You've cooked all the SATA and Molex gadgets.
You've cooked all the SATA and Molex gadgets.
Ugh, when I figured out what was happening I immediately changed all the cables... Lucky I got the rest of my system working again.
The SATA SSD operates at 3.3V and lower voltages, meaning internal regulators are present. Excess voltage—such as 12V when they should handle up to about 5.5V or 6V—can cause damage. This might lead to a blown fuse or failed regulator. Theoretically, you could bypass the faulty regulator to restore operation, though further damage is possible. Mechanical drives often include their own fuses, which may help. Additionally, TV diodes exposed to high voltage can break; removing them from the board might revive the drive.
Those videos are really useful. Thanks a lot. I’m about to open my Micron 1100 SSD, which are tough SMD parts. Tomorrow at work I’ll inspect them closely with a magnifier and proper tools. I just want to make sure there’s a small fuse in the right place. Right now I can’t spot any burn marks or similar issues.
I noticed you mentioned editing your old post. Let me know what changes you'd like to make!
Well, there's a voltage regulator right there in the picture, but the serious stuff is most likely on the other side of the board See pic below ... the black rectangle is the voltage regulator IC with a built in mosfet or diode, to the right is inductor, input capacitor is most likely the bigger one at top and output is the bottom one (but it could be reversed) The two rows of ceramic capacitors are bulk energy storage, giving the ssd controller enough energy to dump all the stuff from that micron 1 GB DDR3 1600 Mhz chip into the flash memory chips. The other side probably has some fuses or zener diodes by the sata power connector contacts and some other voltage regulators. On the bottom in the picture, most likely the small chip in left bottom corner is some eeprom (with the firmware for the ssd, or settings for the chip to the right) and the chip to the right is a small 8 bit microcontroller, a msp430 ... no idea why they'd use one on a ssd. You can see some of those 0 ohm resistors / jumper links / fuses on the other side in this video at around 3:00 You can also see 2 voltage regulators on the bottom edge on that other side ... you can spot them by being group of black chip + gray inductor square/round thing + ceramic (cream) capacitors nearby If the fuses/jumper resistors are open, they can be replaced... if regulator chips are blown, in theory they can be replaced, or you could just figure the configured voltage on the output and just put there the expected voltage by using a separate power supply (for example soldering the + and - wires of that separate power supply to the output capacitor of the dead regulators)
So the fault tracing begins. I began by taking additional quality photos. I haven’t done any research yet, but I’ll keep this thread updated. Once I spot any potentially bad components, I’ll examine them. I looked at a few resistors—some function as jumpers, others have precise values like 4700Ω or 10kΩ. I didn’t find any defective parts or unusual numbers. The blue components seem to be around 15kΩ or over 170kΩ. Could those be damaged fuses? They’re near the voltage regulator (see picture below, marked red). Also, I checked my 3.5 HDD and replaced a blown fuse—those were simpler to find, just shorted them. Besides the fuse, a 3-pin voltage regulator was damaged. Do you have any idea which part I should replace? I could buy a new HDD Controller Board from AliExpress and restore data via software (at least that’s an option). But fixing everything myself would feel like a much bigger success. HDD in total blown voltage regulator...