Your motherboard and processor might need attention. Check for signs of overheating or performance drops.
Your motherboard and processor might need attention. Check for signs of overheating or performance drops.
Hello everyone. Here’s what I’ve gathered: My build includes an Asus B550-A Gaming, a secondhand Ryzen 9 5950X, an Inno3d iChill GTX 1060, a 6GB DDR4 3200Hz Lexar cooler, a Deepcool AG400 PSU, and a Corsair CV650. It performed well for two weeks initially. I observed high power draw reaching up to 180W when PBO was on, with temperatures climbing to around 87°C but never exceeding 90°C during full CPU load. No overclocking or undervolting was used—everything auto. Last week I tried a custom encoding and it lasted about eight hours before the PC would shut down completely, even after resetting CMOS or replacing the battery. I upgraded to a Deepcool 850W PSU, but after some testing I discovered: 1) Resetting CMOS for at least 15 minutes is needed to turn it on; 2) No power was flowing through the motherboard; 3) Sleep mode caused shutdowns; 4) I can save the motherboard profile for faster setup. After a restart, step 1 had to be repeated. I also found that the voltage must stay below 1.325V (set manually in BIOS). Previously it showed 1.415V on auto, but anything above 1.325 causes freezing and shutdowns—so I’ll need to replace the board eventually. It currently handles up to 160W and stays around 75°C when active. What are your thoughts? I’m considering a new motherboard, but if the chip fails, I might stick with this setup until it stops working completely. I’m not very familiar with VRM specs—it seems related to how well the VRMs perform. Have others had similar issues?
This is an overclock setting. Did you try disabling it ? Your cooler is supposed to handle 250W just fine but since I don't know airflow, it may be safer to run base settings for lenghty encoding. I suppose you are doing CPU encoding because that GPU is clearly underpowered compared to your CPU. There should be a faster way to do that reset. Usually you can turn off the power supply and short two pins (or a jumper) to instantly do the CMOS reset. Having to do a CMOS reset at each boot isn't normal. I'd try replacing the CMOS battery (a regular CR2032 button cell). Maybe try reflashing the BIOS to make sure it is not corrupted. Same behavior with the new power supply ? Here's a few additional ideas. You tried shorting the power pins on the motherboard (you may have to remove the front i/o power cable first) to see if the power button is not defective ? If you try setting your boot order to USB first and try booting on an USB stick, any behavior change ? You got a spare SSD that you can use to install a fresh Windows (or simply erase your boot drive and install a fresh Windows) ? Checking all connectors and cables to make sure everything is connected as it should. Reseating RAM sticks. Good luck !
Hi, I've already tried that. The reset button also acts as the power button, but it doesn't seem to work. It appears unrelated to the boot process since it only powers on after removing the CMOS battery and disconnecting the power cable for 15 minutes. When it does turn on, I can boot into Windows without issues. Recent updates show it took 30 minutes instead of the usual 15 minutes. I'm planning to replace the GPU in a few months.
Hi, thanks for the update. I purchased a Gigabyte B550 Aorus Master. The board works well with extended stock configurations, but it lacks the adaptability of the Asus board during overclocking. It occasionally crashes unexpectedly. Performance varies between 4.4 GHz at 1.30V and 4.6 GHz at 1.35V PBO.