Available router choices at 2.5Gbps speeds (excluding Wi-Fi)
Available router choices at 2.5Gbps speeds (excluding Wi-Fi)
I found a suitable option recently—a new TP-Link VPN Router launching soon... What a perfect timing! You can check it here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0C238XMVV...prod_image. It features two 2.5Gbps RJ45 ports, four 1Gbps RJ45 ports, and one 1Gbps SFP port. After my ISP switched to a fiber connection, I configured static IPs and port-forwarding rules. However, once the new router arrived, I’ll need to repeat this setup. Thanks to all who shared their advice—I gained valuable insights and feel confident about my choice.
My original request was for a solid 2.5Gbps device with at least two 2.5Gbps ports (one for WAN, one for LAN). I don’t require Wi-Fi since I already have personal APs throughout the house, but I’m open to turning off built-in Wi-Fi if necessary. My networking knowledge is limited, and I don’t want to risk a complicated double NAT setup by adding another router between my ISP modem and the new device.
From what I’ve read online, I should be able to connect this router via PPPoE to the modem, which could prevent double NAT issues. Still, I’m not entirely sure about the process. Previously, with a bridge-mode modem from another ISP, I used a gigabit router and kept my 1.5Gbps speeds. That’s why I’m determined to get a 2.5Gbps model now. While I could build a self-hosted solution with pfSense or OpenSense, I prefer a ready-made unit for better power efficiency.
About six months ago, I switched from a cable provider (Rogers) to a fiber service (Bell). Everything has been great until last night when my internet suddenly stopped working. After rebooting the modem and switches, nothing improved. The ISP’s support couldn’t fix it—only scheduled a repair appointment. Since then, I’ve had to connect laptops via phone, and without the modem, I can’t reach any local devices. This makes it hard for me to run Plex or Home Assistant locally if they’re down.
My current router from the new ISP lacks bridge mode, and I can’t turn off Wi-Fi even though I disabled it. With my previous setup, the modem was in bridge mode while my own router managed routing. That worked well because I could easily set up port forwarding and static IPs, allowing a quick recovery once the old modem failed.
the concern seems to stem from the availability of high-speed routers, especially multi-gig connections, which are hard to find. the recommended option is the TP-Link Omada Sdn Router, but it only offers single-gig LAN and WAN capabilities. you’ll need a device that can handle large traffic routing effectively.
Hi, thanks for your response. The router you mentioned matches what I was using before, except it supports multiple gigabits—maybe I’ll go with that. There are two main reasons I’m hesitant to use the IPS modem/router as a router: 1) If the ISP modem fails, I’d have to reconfigure all my static IPs and port forwarding manually, which is inconvenient since my previous provider would often lose the modem temporarily. 2) Without access, I can’t reach my smart home devices that rely on Home Assistant running locally, making it impractical.
You’re looking at two main paths: a compact mini PC setup with several 2.5GbE ports (around $400) or a router equipped with an SFP port paired with a device that can negotiate 2.5GbE. The latter option is similar to the one shown on Mikrotik’s site. Single-client support for 1.5Gbps isn’t available, but enabling it wouldn’t be too difficult. It seems unlikely you’ll find a budget-friendly solution with multiple 2.5GbE ports; enterprise options have moved up from basic to more advanced configurations, while consumers usually don’t run their own routers.
Netgate is the official hardware from pfSense, specifically the Netgate 4100 BASE Security Gateway. For a more affordable option, you can build custom hardware using pfSense or OPNsense. If power consumption is a concern, consider devices that consume up to 36W. Once your connection exceeds 1Gbps, costs increase significantly. For fiber connections, connecting the router directly to the ONT is recommended and avoids using Bell's modem. Unless there are unusual signal issues, you likely won't need a separate modem for fiber.
Looking at pricing between $200 and $300 varies by setup. Check the page for details: https://www.ikoolcore.com/products/ikool...0125544735
I recently began exploring a 2.5Gbps networking setup around six months ago after switching with my new ISP. I installed 2.5Gbps NICs on my main PC and two servers, while using an affordable 2.5Gbps switch for those devices. The remaining household devices connected via a standard gigabit switch. It makes sense that the industry moved from 1G to 10G, as a tenfold increase has been common historically. I believe they offered 2.5G and 5G because they demand less processing power, making network equipment more affordable. While 10Gbps is often suggested, I’ve already purchased several 2.5Gbps devices and don’t require anything faster at the moment. If upgrading my network only needs a stronger router to boost resilience, I’ll be satisfied with that.
I’ve also run CAT6A Ethernet cables to key devices, so if I ever upgrade to 10Gbps, it should only involve updating the NICs and switches. I just ordered the router recommended earlier—it fits my current needs perfectly. It includes two 2.5Gbps RJ45 ports, four gigabit RJ45 ports, and one gigabit SFP port. Priced at around $200 CAD, it’s the updated version of what I used before, so I’m happy to buy it. It’s impressive how quickly it’s arriving, just a few days away when I need it.
You’re absolutely right about the price jump when switching to 2.5Gbps. I don’t feel the need for multi-gig speeds unless I’m willing to pay for them. If I’m paying for it, I’d like the option to use a media converter between fiber and Ethernet.
You likely have an ONT already connected via the ethernet cable from your provider modem. With a new router, simply connect that cable to the router’s WAN port and test for internet access.