PC starts up yet remains invisible on the screen, and input devices are unresponsive.
PC starts up yet remains invisible on the screen, and input devices are unresponsive.
Windows 10 on my PC stopped working after a corruption incident. I took it to a repair shop for data backup and a new installation. When I brought it home, nothing displayed and both the mouse and keyboard stopped functioning. After reattaching the SSD by plugging and unplugging the cords, the problem seemed fixed. I put it to sleep and tried again, but the same issues persisted. I repeated the process without success. The case fans and lights are working, yet nothing appears connected. The mouse and keyboard on another device function properly.
Hello, here are the specifications:
CPU cooler, motherboard, RAM, SSD/HDD, GPU, PSU, chassis, OS, monitor.
Include details about the power supply age, make, model, BIOS version, ram kit dimms count.
Windows might crash due to disk errors—failing disks can prevent a PC from starting up.
You can try removing the disk and turning on the PC to see if the POST screen appears or if pressing DEL works.
If that happens, it’s likely the disk is faulty.
Your question also asks about how a repair shop might install Windows on a failing drive without noticing any issues.
CPU: Intel Core i5-12400F
CPU Cooler: Thermalight Peerless Assassin 120 SE
Motherboard: ASRock B660M PRO RS LGA 1700 Intel Micro ATX
Ram: Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB
SSD: Team Group T-FORCE VULCAN Z 1TB
GPU: ASRock Radeon RX 6600 Challenger
PSU: Thermaltake Smart 700W
Chassis: DIYPC ARGB-Q3-W
OS: Windows 10
Monitor: Spectre Curved 24-inch
All components were purchased new in August 2023.
The motherboard features four DDR4 DIMM slots.
BIOS version is AMI UEFI Legal.
For reference, the problem began when I disconnected the HDMI cable linking the PC to my TV and replaced it with the one for the monitor. Once the change was made, the screen remained blank, and the PC failed to boot, displaying only the BIOS interface.
The following day, I brought it to a repair shop, who diagnosed the issue as a corrupted Windows installation. They suggested backing up my data and reinstalling a fresh Windows version. I followed their advice, restored everything, but the monitor still wouldn’t appear, and the keyboard wouldn’t turn on.
I searched online and found that disconnecting the SSD connections and reattaching them resolved the problem. However, after putting the PC to sleep briefly and returning, the same issue resurfaced.
I intend to contact the repair service again, though they’re closed for the weekend.
But right now can I just power down, cut the mains, unplug the SSD, take it out and check if the PC starts?
Unplugging the cable linking the PC to the TV... what's the point?
Swapping it for the monitor cable – why did we change it?
Didn't just swap them back and fix the issue?
The Windows was broken, it seems. It looks more like an observation than a diagnosis. How did it get corrupted? They didn’t mention it. You said Windows won’t boot, they confirmed it was corrupted. Maybe that’s the case.
Have you ever tried to reinstall or fix Windows before?
If it doesn’t boot three times and you have to restart, the next attempt will likely be an auto-repair.
It usually doesn’t work, though. Most people can install Windows again. There’s a clean installation guide on the forum. You’d need a USB drive to make the installation media.
They backed up your data? How? Did they give you a drive with your files saved?
Well, guess it should be neatly placed on the 'newly installed Windows' drive. It seems like PC doesn’t recognize it at all – they just charged you for it. That’s not fair.
You can’t log into Windows to load your data without creating a user account, and they can’t create one unless they log in with yours. Maybe some data is readable from the drive on another computer, but where exactly is the saved information?
I don’t know many repair shops that handle customer data because they assume the owner is responsible for backups, records, and license keys.
This whole situation isn’t going well. What were you charged for?
I unplugged the SSD and attempted to power it back on. The fans and lights activated, but there was no response from the keyboard or monitor—the screen didn’t even appear without a signal. Swapping the HDMI cable happened because I play a game with a friend and prefer using the TV, while I also use the PC for solo gaming. After the problems began, I tried different cables to rule out the hardware issue, but all failed to resolve the problem, even when reconnecting to the TV that was showing the PC.
I’m familiar with performing a clean install of Windows, but I wanted to confirm it wasn’t the main cause since I hoped it wouldn’t be necessary. When they advised reinstalling due to data loss, they offered to transfer the backup after installation, which I agreed to. I also tried initiating the auto-repair before bringing it in, but it didn’t work.
The base fee was around one hundred fifty, plus an additional charge for data transfer—something I could have handled myself, but I didn’t want to complicate things further. Once I logged in, most of my important files were intact (save files and mod folders), though not everything. They mentioned I could return it free of charge within a week if issues persisted, which I’m planning to do if I can’t fix it on my own.
Additionally, the red lights near the DRAM and CPU labels on the motherboard remained lit. After removing and reinserting everything, the CPU issue seemed resolved, but the DRAM light stayed on.
