XMP - Working?
XMP - Working?
Just briefly mentioned a comment about XMP for memory in newer systems, curious if my old Asus H97-Plus supported it too. Turned it on from AUTO, saved, and rebooted—nothing else changed except before the BIOS asked to confirm the update, mentioning around a dozen items. Is that all? Do I really need any adjustments? Does XMP improve performance compared to AUTO? How can I verify if it actually made a difference or improved things by how much? Usually I stick to BIOS defaults, tweaking only a few minor settings like boot order or UEFI, and I’m not sure this would make a noticeable change.
XMP requires your RAM to be compatible.
To find out the type of RAM you possess, download and execute HWinfo64, link: https://www.hwinfo.com/download/
"Summary only" will suffice when you start it.
There, you'll display the details of your RAM. When you select AUTO, your DDR3 RAM typically operates at 1066/1333/1600 Mhz. However, activating XMP can raise the speed to 1866/2000/2133 etc., depending on the capabilities of your RAM.
RAM speed refers to the "Clock" in HWinfo64. Because you have Double Data Rate RAM, you must double the clock value to determine the actual performance.
For example, if you have DDR4 3000 Mhz RAM, HWinfo64 indicates it runs at 1500 Mhz.
Well, I see XMP listed... after I posted I reset the system back to BIOS Defaults to be safe.
So this is at default.
There, enabled and rebooted
I see a few small changes...
Clock went from 665.1Mhz to 800Mhz... CR from 1T to 2T... tRFC 174 to 208
Few CPU changes but I think those things fluctuate anyways, since it's a Xeon I don't think those can be OC'd which is fine. I don't really want to OC anything but, if stuf isn't running as fast as it was designed to well, then I wanna change it.
😀
I'd rather stable/safe though than push anything.
I am looking to get a new system soon... went back to school again so budget tight so may be a while.
That said, looking at my system and for games like Fortnite... just curious... would you update the GPU to an RTX 3070 first? or the CPU/Mobo/Ram first to an i5-13600k?
Sucks, that the CPU/Mobo/Ram cost the same as a GPU but if I buy a GPU I'm looking for used (non-mining) for half the price to save a few bucks.
The information indicates that on AUTO, RAM operates at 1333 Mhz, whereas under XMP it reaches 1600 Mhz. It is noted that the system is designed to function optimally at up to 1600 Mhz (this detail is confirmed by the RAM part number). In practical use, the difference between 1333 Mhz and 1600 Mhz is imperceptible. A recent video comparing these speeds in games is available here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X57eUy96JW0. It was observed that at 1600 Mhz, performance gains around 10 FPS are minimal, with noticeable improvement only after the 0:42 point. At approximately 120 Fps, a 10 FPS difference is unlikely to be perceptible. The main variation would appear in synthetic tests and specific results. Ultimately, it depends on personal preference regarding RAM responsiveness (CAS Latency stays consistent at 9). Running at 1600 Mhz may be preferable for better performance. Using RAM at its intended speed—1600 Mhz—does not strain the system excessively. For your build, which supports up to 1866 Mhz (as per my specifications), opting for 1600 Mhz is reasonable. The PSU model and age are important factors, as they determine GPU compatibility. Please share your monitor resolution and refresh rate as well. This detail helps assess whether investing in a higher RAM speed is worthwhile. Acquiring a used GPU is generally not recommended. Even if labeled as non-mining, many used models are outdated mining hardware, particularly from the RTX 30-series lineup. For example, a recent discussion on GamersNexus (link provided) considers purchasing an RTX 3070 at MSRP and offers insights into value. Regarding budget, buying a used GPU with a significant discount is not advisable unless the price is exceptionally low, as most used units are from older generations. If you decide to proceed, ensure you have sufficient funds for potential replacements or repairs. From another angle, the motivation behind selling GPUs often stems from performance decline; miners typically dispose of failing hardware rather than sell it at full value. This behavior underscores the importance of upgrading to newer models when necessary. The financial and technical risks associated with used components outweigh any short-term savings.
