Working with a 5950x size is really frustrating for me.
Working with a 5950x size is really frustrating for me.
I'm new to this and had to search hard, but thanks to the search engines I'm getting some help. Basically, I landed a good deal on a 5950x chipset. The main challenge is working with such powerful processors—it's confusing. Right now I'm using an i7-7700K paired with a GTX 1070. That should give you a sense of the tech level I'm dealing with. I think the X570 board would be ideal because it offers quicker PCIe lanes for better CPU performance. I’m thinking maybe a board under $200 would work, since I mainly want gaming and don’t need advanced features. I’m not sure if I’ll need more than an 8-pin power connector, but I’m worried about overclocking beyond the stock settings. Another concern is finding a motherboard that supports 5th generation Ryzen CPUs right out of the box. Updating the BIOS without a functioning system feels risky, especially if I rely on random forum advice. I’m aiming for something around $150 and want to avoid anything that limits CPU performance. Cooler recommendations would be great. The packaging suggests using liquid cooling, but I’m not sure if air coolers can handle this model at stock speeds. Thanks a lot!
Not exactly. There's nothing wrong with an X570 board, but at the same time unless you actually need 2+ Gen 4 SSDs or are planning on using VFIO, there isn't a reason to get one over a B550 board. Plus for the most part, on the boards less than $200 (you don't need a $200+ board to power a 5950X) the B550 boards have a better VRM than their X570 counterparts. You don't need more than a single 8 pin unless you plan on taking the CPU on LN2. The 8 pin connectors on a motherboard are wired in parallel so only one needs to be plugged in in order to function, and the 8 pin connector can handle 396W at a minimum. At ambient it's not possible to cool that CPU when consuming over 250W, and realistically you can't get it to consume much over 200W when just using PBO. If you don't buy a used motherboard, this isn't actually a problem. Every motherboard manufactured within the last 2 years has support for the 5950X, so unless the board you want to get has been sitting on a shelf for 2 years it will support Ryzen 5000. If you're still really concerned about it, get a board with BIOS flashback. My usual recommendation around that $150 price point is the ASRock B550 Steel Legend since it's the cheapest board that has a POST code while also having a pretty good VRM. The POST code just makes troubleshooting the system very convenient in the event something were to break. There are other boards like the B550-A Pro that are also good. Get a dual tower air cooler and you should be alright. The Scythe Fuma 2, Deepcool AK620, and NH-D15 are all solid options. Edited August 10, 2022 by RONOTHAN##
Thanks for the clear overview. Right now I’m still using a SATA SSD (though it feels a bit dated these days), but I’m planning to switch to an M.2 drive soon. It seems easy to clone everything from my old setup, and the prices are quite reasonable. Regarding the power connector, the only concern was a video that mentioned needing extra power for optimal performance—probably a bit overstated, but I understand. As long as the CPU runs smoothly, I’m good. I’m leaning toward an ASRock board rather than the Steel Legend, mainly for a sleeker, all-black look. I might need to compare a few models before deciding.
In reality, you probably wouldn't see any change. If you need more space or your hard drive is in poor shape (<50% lifespan according to SMART), then it makes sense to upgrade. Otherwise, it’s not worth the effort. The main reason I prefer M.2 drives now is they match the cost of quality SATA options—so why not? I still have a few SATA SSDs for testing because they’re easier to use, and I don’t notice any difference in boot times.
For processors from the 10th generation or newer (i9, X299/Threadripper), that extra 8-pin connector is useful since those chips can draw over 400W. On Ryzen systems, I rarely plug in the additional pin unless necessary. Still, for most tasks it’s probably not worth it—especially when experts like Jay are involved. He often misrepresents things, such as linking higher PSU ratings to better GPUs, which isn’t true. There’s a slight connection but that’s about it.
If looks matter, consider the B550-A Pro—it’s reliable. The TUF GAMING B550-Pro offers solid value for around $150 and beats MSI boards. The B550 PG Velocita is similar to the Steel Legend but with a different look (black and silver with red accents and more RGB), plus extra power and reset buttons. I’d likely choose the PG Velocita for its features and style, though my preferences differ. Old-school XOC boards like Rampage II Extreme or ASRock’s older OC Formula models appeal to me more aesthetically.
I’d definitely choose a motherboard that supports USB BIOS flashing. The only time I needed that was when I installed my 5900 on a B550 board. Air coolers are fine, as others mentioned, and AIOs aren’t too costly either. AMD processors tend to get hot, so keep that in mind if you’re checking temperatures. Even my 5900 stays warm under a 280mm AIO. Manual overclocking is less common now; most chips handle it automatically quite well. Just verify the QVL for RAM. Ryzen chips are much improved but can still be selective.
Back then, those mural GPUs were ahead of their time—getting into the scene around the GTX 980 release and when X99 was just starting out. I mainly appreciated the cool motherboards, which is why all the boards I mentioned were XOC-focused back then. Those were definitely more exciting times for hardware launches (though it seems we’re finally returning to that era). I do miss those blue LED days though—I started with a salvaged rig in an 800D, water-cooled, packed full of UV LEDs and reactive fluid. It was definitely a more visually engaging period, whether you liked it or not.