Which component is failing: the motherboard or the CPU?
Which component is failing: the motherboard or the CPU?
So today (5mins ago) I started one of my pcs and it didnt do anything, I pressed the power button and nothing, unplugged the power cable, waited 10 seconds plugged it back and nothing. Then cleared CMOS and it booted. MB: Asus P6T SE CPU: I7-920 2.67Ghz @ 3.8Ghz RAM: 4x4Gb DDR3 1600Mhz Yesterday I tried to set the Uncore Clock a bit higher than double the Ram speed (since someone said on a forum that he got more performance with setting it much higher (but it was a 4. gen I7)) and it corrupted the BIOS. Not sure how but it booted to "Boot Block Compatible version ....." and I couldnt do anything, I shorted the CMOS pins to reset BIOS and it worked. After that I set the Uncore Clock to Auto, since I dont want to kill this PC. So, anyone knows whats happening? Am I killing the BIOS chip or the CPU? But to me this seems a software issue because I can fix it with a CMOS reset. But im not sure if this will do that every single day.
Uncertain about the setup since you're using an ASUS board with a BIOS programmer like ch341a. Consider flashing to Rampage III Extreme or at least P6X58D Deluxe if the former doesn<|pad|>. Lower-end ASUs often have limited BIOS options, so this upgrade could improve stability. I've already updated my P5Q Pro Turbo BIOS and noticed a clear difference in performance. You might also benefit from better bandwidth, which could enhance stability. Regarding your BIOS settings, let me know if you're planning to overclock. Also, try running Prime95—small FFT errors can indicate unstable CPU performance, while large ones suggest RAM issues.
You can update the Rampage III BIOS without needing a dedicated programmer tool. Just ensure your system meets the hardware requirements and that you're using compatible firmware versions. Regarding BIOS corruption, it's possible but usually temporary; if the system still functions normally after flashing, it might not be a permanent hardware failure. For the Xeon upgrade, checking compatibility with your motherboard and ensuring proper power delivery will be key. Since you haven’t tested stability tools, consider running a stress test after the update to catch any issues early.
Possessing a USB flashing module is beneficial yet not essential. As long as it connects with the BIOS chip, it should function properly. Standard flashing methods will certainly work, though software limitations exist. For instance, using a different board model might trigger a BIOS rejection, often resulting in errors like "This file not for this board." The module remains unaffected and proceeds with the flash if possible. Regarding corruption, it can usually be resolved by re-flashing the chip once it's accessible. This doesn't imply the board is unusable, just that its BIOS may be faulty and unable to operate correctly. If the board won't boot during flashing, recovery typically requires a programmer or specialized tool. Having such a module can be invaluable, saving money and effort repeatedly. It’s worth acquiring if possible and using it when needed. Just remember, you’ll need another functional machine to operate it; otherwise, a malfunctioning primary unit could be problematic. Fortunately, many modern boards now support recovery from BIOS issues. Occasionally, over-OCping can induce corruption, as seen with older DFI boards, but it often resolves itself. In summary: excessive over-OC may cause problems, but a properly reset board is usually safe. Ensure the battery stays above 2.9 volts to prevent further damage.
I often feel anxious, so I hoped things wouldn’t be a complete failure. Your words now confirm it’s just functioning properly at the moment. This isn’t the only machine I own—I have a Ryzen 7 main system, this is just for testing, tweaking, and college use. There are also other components involved. It seems I’ll need a BIOS programmer, not just for this board but also for another one with a modified BIOS. I purchased an Asus M5A97 EVO R2.0 used, which has a custom BIOS (I wasn’t aware of that). It’s not a ROG motherboard, but it includes a ROG BIOS. Unfortunately, it doesn’t support flashing via the BIOS menu, and it says the board isn’t compatible. My motherboard is deteriorating, so I’m forced to reset the BIOS twice every time it boots—first it won’t start, then I reset it, save the settings, reset again, and finally it remembers everything until it powers up. But it still overclocks quite well. I haven’t tried flashing this board with an unsupported BIOS, because I’m certain it wouldn’t allow that. What does a weak CMOS battery mean? Are you referring to the voltage requirement—should it be around 2.9V or higher? How can I verify this? Probably using HWINFO, but which sensor is it? Lastly, if you ever need a replacement BIOS chip (besides this one or another), where should you look? Would Ebay or Aliexpress be a good option, or is Amazon unavailable in my region?