So... after all these years RAM was lagging compared to its price... Sigh. But I’m glad I got that extra 1-10fps. 😊
My setup is still in the original build, which I had to check since I’m not sure what PSU I have.
I bought a new EVGA SuperNOVA GS 650W.
Actually, I rebuilt my PC using PCPartPicker so I can match what I own and plan future upgrades. I hope to keep the case and the 2TB drive, and maybe replace the rest. You’ll also see the Canadian prices—yeah, a true Canuck! So the RTX3070 goes from $499 (a fair price) to around $849 CAD if it’s available, which is a lot. Yikes! That’s why I’m thinking about buying a used one... sometimes you can find one for $400, which would save me enough to buy the CPU.
Canada’s pricing is strange. After exchange, $499 becomes $685, but then you still pay another $164 on top. It’s the same everywhere.
Anyway
Here’s what I currently have:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/pJFbsX
This is what I’m aiming for eventually... minus the monitor. I want a 27" 1440Hz, but that’s probably something I’ll buy next year.
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Gg4m9r
I already have the HDD drive (D:\ for documents, music, photos, etc.) and the CPU cooler is installed. Usually over $100 CAD here, but I found it on sale for $40 CAD.
Regards of upgrading your GPU, you have two issues with your PSU:
Your EVGA GS 650W has a fault, whereby your PSU doesn't have OCP (Over Current Protection) on any of the rails. This is a very serious issue and your PSU should not be used. EGVA GS 850W and up, doesn't have this OCP issue.
For RTX 3070, PSU max wattage should be at least 850W. This is due to the GPU transient spikes, where RTX 30-series GPUs, can spike 2.5-3x of their normal power consumption.
What are GPU transient power spikes? A video to watch:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnRyyCsuHFQ
So, before going for new GPU, get yourself a new, good quality, 850W unit. The Corsair RM850x what you have listed, is a good PSU.
Answer me this: when your used GPU happens to die on you (1 day/week/month) after you bought it, then what?
Fork out another 400 CAD for another used GPU, in hopes the 2nd used one doesn't die shortly after? But if 2nd one also dies on you shortly after, what's next?
Another 400 for 3rd used GPU? And so forth?
Or pay ~1200 CAD for brand new RTX 4070 Ti, which has warranty and a guarantee that you are covered for the warranty period (usually 2 years),
pcpp:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/products/vid...rice&c=549
RTX 3070 Ti vs RTX 4070 Ti,
link:
https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nv...4116vs4146
Btw, RTX 4070 Ti is minimum, if you want to get ~144 FPS @ 1440p, which your planned LG monitor is (144 Hz). RTX 3070 Ti would give you ~80 FPS @ 1440p (in this case, might go with cheaper, 75Hz 1440p monitor).
RTX 4070 Ti review:
https://www.techspot.com/review/2601-nvi...x-4070-ti/
Oh, RTX 4070 Ti can live fine with 750W PSU.
Rather than forking out loads of money, good upgrade would also be:
Good quality 650W PSU, e.g Seasonic Focus/PRIME (to get rid of the no OCP of your current PSU);
GTX 1660 Ti
1080p, 144 Hz monitor
This would make your build solid 1080p gaming rig, essentially equal to my current, Skylake rig (full specs with pics in my sig). Since your Xeon is equal to my i5-6600K.
Further upgrade would be Core i5-13400 with MoBo that supports DDR4. So, that you don't have to waste money on expensive DDR5, instead, you can buy much cheaper DDR4.
Of course, there's always the thing between what one "needs" and what one "wants". Everybody wants high-end, expensive hardware, but question is, do you really "need" it? Or can you make due with less/cheaper hardware?
🤔
Hahah... it seems I was confused about spending 1200CAD on a video card... that scenario won’t happen even if I were extremely wealthy. Right now I’m back in school again, so anything priced at that amount is unlikely.
