Which NZXT H9 model is better, H9 Flow or H9 Flow RGB+?
Which NZXT H9 model is better, H9 Flow or H9 Flow RGB+?
Hey there, I haven’t assembled a PC in a while. I’m trying to grasp how RGB management functions today. Right now, my intended configuration looks like this:
* NZXT H9 Flow 2025
* 7x ARCTIC P14 PWM PST A-RGB 0dB Black
* MSI GeForce RTX 5080 16G GAMING TRIO OC
* AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D
* WD_BLACK SN7100 2 TB
* ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR X870E HERO
* Kingston FURY 32GB KIT DDR5 6000MT/s CL30 Beast RGB
* Be quiet! PURE POWER 13 M 1000 W
My question is: Should I stick with my existing setup and swap the stock NZXT fans for the Arctic P14 models? Does the mainboard control the RGB for all components (except AiO cooling, I’d still need NZXT software for that)? Or should I opt for the H9 Flow RGB+ and replace the Arctic P14 fans?
The price is almost the same, but what matters most to me is system reliability—reading suggests that managing everything via ASUS software is advantageous, with some parts handled by ASUS and others by NZXT. Plus, I think the Arctic P14 fans are superior to the NZXT ones.
Perplexity advises:
(Choose the regular Flow and install Arctic P14)
* Enhances airflow tailored for the H9 Flow’s perforated panels.
* Offers quieter performance at lower to medium speeds, with enough headroom under load.
Only pick the **H9 Flow RGB+** if you need built-in RGB compatibility with NZXT CAM and are okay with higher noise and limited motherboard control.
Thanks in advance!
I’m based in Austria, and all parts will be bought from www.alza.at
My monitor is a 32-inch 4K Gigabyte one.
This is my first post here, so if it’s proper etiquette, I can adjust the text to match the template. But since I already have everything, my main concern now is how to handle RGB lighting.
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!
If I were you, I’d consider using the fans that come with the case. If you notice they’re too loud or want to replace them, then investing in aftermarket options makes sense.
Also, having a mounting spot for a fan doesn’t automatically mean you should install one.
Regarding your question about the lighting and fans in the H9 Flow RGB+ case;
https://cdn-g.nzxt.com/dl/P05-0000045_H9 Flow_Print Manual_250120_V3.pdf
page 1, pointer 7 explains that the fans are exclusive to the hub and require a specific USB2/0 header connection on the motherboard.
If I were you, I’d steer clear of the NZXT H9 Flow RGB+ because the fans would be useless, and you’d end up spending more for a case without fans or using your own ARGB/RGB fans instead.
This situation mainly appeals to brand enthusiasts who favor NZXT products and continue using NZXT fans. Unless you prefer NZXT and stick with their fans, it’s not worthwhile to purchase this case. It’s better to opt for a standard case, as upgrading the fans would be beneficial.
I followed the same approach when I bought my Corsair 760T V2 Black case years ago. There was no option to disable case fans, so the case came with three Corsair AL140L fans, which are quite mediocre. I upgraded them with Corsair ML Pro LED series fans.
There’s no need to fill every slot, but it’s important. To achieve optimal airflow while minimizing noise, placing as many fans as possible inside the PC case is advisable. A 140mm fan is preferable over a 120mm one because it moves more air and operates quieter despite having the same specifications.
Although installing 5 to 7 fans might seem noisy, the opposite is true. The key is that with more fans inside, each one requires less effort to maintain proper airflow, resulting in reduced noise. This principle explains why I use seven high-end Corsair ML Pro LED fans in my Skylake and Haswell builds (Corsair ML Pro LED and NZXT AER140 RGB). Mostly 140mm, though a few 120mm are included as well. All specifications with pictures are available in my profile. Because of the number of fans I have, I can keep them all spinning between 800 - 1100 RPM, which keeps my PCs quiet yet delivers adequate airflow in my full-tower ATX cases.
Based on fan counts, it seems OP prioritizes placing the radiator at the side for intake, with three bottom intakes, three top exhausts, and one rear exhaust. This setup aims for positive pressure. Although this might not be ideal for temperatures, it offers good dust protection thanks to filtered intakes.