You definitely need a USB programmer like the ch341a, but because the BIOS chip is removable it makes flashing much simpler. It’s absolutely worth the investment for around four dollars, especially compared to the cost of a Pentium E6700 which would only let your P5Q BIOS run at 350 MHz. After flashing a P5Q Pro Turbo BIOS you can push speeds up to about 450 MHz or more. That chip is outdated, but a cheap 6-core Xeon like the X5675 will perform much better than a Nehalem i7. If you don’t mind the performance, I’d just keep it running until it overheats around 95-100°C. For your CPU model, aim for a max temperature of 95-100°C. OC it as much as possible, maybe even upgrade to a dual-board setup since these old CPUs struggle to deliver solid results. Your ch341a can be a lifesaver and for that price it’s more than justified—especially if you can fix bad BIOSes or upgrade to better ones.
You've got a solid board in hand (Asus M5A97 EVO R2.0), not quite like a Sabretooth or Crosshair but capable of handling tasks if needed. It's wise to remember that daily builds aren't usually optimized—don’t try to overclock unless necessary. For the battery, aim for at least 2.9 volts or more to avoid issues like BIOS corruption or strange behavior. Measure it with a voltmeter: the positive side is marked +, the negative side -; connect the probes to those points for an accurate reading. A fresh battery usually reads around 3.0 volts, which is fine unless the BIOS doesn’t display it clearly. In the US, ordering from this supplier might be tricky, but biosdepot on eBay ships worldwide—check the seller details and confirm the revision matches your needs. I’ve placed orders before and they functioned well, even getting the latest BIOS updates included. Just be sure to specify the exact board model and revision when contacting them.
This device runs on a base clock of 2.67Ghz, and I could easily boost it to around 3.8Ghz with just a modest voltage drop of 1.144V. Pushing it even higher is straightforward, costing only about 9€ for a replacement. In the meantime, I’m planning to upgrade to a hexa-core Xeon once I can afford it. I’ve been testing Phenom II quad and hexa core configurations, but those tend to struggle with overclocking—especially the quad Phenom II X4 965, which jumped from 3.4Ghz to 3.8Ghz and quickly overheated, needing a higher voltage than what an older i7 would need to hit 4.1-4.2Ghz. I used a decent aftermarket cooler, the Be Quiet Pure Rock Slim, which is a budget option with low thermal density. In terms of temperature performance, this i7 outperforms them significantly; even basic tasks feel smoother. For daily overclocking, I attempted it but found the CPU still performs well (R7 2700X), so I disabled turbo boost and now it runs at 3.7Ghz. Because of its compact design, it stays cool even with the stock cooler.
When you look at it alongside the Westmere 6 cores, it makes sense. However, when compared to an AMD FX, it could really stand out. Since it's a budget ASUS CPU and 6-core Xeons are generally more capable yet still affordable, focus on it until you reach around 95-105°C (or aim for 105°C if stable and voltage is low).
I mean if you look at it next to a newer hexa, it’s pretty bad. But when compared to an older model that still looks weaker than it seems, it actually performs decently. I bought it originally as a CPU and don’t mind if it fails—just don’t push it too hard. I feel it needs more respect, like a piece meant to be remembered after its peak. Maybe I’ll try pushing it above 4GHz and stop once it starts throttling under heat. I’m not sure if a few tests and short bursts at 100°C will be enough, but I’m still a bit concerned.