F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop Will an EDID emulator resolve my AVR problem?

Will an EDID emulator resolve my AVR problem?

Will an EDID emulator resolve my AVR problem?

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achoo_ca
Member
69
10-09-2021, 03:08 PM
#1
Hello!
I've linked my computer (Windows 11) with my Sony AV Receiver. It functions properly, though I find the frequent freezing and the "monitor connection" animation when turning it on or off bothers me. The f.lux application also tends to crash, forcing me to restart it.

I was considering installing an EDID emulator—plugging the AVR into the input and copying its EDID when powered up, then using that output with the computer. If this is correct, it should prevent Windows from constantly updating for the AVR's display and audio devices, regardless of their power state.

I’m wondering if this approach makes sense. Additionally, would a small adapter adapter work, or would I need a device that needs external power?
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achoo_ca
10-09-2021, 03:08 PM #1

Hello!
I've linked my computer (Windows 11) with my Sony AV Receiver. It functions properly, though I find the frequent freezing and the "monitor connection" animation when turning it on or off bothers me. The f.lux application also tends to crash, forcing me to restart it.

I was considering installing an EDID emulator—plugging the AVR into the input and copying its EDID when powered up, then using that output with the computer. If this is correct, it should prevent Windows from constantly updating for the AVR's display and audio devices, regardless of their power state.

I’m wondering if this approach makes sense. Additionally, would a small adapter adapter work, or would I need a device that needs external power?

I
iTzSantiiArg
Member
56
10-26-2021, 01:00 AM
#2
Update your post with complete hardware details and operating system information. Provide the power supply specifications, including make, model, wattage, age, and condition (original, build, refurbished, used). List all connected peripherals. Specify whether the network connection is wired or wireless. Check Reliability History/Monitor and Event Viewer for any error codes, warnings, or events recorded near the freeze time. Also mention any power or screen saving settings currently active.
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iTzSantiiArg
10-26-2021, 01:00 AM #2

Update your post with complete hardware details and operating system information. Provide the power supply specifications, including make, model, wattage, age, and condition (original, build, refurbished, used). List all connected peripherals. Specify whether the network connection is wired or wireless. Check Reliability History/Monitor and Event Viewer for any error codes, warnings, or events recorded near the freeze time. Also mention any power or screen saving settings currently active.

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NitroX_PvP
Junior Member
5
10-27-2021, 06:42 AM
#3
I don't see the need for those things. This isn't an error with hardware or software. This is just how Windows behaves when you connect/disconnect a monitor, it's supposed to work like this. The same happens if I plugged one of my desktop monitors out and in again, and it will happen on any default Windows 11 system. It's not a true system freeze, it's more like an intentionally programmed loading screen as Windows figures out the new state of connected display devices.
This is also the default behavior when connecting some AVR's to a computer, as many AVR's, unlike monitors, do not go into a standby mode where they're still capable of communicating their presence to the computer, instead they completely power off and essentially register as just an HDMI cable plugged into nothing.
Further system details than the ones I've provided seems to me to be pointless, as they have no bearing on what's happening here. I just want to trick Windows into reading the AVR as present even when it's powered off, and I'm unsure if some form of EDID emulator will achieve this or not.
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NitroX_PvP
10-27-2021, 06:42 AM #3

I don't see the need for those things. This isn't an error with hardware or software. This is just how Windows behaves when you connect/disconnect a monitor, it's supposed to work like this. The same happens if I plugged one of my desktop monitors out and in again, and it will happen on any default Windows 11 system. It's not a true system freeze, it's more like an intentionally programmed loading screen as Windows figures out the new state of connected display devices.
This is also the default behavior when connecting some AVR's to a computer, as many AVR's, unlike monitors, do not go into a standby mode where they're still capable of communicating their presence to the computer, instead they completely power off and essentially register as just an HDMI cable plugged into nothing.
Further system details than the ones I've provided seems to me to be pointless, as they have no bearing on what's happening here. I just want to trick Windows into reading the AVR as present even when it's powered off, and I'm unsure if some form of EDID emulator will achieve this or not.

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Oxopvp80
Member
183
10-27-2021, 07:59 AM
#4
I merely aim to make Windows perceive the AVR as active even when powered down, and I’m not sure if an EDID emulator will work in this situation.
We have no information about your setup, Windows version, connected devices, drivers, monitors, etc., and their configurations.
Discovering a solution often comes down to testing and adjusting.
What I can share is:
EDID Emulator Reviews
This serves only as an initial reference and not an endorsement or suggestion for any particular product.
Maybe another user could point you toward a suitable EDID emulator.
Please adjust accordingly.
O
Oxopvp80
10-27-2021, 07:59 AM #4

I merely aim to make Windows perceive the AVR as active even when powered down, and I’m not sure if an EDID emulator will work in this situation.
We have no information about your setup, Windows version, connected devices, drivers, monitors, etc., and their configurations.
Discovering a solution often comes down to testing and adjusting.
What I can share is:
EDID Emulator Reviews
This serves only as an initial reference and not an endorsement or suggestion for any particular product.
Maybe another user could point you toward a suitable EDID emulator.
Please adjust accordingly.

