Cleaning didn't get the device running.
Cleaning didn't get the device running.
Well, yes I did do something, but nothing out of the ordinary, not like I was playing basketball with the card you know? Just removed a few screws, cleaned it, and new paste. Not that different from removing your CPU cooling solution, cleaning it, and putting to back together. The thermal paste was Cryorig CP7, which I imagine is non conductive. Also I did not see any magic smoke go up. I did try with with no paste, that was when I also tried it with nothing (Fan, LED, Pump) plugged in minus power.
I'll do a bit more research before deciding. A quick online check shows 480°F, which is higher than expected. I found a Craigslist oven for $10 that can handle 450°F—different model. I'll test it again tomorrow and see if it works with the fan plugged in, but no paste.
It will be simpler to use a standard oven. I typically bake my pizza at 482°F.
I prefer avoiding hot plastic and metal with all their fumes in the oven. I also checked online—CP7 doesn't conduct electricity.
I understand your concern. You'd need to remove the plastic sockets, reinstall them for the fans and LEDs, and ensure they're placed correctly. Those reflowing processes often use a preheater reaching up to 180°C, and the final step involves a hot air station to protect components from excessive heat. It seems like a faulty batch of a recognized brand might have resulted in poor conductivity.
I've used this oven for many years and have baked a lot of cards. It's my own, fan-assisted unit, and I've never faced any issues with toxic fumes. After about 20 minutes with the extractor running, it usually takes around 200 degrees for a short reflow—just enough to fix the smallest solder joints, like those under the VRAM or core. It's not perfect, but it works. Sometimes it smells a bit, so I keep it open (it's UK regulations). Even if it's a little stinky, it's worth it—if the bake succeeds, you can have cards that last for days, months, or even years.
I wonder if I can request or pay a nearby tech store to handle the reflow as well, not sure. I've tried this paste on a few of my and my friends' CPUs, so I thought it might work.
It turns out the video in question is incorrect, though it remains useful. This version is accurate.
You'd need to look up the card's pad thicknesses and find the right ones, any brand would work, but a trusted manufacturer or thermal grizzy is ideal. It's pointless to focus on pads until you see the card function properly.