I'm on the other side of the spectrum. I'd go for non-unicorn diahrea and add your own fans. It'll be a bit more costly initially, but in the long run you'll enjoy better performance and quieter operation.
I do agree with you about avoiding overcrowding the fans.
1) You should have control over neutral or slightly negative pressure.
2) The benefits of more fans don't always match the costs.
@Aeacus
ninja'd me. I was actually replying to @Lutfij.
Edit: Try to locate the 2022 H9. I almost bought the 2024 H7 because I really love my H7 from 2022 and its build quality is poor. Unless space issues prevent it.
Hi everyone,
Thanks for your prompt response! I recall using this forum to assist in assembling my previous PC, which still had a GTX970. It worked well, so I’m excited about this new build.
To be clear, since my first post wasn’t very specific: I’m curious whether I should choose the RGB+ option—already equipped with fans—or opt for the standard version and purchase my own RGB fans. The cost is almost the same; what matters most is achieving the best result.
As you know, the ideal approach would be to stick with the standard configuration (or even look for a 2022 H9) and swap out the built-in non-RGB fans for custom RGB ones, which could offer better performance and durability. The mainboard would then manage these RGB fans.
Do you have any additional tips or advice? I mainly plan to play games, handle light office tasks, and surf, so I assume 32 GB should suffice. My previous 970 build had 16 GB, so 32 seems like a solid upgrade. However, many people nowadays use 64 GB. Is that really necessary for me? I suppose it’s something I could add later, but I wanted to ask for some opinions right away.
EDIT: I just realized I missed a sentence at the end, Aeacus. So, if I understand correctly, my fan layout isn’t ideal? Based on what I know about the H9 Flow, it has 3 fans at the bottom, 3 at the top (the AIO ones, which would be on top of my 7 fans), 3 in front/side, and one at the back. That means 7 "normal" fans and 3 for the AIO. The front/side and bottom would draw in air, while the back and top would expel it. Is that a good plan? Also, does fan size really matter? I want to get Arctic RGB fans that are 140mm, but the standard NZXT ones in the Flow RGB+ case are larger. Is that better or worse?
That's the standard airflow setup and would do fine. Albeit, gives you positive pressure.
In my builds, and due to the case, i have:
2x 140mm front intake
1x 120mm bottom intake
3x 140mm top exhaust
1x 140mm rear exhaust
Resulting in a (slight) negative pressure. Better for cooling, but a bit more dust. Then again, i have all intakes and rest of the case grille covered with aftermarket Demciflex filters (best ones out there), so, dust isn't an issue in by build.
It does but to an extent.
Fans come in many sizes: 80mm, 92mm, 120mm, 140mm, 200mm, 210mm, 220mm are the ones you can see in PCs.
80/92mm fans used to be common place, now, only for small mini-ITX builds.
120/140mm fans are standard today.
200/210/220mm fans are included with some of the PC cases, like Cooler Master.
When it comes to fans, there are 3 metrics to look at:
* airflow (usually measured in CFM)
* static pressure (measured in mmH2O)
* noise (measured in dB(A) )
The bigger the fan - the more surface area it has, thus CFM value increases, as fan size increases.
Static pressure comes down to the fan blade design. Thick/wide blades produce better static pressure than thin blades with big gaps in between them. Static pressure is the airflow force. E.g for a rad fan, with considerable restrictions in airflow, you want to have high static pressure fan, so that fan is powerful enough to push air through restrictions.
And noise depends on two factors: fan RPM and how much restrictions there are in the airflow.
While 200+mm fan may seem like a good idea due to the very high airflow (CFM) they have, they are actually poor fans. 200+mm fans usually operate 600-900 RPM tops, and with low RPM, they can't produce enough static pressure. Sure, they are quiet as well but you need unobstructed airflow path for them. In a PC case, there are several restrictions. Heck, even the front mesh is a restriction.
So, 200+mm fans are essentially only for eyecandy. Nice to look at but do poorly cooling wise.
This leaves the 120mm vs 140mm option.
