead have to use Flex-ATX PSU, since PC case is that small. And flex-ATX PSUs doesn't go high wattage capacity wise.
Nope. NAS is outside of my ballpark. However, USAFRet is our resident expert in NAS and anything to do with data backups.
So, you can discuss that part with him.
I'm glad he read my question then!
I'm quite familiar with tolerance-specific building. Aircraft repair is one of the most detail-oriented and tolerance-focused areas there is. Good point about getting the case first. Luckily I didn't run into any of those problems with my ATX build, but I also did a lot of research beforehand. I'll open that build in pcpicker to see what else we can do. I like the high RAM... but again, I use my computer much more than she does. I'll probably stick with the higher PSU. Plus, gold – I prefer having plenty of power available rather than running short.
Thanks again!
XxgiantSwagxX
07-01-2016, 02:26 AM #8Yeahhhhh The issue with the battery failing is what I've been considering. I was just wondering if it could be that. This laptop comes with an integrated battery, so I can't even take it out and replace it without opening everything. She doesn't leave the computer plugged in all the time; usually she only charges it when it's low, then closes it, plugs it in, and unplugs it to use for about 20-30 minutes. It also charges overnight, especially if she knows she won't be home that morning and needs to take it with her. It has a very long battery life, but she uses it most of the day and it's two years old. None of these components are designed to last forever.
I'm glad he read my question then!
I'm quite familiar with tolerance-specific building. Aircraft repair is one of the most detail-oriented and tolerance-focused areas there is. Good point about getting the case first. Luckily I didn't run into any of those problems with my ATX build, but I also did a lot of research beforehand. I'll open that build in pcpicker to see what else we can do. I like the high RAM... but again, I use my computer much more than she does. I'll probably stick with the higher PSU. Plus, gold – I prefer having plenty of power available rather than running short.
Thanks again!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence
Concerning RAM, whether high capacity or large heatsinks, the focus seems to be more on aesthetics than performance. I don't believe it matters if the RAM has unusual stains or not.
Regarding storage size, having more is generally preferable. However, going beyond what's necessary—like 64GB for everyday use—can be unnecessary. Current gaming setups usually do fine with 16GB, and even 32GB works well for recent AAA games. For office configurations, 8 to 16GB should suffice. In general builds, I've chosen 32GB just in case of bloatware that might consume significant memory. (This could be relevant for today's laptops.)
Excessive power provisioning isn't harmful when you have 100W or 200W more. I also recommend a 100W to 200W surplus PSU, just as a precaution. However, adding more than 300W is pointless and reduces the PSU's efficiency. Since maximum load on a build typically reaches around 200W while a 1kW unit is purchased, the PSU only operates at about 20% capacity. This lowers efficiency because PSUs perform best when loaded between 50% to 80% of their rated power.
Are you referring to PSU efficiency ratings? If so, this doesn't necessarily indicate quality. It simply means the PSU is reasonably efficient, but overall build quality can be poor—especially if you opt for cheaper models.
From an efficiency standpoint:
80+ Gold PSUs are currently common. ~15 years ago, these were the standard. Back then, most units were 80+ Bronze.
80+ Silver units were rare a long time ago. Then, very few offered 80+ Silver today (except for those with misleading labels like 85+ Silver or 90+ Gold).
80+ Platinum units are becoming more popular. There are decent options in this range, and some high-performance SFX PSUs are available.
80+ Titanium offers the highest efficiency among these options. However, efficiency alone doesn't guarantee a top-tier PSU. Some models in this category may still fall short (like the Silverstone 80+ Titanium unit I mentioned). Most 80+ Titanium units are reliable, though.
Even with efficient PSUs, it's wise to research and review them before purchasing. If there are no reviews available, it's unlikely you'll make an informed decision.
JishyCraft
07-01-2016, 09:24 AM #9Planned obsolescence is unfortunately a common practice these days. For those wanting more information, here are some references:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planned_obsolescence
Concerning RAM, whether high capacity or large heatsinks, the focus seems to be more on aesthetics than performance. I don't believe it matters if the RAM has unusual stains or not.
Regarding storage size, having more is generally preferable. However, going beyond what's necessary—like 64GB for everyday use—can be unnecessary. Current gaming setups usually do fine with 16GB, and even 32GB works well for recent AAA games. For office configurations, 8 to 16GB should suffice. In general builds, I've chosen 32GB just in case of bloatware that might consume significant memory. (This could be relevant for today's laptops.)
Excessive power provisioning isn't harmful when you have 100W or 200W more. I also recommend a 100W to 200W surplus PSU, just as a precaution. However, adding more than 300W is pointless and reduces the PSU's efficiency. Since maximum load on a build typically reaches around 200W while a 1kW unit is purchased, the PSU only operates at about 20% capacity. This lowers efficiency because PSUs perform best when loaded between 50% to 80% of their rated power.
Are you referring to PSU efficiency ratings? If so, this doesn't necessarily indicate quality. It simply means the PSU is reasonably efficient, but overall build quality can be poor—especially if you opt for cheaper models.
From an efficiency standpoint:
80+ Gold PSUs are currently common. ~15 years ago, these were the standard. Back then, most units were 80+ Bronze.
80+ Silver units were rare a long time ago. Then, very few offered 80+ Silver today (except for those with misleading labels like 85+ Silver or 90+ Gold).
80+ Platinum units are becoming more popular. There are decent options in this range, and some high-performance SFX PSUs are available.
80+ Titanium offers the highest efficiency among these options. However, efficiency alone doesn't guarantee a top-tier PSU. Some models in this category may still fall short (like the Silverstone 80+ Titanium unit I mentioned). Most 80+ Titanium units are reliable, though.
Even with efficient PSUs, it's wise to research and review them before purchasing. If there are no reviews available, it's unlikely you'll make an informed decision.
I was thinking about 80+gold, and I did a corsair. I prefer having a bit of wattage headroom that isn't excessive. It makes sense to ensure components operate as efficiently as possible.
Now it's just checking what options are available! With the new GPU releases, many things seem more challenging to find or costlier!
Thanks for your assistance!
pvpzkiller4791
07-04-2016, 11:32 AM #10High capacity is definitely a factor. Her RAM seems to be a constraint at the moment. Web programs consume a significant amount of memory.
I was thinking about 80+gold, and I did a corsair. I prefer having a bit of wattage headroom that isn't excessive. It makes sense to ensure components operate as efficiently as possible.
Now it's just checking what options are available! With the new GPU releases, many things seem more challenging to find or costlier!
Thanks for your assistance!