PC starts up yet remains invisible on the screen, and input devices are unresponsive.
PC starts up yet remains invisible on the screen, and input devices are unresponsive.
Attempting to reset the CMOS involves clearing the chip first on the motherboard, where a coin cell battery compartment should include a jumper connector next to it. The traditional method used a standard jumper tab made of metal and plastic to connect the pins temporarily. Today, simply use a flathead screwdriver to connect the pins for about 20 seconds. This approach is economical and saves costs. Using the same motherboard is what I was considering. Is it still covered under warranty? Try sending it back via RMA if your computer won’t power on. For LGA 1700 boards, I’m not familiar with them right away—researching might help. Other options could be a lower-tier model or an upgrade. Have you noticed any restrictions with the board besides it not starting now? That would make you regret choosing a different one. If not, sticking with the same board remains the best choice. Switching boards would likely increase costs and add complexity. This is just my perspective—seems reasonable to me.
Once I first installed the new PSU, the LEDs remained on. After clearing the CMOS and reattaching the GPU, RAM, and CPU cooler, they disappeared. I didn’t have any issues with the motherboard before, so it makes sense to use the same one now. I’m located in the US, but the closest microcenter is more than 3 hours away.
That might not be a bad option, considering the time you could spend troubleshooting. Basically a day long tech pilgrimage.
The Leds blinking on though not consistently is the same thing that occurred with the old power supply. Are all the right connectors are seated? Check the
manual
- 24 pin mobo connector, cpu connector, gpu pci-e connector.
If you're sure that layout is right, well, the problem could be the cpu, gpu, memory or mobo. Already tried removing the drive altogether and it still doesn't boot, so that's the only thing that's been eliminated. Try that again just to double check.
That makes switching mobo the second step in troubleshooting. The point of microcenter is, they'll have the variety of parts to try in one place so, getting there is less time than waiting for the mobo to arrive mail order, since it's a bit of a risk that it's the only problem.
But considering the actions of the local repair shop, and the pc failed shortly after you brought it back and they didn't spot the power supply right away, or chose not to act, I dunno I don't see an easy risk free path here.
You could take it back to them and say you've switched the power supply I suppose but that's just making their life easier and they get to charge you maybe more parts and labor to troubleshoot this now.
I mean I'd persevere with troubleshooting particularly if you can rma the board under warranty - though that could take longer to turn around and ship you a fresh one.
Is there anyone else around at all that could help? Any other local more friendly shops, with good reviews that would let you try a few parts?
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The shop decided to accept the return without extra cost because it's still covered under warranty, so I'll begin there. If they begin adding fees, I'll either look for another option or keep working on fixing the issue myself.
This location had positive feedback but hasn't impressed me much yet. As long as I'm not being charged more, I'll try to maximize the value from my current investment.
So they're the ones who designed you a PC with a tier F PSU? Well, it seems the new PSU should help avoid this issue again. The main reason I'm seeking further assistance is that it could be more than just the motherboard—after that comes the CPU and RAM.
Avoiding purchases without checking the specifications is crucial. Steer clear of listings that only mention 1TB NVMe or a 650W gold power supply without details, and don’t buy a PC without knowing its specs upfront. Looking back, opting for a full refund and exploring alternatives or building from scratch might have been wiser. Still, it’s a complicated route with its own challenges.
Hopefully, you’ll end up with a stable system that doesn’t fail unexpectedly. Now you have a clear idea of what to look for or what to skip. Building a machine from parts still offers some benefits.
You can often find comparable specs in pre-built units at lower costs, giving you full control over component selection. Knowing the system inside out helps you quickly identify problems if they arise. Tracking reviews can also help you avoid many common issues. A bit of technical jargon decoding is useful, but if you're after a budget-friendly PC, it's definitely worth considering.
Last time I bought a pre-built unit about 15 years ago, it didn’t really support my upgrade needs because the case was somewhat proprietary and didn’t fit standard ATX parts. That forced me to start from scratch. Since then, I’ve opted for swapping out the CPU, motherboard, and RAM, upgraded my core system for around £200 during a Ryzen downturn, and now have a solid tier PSU.
That should last about ten years. You can install any GPU you like, so your future upgrades are flexible. Just need to replace the drive occasionally, reuse the case from ten years ago, and you’ll have a new PC for around £300. All my old games still work perfectly.
My previous PC cost £300 too, built from parts, and ran for nearly a decade. But if everyone builds as tightly as I did, it might have drained the industry. Just a few tweaks with extra storage drives along the way. Not a complaint about value for money—just enough power for gaming now.