PSU, sorry... I thought mine was on the PSU Tier list, maybe not the very top but close to it. I double-checked for the 850w model, which is why I chose that one—it was the cheapest among the Gold+ options.
My initial upgrade plan was more affordable, but it led me into a “just a bit more” cycle. I started with the 12th generation, but the 13th offered such a performance leap I switched to it. I went with the B660 board, but I began reading about PCIe lanes and various video reviews stating that any card priced similarly tends to be the Z690... which in turn is comparable to Z790 boards.
I considered going mATX... honestly, I only need a single M2 slot, a video slot, and possibly an extra one for a network card (if needed). I wanted something with a heatsink for the M2, but I could also purchase one separately.
The Asus mATX model is 30 CAD cheaper than the Gigabyte ATX, and adding a heatsink would cost another 20-30 CAD, so it makes sense to opt for the Gigabyte. There’s no price listed for the DDR4 version, possibly indicating it’s discontinued—just noted in the vendor list.
Anyway...
CPU/RAM/MOBO combinations
Z790 with DDR5 5600 ($835)
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/sPNZPX
Z790 with DDR4 3600 (mATX no heatsink) ($745)
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/4pxpRv
Z690 with DDR4 (with flashback) ($795)
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/4pxpRv
So, the Z690 option seems less appealing if you’re using DDR4.
The Asus board is an mATX, which is acceptable... but it offers slower Ethernet, so I’d need to buy a M2 heatsink (though I could also buy one separately).
Between DDR4 and DDR5, the budget would be around 90 CAD to 70 CAD depending on choices.
CPU cost is $410 CAD... unfortunately, this remains a significant expense that hasn’t changed much in months. It’s not worth it unless I can afford a system upgrade in 8-10 years.
GTX 1660Ti... that feels like a minor step compared to the overall cost.
I initially considered the RTX2070Super, moving up one generation and tier from my GTX1060... but even then, they were priced between $350 and $400!
In reality, I evaluate card rankings. If my current card is 106th, the 2070s are 40th—definitely a good upgrade. However, used models are too expensive, and for just $50 more, options like the 2080 or 3070 were available.
You’re right about used vs new—$1200 isn’t realistic either. It’s not a necessity.
😀
To be honest, I’m running a system from the 4th generation. I built it for longevity; it’s reliable and still performs well. Still, almost anything counts as an upgrade. My CPU is around 290 on the speed ranking, and a 12th gen 12600k would place me at 30th—so even that would offer a noticeable performance boost.
I’d probably wait 8 to 10 years before replacing it, so splurging now makes sense.
The listing is found in Tier D, not at the top. This is due to the 650W unit being present. If you opt for an 850W model, yours would fall into Tier A. The main concern is the absence of OCP support on 550/650W EVGA GS models.
If you're looking for a cheaper option—paying little—you might end up with something less reliable.
Here are two 650W, 80+ Gold, fully modular PSUs available in CAD:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/products/com...f7,n34BD3/
Regarding the price difference between Seasonic and Enermax units, it's approximately 65 CAD more for Seasonic.
Which one would you prefer? The reasoning behind it is unclear.
Why this requirement exists?
It seems to be about ensuring compatibility with newer Intel 600-series chipsets. Running a 13th-gen processor on such chipsets isn't recommended. BIOS flashback can help revert updates, but it's not the right approach for upgrading to the 13th gen.
This method is unusual for deciding GPU upgrade potential.
Reflecting on my current setup, I own a GTX 1660 Ti and a GTX 1060 3GB. The 3GB model gave me around 60 FPS at 1080p, while the Ti delivers smooth 144 FPS. Upgrading to 1080p is definitely possible. However, if you're willing to invest, you can assess which GPU works best for your needs. Ultimately, it comes down to your budget.
RTX 30-series cards are often overpriced, especially used ones. The next best option would be the RTX 40-series. The 4070 Ti is quite costly, so you're left with either the RTX 20-series or GTX 16-series. The GTX 16-series is reasonable and offers a noticeable performance boost, though not the highest.