Consider giving the GPU a new seat. The device's relocation raises the chance of components shifting out of place, especially under transport stress, which might cause the CPU to dislodge from its socket and potentially damage contact pins. It might also help to gently remove the cooler before moving it, as excessive force could warp the pins. Checking the sockets one at a time while power is off could reveal bent pins, indicating another issue during return. Switching HDMI cables shouldn't be the cause, but ensure the PC was unplugged from mains during removal. It's wise to avoid any electrical interference in such procedures. The main concern seems to be stability rather than a direct power-related fault. If the problem persists after inspection, the power supply unit might need closer examination.
I checked the pins after reinstalling the CPU and everything seemed normal. I also reinserted the GPU and RAM, but I plan to try one at a time next. I examined the SSD connectors and didn’t notice anything unusual, though I’m still unsure what to look for. Here’s the exact PSU I have: https://a.co/d/8Alhwkg
Trying to pinpoint the precise power supply model remains challenging even with the complete label on Spl's tier list. It seems it could be a white-label unit, as indicated by the notes: 'Black casing, white sticker. Unknown number of suppliers for this unit. Versions that have been tested have malfunctioning OCP, OPP, and SCP.' - Tier F.
Grok was asked to verify, and the response stated:
'The Thermaltake Smart 700W 80+ White Certified PSU (model PS-SPD-0700NPCWUS-W) is a budget-focused, non-modular unit from around 2015–2018, featuring a basic group-regulated design with a single +12V rail and active PFC. It's affordable but comes with known drawbacks such as increased ripple/noise under load, average protection levels (OPP/OCP/UVP/OVP present but not consistently strong), and possible coil whine or fan noise.'
According to Sir Pumpkin's PSU Tier List (the popular cultists.network reference, last updated around 17.0g in late 2023, still useful in 2025 with minor community adjustments), this model fits into:
Tier E (Avoid)
for white-label Smart series (430–700W). This category includes units lacking sufficient testing data, using outdated layouts, or having confirmed reliability issues—particularly problematic for demanding applications like gaming or high-current setups. SPL's tier structure is designed this way to help users quickly assess suitability:
Tier
Recommendation
Key Characteristics/Use Cases
A
Premium choice
Advanced full ZVS/DC-DC architecture, minimal ripple (<50mV), OTP <200°C; suited for 4090/7950X configurations.
B
Moderate recommendation
Combines ZVS primary with DC-DC secondary, robust protections; works well with 4070 Ti/7800X3D.
C
Budget-friendly option
Basic regulation, low ripple (<100mV); appropriate for 3060/5600X in office or gaming contexts.
D
Minimal power only
Limited safeguards; suitable for iGPU or basic office use without discrete graphics.
E
Avoid
Unreliable design, inadequate testing, or unproven performance; poses failure risks under stress.
F
Immediate replacement needed
High risk (e.g., fire hazard), not recommended. Some 2025 updates even reclassify similar white-label Smart models as Tier F due to age and missing modern standards like ATX 3.0/PCIe 5.0, though SPL still labels it E as 'speculative low' based on community feedback. Reddit and forum discussions support this view: inexpensive ($50–60) and functional only for very low-power setups (<300W total draw), like basic office PCs. However, it's a potential fire risk with modern GPUs (e.g., RTX 30/40-series). If you're constructing or upgrading, consider swapping to at least Tier C such as Corsair CX650M ($60) or EVGA 600 GD ($50) for better assurance.'
Additional notes: The original issue of power cable swaps causing anomalies was noted early on. A $150 repair expense might have been better invested in a cheaper Tier A PSU from the list, which could easily be found at tier A. If CPU pins are intact, it's a sign of potential damage—possibly to the motherboard or GPU. Check for bent pins, damaged RAM, GPU, or SSD. If components appear intact, replacing the PSU is advisable. Visually inspect connectors, RAM, GPU, and SSD for any signs of wear. A fresh power supply would likely resolve the problem quickly if the issue stems from a faulty unit.'
Would it make sense to revisit the shop? Might they test it using another PSU they possess and find out what happens? Also, do you have any suggestions for a PSU that fits my current setup? When I assembled it, I had a more limited budget but can now invest in better quality.
Just checking if you're comfortable with the price and the overall package. I think they might attempt another PSU, but I'm not sure if they'll do it for just $150 unless it's still the main issue. I'm uncertain about the details of that $150 week-long agreement. If there are any other problems with the system later on, like a mobile component, that would add extra costs. Right now, it's unclear which part is the real problem—possibly the motherboard, GPU, or CPU. There are several power supply options to consider for your setup; a 650W tier A should work, but it depends on how you intend to upgrade in the future. A good quality PSU usually comes with a 10-year warranty, so choosing an 850W unit would keep your options open for a larger GPU and CPU later, while a 650W one would limit you to mid-range components unless you buy another PSU. This part needs some thought to ensure you get good value. For simplicity, a Tier C like the Corsair CX650M (around $60) or EVGA 600 GD (about $50) could give you peace of mind. Usually I avoid recommending Tier C, but this approach helps keep your current build viable for future upgrades. It's not the best value, but it works.