Cleaning didn't get the device running.
Cleaning didn't get the device running.
In short, my 1080ti Hybrid was making some unusual noises from the pump. I spotted a small leak in the radiator, which was repaired by a JB weld, but now the water level was dropping (no leaks on the board, just dripping from the edge of the radiator into the case). After six years without changing the thermal paste, it was time to act. I disassembled, cleaned, flushed, and reapplied the paste—still nothing happened. No signal, no fan spinning, even the lights didn<|pad|> to work. I didn’t damage the board, but I’m unsure what caused it. If anyone has suggestions or fixes, please share. I’ve attached some photos for your reference.
That's disappointing, didn't you dismantle everything and remove all the heatsinks? From what I can gather, there seems to be excessive pressure on a specific spot, which likely caused the solder joint to fail. It might have been okay while it was in place, but any movement would have led to the card shutting down. Would you try testing it on another machine? I think I should take everything off the card and leave just the PCB to check if it receives power. I've already tried this method on several cards, so feel free to prepare the PSU off switch for quick shutdown if needed—helps prevent overheating when it starts up. Just keep an eye on the core; if heat appears, let me know.
Did you just disconnect the fan or has it been disconnected while testing it? There is a chance the card may not want to boot up it a component is missing or defective. I'd ask EVGA directly for guidance on this issue. Btw. JB weld or any other type of epoxy does not mend broken channels inside a radiator. It can be a quick short term solution when you are stranded in the middle of nowhere on the side of the road. The proper way would be to either replace the radiator or weld or solder them shut. Epoxy needs several days to fully cure and even then there is still a chance with the glycol it will break loose and clog the pump.
This card is a disappointment, but I really like it. I didn’t take everything off at first—just the shroud, pump/heat sink, leaving thermal pads, back plate, and heat sink on the VRMs. I wondered if I might have over-tightened something, so I removed the shroud and retried. Still nothing. Then I took out the pump/heat sink combo again and kept trying, but it didn’t help. You mentioned heat—during my last test without a shroud and no pump/heat sink, the package stayed cold. I thought maybe with no power it would heat up after a few seconds. I’m planning to test another PC, but I tried a different PCI slot in the same one—it didn’t make a difference. Thanks for your advice so far!
I tested the setup with the fan, pump, and LED connected, and even when everything was unplugged, it still didn’t work. I’m not sure EVGA will assist since the product is past warranty, but I’ll send an email to inquire. Regarding the JB weld, the hole was very small—about the size of a slightly thicker needle—and should be manageable. I let it cure for two days before adding water. I considered swapping the rad but decided against it to avoid cutting the tubes. It looks like I won’t need a new rad unless I lose the card entirely. This is something to keep in mind if I can restore functionality. Thank you for your concern.
older cards... sometimes they stop working without any clear cause. A tiny solder joint breaking or a small part failing isn't uncommon.
You performed an action... was the thermal paste conductive? Some types are... yes, certain ones are. Which one were you using? Have you tested it after removing the paste?
Consider buying a used toaster oven and exploring the reflow technique, since there’s no risk involved.
Ensure the temperature is comfortably warm for reflowing unleaded solder. Verify functionality without thermal paste first.