PC Flipping breaker
PC Flipping breaker
The circuit breaker I connected is the same one installed there right now. It's also the sole type available across the entire panel.
In the states, GFI is required in bathrooms, kitchens, and occasionally the garage because of water risk. I’m not very familiar with the code in Canada, but I think a similar setup would make sense for the same reasons. Usually, there should be a small reset switch and an indicator light for outlets that are hot. It doesn’t have to be all of them this way, but one switch on the circuit should light up green when it’s active. You might be able to flip the breaker, then check the light, or bring along a hair dryer to inspect those spots.
This is not a GFCI breaker, but one of the newer arc fault models. It belongs to the building codes for new homes in the USA. In my view, it's a scam pushed by manufacturers to politicians, aiming to push sales of more expensive and profitable devices. The idea is that people who don't understand risk running extension cords under carpets, causing damage and fire.
Protecting people from themselves is the goal, forcing them to pay more for something rare. In any case, you can find this breaker for a much lower price—around $35 to $50, which is three or four times cheaper than a standard one. Breakers are simple to replace, but working with the power panel without proper knowledge can be dangerous.
I've never worked with PC/UPS gear on an AFCI breaker, but I've faced problems with GFCI circuits.
GFCI breaker trips when UPS or SurgeArrest is used | Schneider Electric USA
Leakage currents from UPS and computer parts are common in these devices.
These currents can be strong enough to mislead the GFCI, triggering a trip. As a result, the UPS switches to battery power because the GFCI disconnects power to it or the computer. The UPS then sends the total leakage from all connected devices back to the GFCI.
Thanks to everyone's ideas, I managed to fix the issue by replacing the breaker with a new 15-amp one. It's been there for over a week and everything is working fine. I also got a wattage meter to verify my PC's usage, and it hasn't exceeded 550w yet. So upgrading the PSU to 1000w didn’t seem necessary, though it gives me more flexibility later.
It looks like the breaker I had before was likely more sensitive to leakage currents, maybe due to wear from frequent use or just being a faulty unit.