If you have sufficient funds to replace a used GPU, it's worth considering. I personally prefer buying new and having warranty coverage for replacements.
The choice of hardware should be based on actual performance needs rather than arbitrary rankings.
Whether my 6th gen Core i5 ranks at 314th on Userbenchmark matters little to me. I can confirm directly that my current system meets my requirements, so upgrading isn't urgent.
I recommend focusing on CPU, motherboard, RAM, and GPU performance based on real-world results rather than generic scores.
TierD? Sheesh... though was it TierD 8yrs ago? or just TierD now by comparison to what's out? Regardless, if I buy another PSU I'll get that Corsair 850w. I won't get that until ready to buy a GPU though so for now, not a concern. I mean... It's worked 100% fine for 8yrs, I'm not overly worried about it until the GPU get's replaced. Probably do both at the same time.
M.2 Heatsink wise... when I was looking up those drives and NVMe etc, many articles mentioned heat issues and performance throttle. If an extra few bucks makes it run better and last longer (especially since it holds my data) then I'll spend the extra few bucks. Right now I have a 250GB SSD as my C:\ for apps/games and a 2TB HDD as a D:\ for files and works great. Downside is, for example I finally got Borderlands 3, and it doesn't fit. 95GB game so either I run it off the HDD or I dump Fortnite which I play with my nieces/nephews so it stays. Figured if I get a 500GB, may as well go NVMe for about $60CAD for the WD SN770.
Flashback button, according to the internet
"BIOS Flashback is a feature found on certain motherboards that lets you update the BIOS without requiring a CPU, GPU, or memory installed."
Which would be exactly what I want if I have a motherboard with a BIOS designed for 12th gen, but I have a 13th gen CPU. I need to be able to flash the BIOS without a CPU to the current version that detects/uses the 13th gen.
GPU and money to burn... well, agree to disagree. I think spending $300 on a card moderately better isn't great, just means I need to upgrade it sooner. Also, the RTX 2060 is the same price and ranked higher up. Yes, I know the number on
these sites
are sometimes fudged a bit but, they're not far off. 12GB even better but again, always something better for "just a bit more money"... and then your budget goes bye-bye.
😀
Hardware picking wise... 100% ranking. How else would I pick? I don't have access to the stuff to test with
😀
. Also, it's a viable resource, I mean... is the i5-13600k faster than my Xeon? yes. Is it ranked higher? yes. Can I tell from that ranking and it's place on the list how much of a difference I'll likely see in performance? yes. It's so far up the list I should see a big difference. And higher on the list also means (to me) the system will stay relevant longer. Can I get a cheaper upgrade? yes. Will I have to upgrade that sooner? yes. So if a system lasts 6yrs instead of 8yrs... did I save any money? Though I guess works both ways... pay less upgrade more - vs - pay more upgrade less... two sides of the same coin.
Basically, I try to get up as high on the list as my budget allows so my hardware lasts longer. I'm sure there are better strategies, but, I did it for this system, and it worked out well.
Board wise, B760M... see this is where forums get tricky. I posted about the B660 vs Z690 and it was hands down "don't waste money on the B660" because of the whole PCIe rails and throttling the speed of the GPU when I upgrade and a few other features. They also said spend the extra and get 3600 not 3200 ram.
It seems to bounce back/forth on here with opinions... though everyone seems to have decent reasoning behind it.
Um, I was thinking
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/WXwBY9
I do some Fusion360 and LOTS of video encoding, which some software apps now will enable the iGPU of the CPU to help with encoding. Otherwise, I was gonna get the i5-13600f but because this system is primarily work not gaming there are a few factors like that to consider.
The i5-12600k with the same system is $100 cheaper than that. Still a viable upgrade over what I have.
RYZEN wasn't referenced at all. I previously used AMD about 20 years ago, but faced numerous problems. After that, I switched to Intel since building my 75hz, then the 200mmx system, and so on... I get the idea of Intel's naming, though I'm not sure what the Ryzen versions correspond to.