Wi-Fi vs Ethernet Speed DIfference
Wi-Fi vs Ethernet Speed DIfference
You recently received a 100 Mbps internet connection from your local ISP and used a Nokia g-240w-f as the main modem with an integrated wireless AP, eliminating the need for a separate router. Initially, your PC connected via Ethernet showed speeds of about 90-100 Mbps on Speedtest.net. However, using Wi-Fi on your iPhone X and MacBook Air resulted in much lower speeds—10-20 Mbps and around 20 Mbps respectively. This inconsistency frustrated you since Wi-Fi is generally slower than Ethernet. After switching to a new router from Tenda AC-23, you observed speeds of roughly 20 Mbps on your MacBook Air, which is still below the expected range. You’re wondering what could be causing this performance drop and how to improve it.
You want to boost the WiFi performance? The problem lies in its radio nature and limited power for safety reasons. Distance, walls, and interference greatly affect speed. Reducing the coverage area with a mesh setup or repeaters can help, but it won’t reach Ethernet speeds even with more investment.
I understand your situation, but I only achieved about 2 out of 10 of my actual internet speed. Could you reach at least 50-60 Mbps? I know the router can handle up to 300 Mbps on 2.4 GHz and around 1733 GHz on 5 GHz, and some users with the same setup managed 200 Mbps over Wi-Fi.
@Satong A. - WiFi sometimes reaches faster than ethernet, but those speeds won’t stay steady or dependable like wired connections. Also, the numbers given by manufacturers assume perfect conditions—no interference, no blockages, etc.—so in practice you only achieve a small part of the claimed rate. B. - Achieving 300Mbps on the 2.4GHz band requires using 802.11n with channel bonding active. You must disable older standards like 802.11b/g and set a wider channel width. This can cause compatibility problems with older devices, though it’s necessary for reaching that speed. The 1733Mbps on the 5GHz band is only possible near the access point, with no obstructions and full MIMO support. Be cautious: increasing channel width may lead to overlap and interference with neighboring networks. C. - A noticeable gap in speed between wired and wireless tests often points to issues at the access point or congestion in your network. If you share your setup, use a WiFi analyzer to check your environment. Take screenshots of your settings and run analysis for both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. Also capture your current configuration and ensure you’re using WPA/WPA2-PSK, with beamforming enabled and separate SSIDs for each band. D. - If your device isn’t operating in AP mode and your ISP gateway isn’t in bridge mode, you might face double NAT, which can slow everything down.
The Wifi Analyzer and my router configuration are included in the attachment. Besides that, there are additional neighbor Wi-Fi networks and another Wi-Fi from a different ISP. Initially, my router wasn’t running in AP mode; I just switched it to AP recently. For bridge mode, the LAN port connected to my router is already set, but it doesn’t provide internet access.
@Satong No. When using AP mode on your AC23, simply turn off its wireless radios on the ISP device and assign a fixed MAC address to a static IP outside the DHCP range. If you prefer bridge mode, disable AP on the AC23. For the 2.4GHz band, manually set the broadcast channel to '11', switch to '11n' mode, and try a 40MHz bandwidth. The WiFi Analyzer device won’t pick up your 5GHz network, suggesting you’re either too distant or facing interference from obstacles. For the 5GHz band, use '11ac' channel 44 and set a 80MHz bandwidth, or test with 40MHz. Remember to avoid auto-settings like 20/40/80. How big is your home? Are there multiple levels? Share a floor plan and mark the network gear locations.
I don’t know about it, but follow the rules of your area. Most wireless access points operate on a 40MHz channel if set to auto, which helps reach peak performance for 802.11n devices. Additionally, other nearby channels have weak signals and are unlikely to interfere at 40MHz. That’s why I recommended trying it out.
That's what Auto is "supposed" to do, choose 20Mhz unless there is free spectrum to do 40Mhz. Unfortunately, many router manufacturers ignore the rules, some even have a "Force 40Mhz, ignoring regulatory requirements" option. Its not a surprise really as many routers on Auto pick channels 2,3,4,5,7,8,9,10 too, none of which should be used in order to avoid overlapping channels. Auto in general causes more problems than it solves IMO.