For the most part, 140mm fan moves more air than 120mm fan. And does it more quietly (lower RPM). But 120mm fans can have better static pressure.
An example;
Noctua NF-A12/14x25 G2 PWM fans:
120mm, specs:
https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a12...cification
140mm, specs:
https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-a14...cification
At full tilt;
120mm - 63.15 CFM, 3.14 mmH2O, 22.5 dB(A), 1800 RPM.
140mm - 91.58 CFM, 2.56 mmH2O, 24.8 dB(A), 1500 RPM.
With LNA (low-noise) adapter (
specs
);
120mm - 51.32 CFM, 1.71 mmH2O, 18.1 dB(A), 1500 RPM.
140mm - 74.81 CFM, 1.3 mmH2O, 19.7 dB(A), 1250 RPM.
As you can see, 120mm fan has worse airflow but better static pressure than 140mm fan. Also, slightly quieter as well.
But if you run the fans at reduced speeds (e.g with LNA adapter), 140mm fan will beat 120mm fan at full tilt, with more airflow (74.81 CFM vs 63.15 CFM) and less noise (19.7 dB(A) vs 22.5 dB(A) ). But offers less static pressure (1.3 mmH2O vs 3.14 mmH2O).
So, for rad fans, where static pressure is needed, look for high static pressure fans. Though, AIO already comes with proper rad fans and you don't need to replace them.
But for case airflow fans, where static pressure isn't that needed, 140mm fan is better suited than 120mm fan.
Flow RGB+ fans are the same 140mm size as the ones you plan to go with. So, size wise, 0 difference.
Flow RGB+ case itself doesn't support bigger fan than 140mm. So, how it can have bigger fans than 140mm in there?
What bothers me is the wiring of the fans. With Arctic you have to connect the fans together using the exposed cables sticking out from each one. With NZXT everything is already assembled and only one cable comes out of each three-fan group, which seems like a cleaner option if you value a tidy appearance. Another point is whether you're concerned about the overall look. Neither the NZXT nor Arctic fans have reverse blade designs, so the side and bottom fans are positioned with the back facing inward. If the back and AIO fans are mounted with the back facing outward, it would appear odd to anyone paying attention to the design.
Sorry, my mistake, you are right, they are the same size. I mixed things up, thank you for the detailed explanation about fans! Could you clarify how you achieve positive or negative pressure? I think yours is negative, as the 120mm bottom intake "pushes" the air in due to higher static pressure. Regarding your questions, would it be advisable to purchase dust filters and include them in your setup? Yes, that would be necessary. For appearance, the RGB+ model is recommended. There’s no way to conceal the cables effectively. The reverse blades will hide the RGB lights, and since you’re looking at the back of the fan, you won’t see any RGB illumination in your current configuration.
Cable organization tips
Here’s a picture of my setup with organized cables:
Spoiler: Click for image
Three 140mm NZXT AER140 RGB fans on top, each with its own cable. No loose wires.
Skylake build. Full specs and more photos in my profile.
More intake = higher positive pressure. More exhaust = higher negative pressure.
Balanced fan sizes (e.g., 2x 140mm intake + 2x 140mm exhaust) give neutral pressure.
Watch this airflow video:
(PC case shown here, black version)
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh6F2eccMec
My case isn’t negative pressure because of the 120mm fan’s static, but because I have more exhaust fans than intake.
With 6 fans controlled via external controller, adjusting speeds lets me tweak pressures as needed. Usually I keep it slightly negative.
Ask: prefer a filter that’s easy to clean or one that lets you clear dust from all hidden spots?
Spoiler: My kit (click here) includes a Demciflex set for Corsair 760T – front, top, two bottom, two rear filters.
Once dust is trapped: magnetic filters are simple to remove and clean.
Demciflex link: https://www.demcifilter.com/why-demciflex
Sure, I get it. For the front or side where it mentions "up to 420mm," should I purchase this filter, or am I misunderstanding? After getting it, would I install it behind the fans inside the case, and is there a fan control unit involved? That fan control unit is interesting, but it might cost another 500€ later.