PC starts up yet remains invisible on the screen, and input devices are unresponsive.
PC starts up yet remains invisible on the screen, and input devices are unresponsive.
I’d rather not spend too much time trying to decide which components to replace myself because it’s so time-consuming. If I can let them handle it, it would be worth the cost for me.
The PSU suggestion was also helpful. My previous setup was fine for my needs, so a C tier PSU should suffice now, particularly if what I had was a F tier model.
I believe the store will have its own perspective on the power supplies they carry, and the main issue is that the power supply is just the initial part of the troubleshooting process. It might not be obvious right away which other components need to be replaced if the system doesn’t start with a fresh power supply.
It’s unclear why reinstalling the operating system had to cost $150 plus data recovery, and it still seemed like nothing was done if all your login details and browsing history were intact—unless you were sure they hadn’t been cleared or saved somewhere. Since you’d have to re-enter many credentials if the OS had actually been freshly installed, it’s a bit confusing.
The PC is currently non-functional, making it hard to tell what steps were taken previously. You mentioned it worked the first time it came back from the shop—it seems a little unusual to me.
For future upgrades, any tier A option would be suitable, as it keeps you in the mid-range category. An 850-watt model would give you more flexibility for later upgrades if you keep your current case. This choice depends on what you plan for in the coming years. As Chef John might say, 'you are the architect of your FPS.'
To simplify things, a Tier C unit such as the Corsair CX650M (around $60) or EVGA 600 GD (about $50) would provide peace of mind. While it’s not the most cost-effective choice, it’s a solid option.
In the future, you might consider asking for build advice for beginners in the forum’s systems section when planning a new setup. Generally, it’s better to assemble the system yourself and become familiar with it rather than relying on repair shops, which often charge a hidden fee for labor. A Tier A unit is usually the best bet, preventing such issues.
Warning ahead—most people fall into the trap of the power supply dilemma without realizing how tricky it can be. Don’t assume that discounted prices mean quality, and avoid the temptation to skip steps just because something is on sale.
Now you’re more informed, so you can make smarter choices. The power supply tier list will stay useful for a couple of years before needing an update, after which we can look for a newer option if needed. 'Whatever suits you' works best, rather than risking everything.
If I approached it myself, would you recommend beginning with the PSU and checking if that resolves the issue? You're concerned about avoiding unnecessary purchases of replacement parts while troubleshooting.
Well the option is to go to the shop and purchase any parts they offer or have available. The benefit you gain here is the variety you have. So I’m unsure if there’s a chance to recover some of that $150 plus data recovery. Still, the question remains: how much more will they charge if other components aren’t working?
In my view, a $150 plus data recovery, a Windows reinstall, should provide a $50 to $60 power supply without extra cost. That was a solid 30-minute deal for them. Or none at all if they didn’t act — I don’t know. My thoughts aren’t theirs.
They might be tempted to sell you a $300 board, though I’m not sure. I can’t recover the graft they’ve already taken, sorry to say. I believe consumers have rights, but it’s hard to find someone to report to.
I really want to choose my own parts, but I was curious if they could figure out the issue with their current setup and return it to me in its original state. That would clearly show me what to purchase on my own. Of course, you don’t understand how they work, but that’s what I was thinking.
They didn’t find your Tier F power supply and suggest replacing it right away—plus, for $150 plus data recovery, you’d likely get a quality Tier A unit of 650w. Considering the situation, it seems they probably chose a cheaper Tier E or F PSU since they’re taking advantage of your previous oversight about the unreliable power supply.
It could also be a MOS chip issue. If the PSU failed to activate, there would be no signal at all. Should it be shutting down due to protection mechanisms activating, it would simply be off. The unit's protections don't align with the tier list guidelines. Therefore, replacing the PSU with a reliable model might be the initial troubleshooting step. I'd attempt that first and if unsuccessful, consider the MOS next. Voltage regulators (on-board) can be damaged by low-quality power supplies, which has been observed before. However, it's also possible you're fortunate. Replacing the PSU is a straightforward solution.