N
176
11-02-2021, 09:12 PM
#5
Which, once more, doesn't seem important is my concern—my question really boils down to whether an EDID emulator could make Windows think it's still linked to the original hardware, even if that hardware isn't actually present anymore.
I feel Windows processes HDMI signals in a way that remains consistent across different power supplies, regardless of Wi-Fi usage, the type of input devices, or storage capacity.
I might be mistaken since I'm unfamiliar with EDID handshake mechanics, but it seems to me like asking about breakfast before deciding whether to wear a jacket. Not trying to be pedantic, just thinking gathering all this data would be pointless.
Thanks for the link—I'll look into it for possible new perspectives!
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NutzSquirrelYT
11-02-2021, 09:12 PM #5

Which, once more, doesn't seem important is my concern—my question really boils down to whether an EDID emulator could make Windows think it's still linked to the original hardware, even if that hardware isn't actually present anymore.
I feel Windows processes HDMI signals in a way that remains consistent across different power supplies, regardless of Wi-Fi usage, the type of input devices, or storage capacity.
I might be mistaken since I'm unfamiliar with EDID handshake mechanics, but it seems to me like asking about breakfast before deciding whether to wear a jacket. Not trying to be pedantic, just thinking gathering all this data would be pointless.
Thanks for the link—I'll look into it for possible new perspectives!

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ApolloGam3r
Member
51
11-03-2021, 10:09 PM
#6
Fair enough, your argument holds strong.
In general, though, numerous factors come into play, aiming to pinpoint likely suspects and match them accurately.
Someone might notice a particular device setup where the emulator fails regardless of the reason found,
while another could see that a specific configuration would resolve the issue.
Others might simply confirm they’ve used the same setup and agree the emulator "X" performed correctly.
Handshaking depends on protocols governing connections and communication between devices—hardware aspects like plugs, ports, and pinouts, plus the signals exchanged.
The emulator must integrate seamlessly with these components to function properly.
A
ApolloGam3r
11-03-2021, 10:09 PM #6

Fair enough, your argument holds strong.
In general, though, numerous factors come into play, aiming to pinpoint likely suspects and match them accurately.
Someone might notice a particular device setup where the emulator fails regardless of the reason found,
while another could see that a specific configuration would resolve the issue.
Others might simply confirm they’ve used the same setup and agree the emulator "X" performed correctly.
Handshaking depends on protocols governing connections and communication between devices—hardware aspects like plugs, ports, and pinouts, plus the signals exchanged.
The emulator must integrate seamlessly with these components to function properly.

T
Tuetme
Senior Member
418
11-07-2021, 02:23 AM
#7
I've relied on EDID boxes for years to resolve Windows hdmi hotplug problems with dual monitors, AVRs, and TVs. They function perfectly, making Windows believe the "monitor" and/or sound device remains connected even when your TV or AVR powers down. This prevents any resizing or shifting between screens. They work seamlessly with any Windows PC using HDMI and a TV or AVR, no matter the operating system version—from Windows 10 to Windows 11 home or professional editions.
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Tuetme
11-07-2021, 02:23 AM #7

I've relied on EDID boxes for years to resolve Windows hdmi hotplug problems with dual monitors, AVRs, and TVs. They function perfectly, making Windows believe the "monitor" and/or sound device remains connected even when your TV or AVR powers down. This prevents any resizing or shifting between screens. They work seamlessly with any Windows PC using HDMI and a TV or AVR, no matter the operating system version—from Windows 10 to Windows 11 home or professional editions.

S
sniperboy650
Senior Member
735
11-07-2021, 03:44 AM
#8
Thanks! I wanted to confirm with someone who has done this before to be sure before making a decision.
I think I’ve figured out that one of the power boxes with both ends female is exactly what I need. The pass-through dongles might not fit as well here. I’ll likely go with the one you mentioned!
S
sniperboy650
11-07-2021, 03:44 AM #8

Thanks! I wanted to confirm with someone who has done this before to be sure before making a decision.
I think I’ve figured out that one of the power boxes with both ends female is exactly what I need. The pass-through dongles might not fit as well here. I’ll likely go with the one you mentioned!

Z
ZainyZac
Junior Member
48
11-15-2021, 05:39 PM
#9
I've never relied on using any of those pass-through dongles.
Z
ZainyZac
11-15-2021, 05:39 PM #9

I've never relied on using any of those pass-through dongles.

S
StraffexPvP
Junior Member
19
11-22-2021, 10:53 PM
#10
Hello again! I have another question about the EDID emulator setup. Could you explain the process for making it appear as though the connection is still active? I've experimented with different configurations—using PC as input and AVR as output, swapping them around, applying both 4K60Hz profiles, and using the Copy button. I was hoping to get the right results so the device would respond properly. I managed to capture picture and sound before, but now I'm facing issues and can't seem to fix it. In the setup where AVR is input and PC as output, the AVR doesn't receive any video or audio, leaving only a black screen and silence. The emulator also fails to show the "signal in both ends" indicator, which suggests the signal from my PC stops working inside the emulator. I'm not entirely sure what I'm doing wrong, but any advice would be greatly appreciated!
S
StraffexPvP
11-22-2021, 10:53 PM #10

Hello again! I have another question about the EDID emulator setup. Could you explain the process for making it appear as though the connection is still active? I've experimented with different configurations—using PC as input and AVR as output, swapping them around, applying both 4K60Hz profiles, and using the Copy button. I was hoping to get the right results so the device would respond properly. I managed to capture picture and sound before, but now I'm facing issues and can't seem to fix it. In the setup where AVR is input and PC as output, the AVR doesn't receive any video or audio, leaving only a black screen and silence. The emulator also fails to show the "signal in both ends" indicator, which suggests the signal from my PC stops working inside the emulator. I'm not entirely sure what I'm doing wrong, but any advice would be greatly appreciated!

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