What's happening with your PC?
What's happening with your PC?
I’ve noticed ongoing problems with my PC connected to a power supply and UPS. The situation started during intense gameplay while playing "Sons of the Forest" at maximum settings. After about 4 to 5 hours, the UPS began making a continuous noise, which later confirmed an overload condition.
Immediately after the noise, my PC began restarting every 20 to 30 minutes until it finally shut down. Even though I set the HDD shutdown option to 0 in power plan settings, the issue continued.
After leaving the PC off for roughly an hour, I tried turning it back on. It failed to start. The next morning, the PC powered on without problems and operated normally for 2 to 3 days under light load, with no further UPS-related issues.
During a recent incident while playing "Stray" at maximum settings, the UPS started beeping again. I checked the CPU and GPU temperatures, usage, and power draw—all within normal limits. Still, the PC wouldn’t turn on after shutdown. I confirmed all connections were secure.
Later, when I connected the PC directly, it also failed to power on. After waiting 3 to 4 hours, it eventually turned on both with and without the UPS. Now, after shutdown, it doesn’t power up immediately; sometimes it takes half an hour or sometimes it just doesn’t.
Note: The motherboard’s RGB lighting and the wired keyboard received power throughout this period, both today and on the day of the first incident. I mentioned games because my PC didn’t behave like it did during other sessions. I played Valorant in between and it ran perfectly.
What might be causing this, and how should I try to resolve it?
The UPS model and part number are specified. The unit's age is provided, and it is clarified whether the UPS was purchased new or used/refurbished.
this
is the model i believe, purchased it brand new about 4 years ago. If the issue is with my ups, why isn't my pc turning on even with direct power from the wall socket?
im so confused what to change rn :'0
Holy hell... square wave output.
😵
UPSes can generate three distinct types of waveforms:
1. Square wave - the most affordable option. Suitable only for tough hardware, such as power generators and motors.
2. Simulated sine wave (also known as stepped-approximated sine wave) - moderate cost. Ideal for most household appliances (e.g., fridges, washing machines, lights).
3. True/pure sine wave - premium price. Matches the quality you get from a wall socket. Only suitable for delicate electronics, like medical devices, TVs, and PC power supplies.
Regarding what has occurred:
My assumption is that your square wave UPS has harmed your PSU, as it delivers the lowest quality electricity, potentially damaging your otherwise decent PSU. This explains why your PC struggles to start, even when bypassing the UPS and connecting directly to the mains.
Solutions:
The only remedy is replacing the component. This means a new, high-quality PSU. If you prefer not to replace your PSU entirely, consider a new UPS with a true/pure sine wave (such as line-interactive models) as well.
Power delivery demands serious attention. You shouldn't compromise on this hardware, especially the PSU and UPS themselves.
For example, if you didn't save money on your PSU and ended up with a reasonably good unit (though it has drawbacks like short hold-up time and poor EMI filtering), then my concern is: Why didn't you invest in a better PSU? For instance, would you consider the Apevia Prestige?
And your second concern too: Why did you opt for a cheaper UPS?
🤔
Recommended good PSUs include: Seasonic Focus/Vertex/PRIME, Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi, Super Flower Leadex Gold/Platinum/Titanium.
(Three PCs I own are also powered by Seasonic. I have two PRIME TX-650 units and one Focus PX-550 unit. Full specifications with pictures are in my profile.)
As for UPS options:
When selecting an UPS, pay attention to two aspects:
1. Output waveform (square wave, simulated sine wave, and true/pure sine wave)
2. Design (stand-by, line-interactive, online)
From there, you can explore differences in output waveforms:
https://suvastika.com/why-choose-a-sinew...erter-ups/
And here are insights on UPS design:
https://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1272971
Understanding waveform and design
For PCs, a line-interactive UPS is usually sufficient because PSUs can manage the 2ms to 5ms transfer time easily.
Regarding output waveform, a true/pure sine wave UPS is optimal. Simulated sine wave models are cheaper but incompatible with PSUs that have Active PFC. Running a simulated sine wave UPS with an Active PFC PSU can lead to problems—here’s what happens, how it occurs, and why.
How do you identify PSUs with Active PFC versus those without?
It’s straightforward: any PSU with 80+ certification (such as 80+ Bronze or 80+ Gold) includes Active PFC.
What is Active PFC?
Further reading:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_fact...near_loads
Consequences of using simulated sine wave UPS with Active PFC PSU:
When a simulated sine wave UPS switches to battery power, three outcomes are possible:
1. The UPS shows an error and forces the PC to shut down.
2. The PC shuts down immediately.
3. The UPS switches to battery, causing the PC to power off (PC remains on).
Why does this occur?
Simulated sine wave UPSes create a zero output during phase changes, resulting in a power gap. This interruption can affect Active PFC PSUs during the transition from AC to simulated sine wave.
What should you do next?
As mentioned, your PC can operate using a simulated sine wave UPS, but be ready for potential issues. If problems arise, consider replacing the simulated sine wave UPS with a true/pure sine wave model. Alternatively, go straight with a true/pure sine wave UPS.
Wattage considerations
When choosing UPS wattage, factor in your PC and monitor power consumption. Don’t forget speakers or Wi-Fi routers if you plan to connect them as well. Printers and scanners, for example, are not recommended since they draw excessive startup power, risking UPS damage.
Setting a baseline for PSU wattage is wise—it provides extra capacity and extends runtime. With your current (and likely new) PSU at 650W, adding one monitor is reasonable. Depending on the monitor size, usage can range from 23W to 52W. For precise consumption data, I need your monitor model so I can look it up. Wi-Fi routers consume minimal power. For instance, my Cisco EPC3940L uses 12V at 3A, which equals 36W.
Recommended UPS brands include CyberPower, TrippLite, and APC. These are among the top choices available.
Note: The more powerful your UPS, the longer it can keep your PC running before the battery runs out.
For your setup, a ~1200VA/750W UPS would suffice.
Example: CyberPower CP1350PFCLCD (1350VA/880W, true/pure sine wave, line-interactive, AVR),
Amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1350...B00429N19M
This model is essentially the same one I intend to purchase to replace my two older CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD units (1300VA/780W, true/pure sine wave, line-interactive, AVR). My current units are six years old. The CP1350PFCLCD is the successor to the CP1300EPFCLCD.
If there was a prize for thorough explanations, I would have taken it right away. I still have seven years of warranty remaining on my PSU, and I plan to try claiming it. But if things don’t go well, the PSUs you mentioned aren’t available in my area—can I follow A tier products instead? Also, I’ll keep an eye on active PFCs, since the best 1200VA units I found were power guards and Apollo, both featuring simulated sine wave: '0
Well, indeed, but the provided list leans heavily in favor of Corsair, while giving less attention to Seasonic. For instance, item [14] mentions that PSU either lacks a proper review or has failed certain parts of the evaluation. Consequently, Seasonic Vertex remains in a speculative state. In contrast, Corsair HXi 2022 also carries the same [14] asterisk, yet it doesn’t have any issues when classified under the "multi/single-rail switchable" category. If the list were completely unbiased, Corsair HXi 2022 would also fall into that speculative category, similar to Seasonic Vertex.
From a build quality standpoint, Seasonic Vertex sits somewhere in the middle between the solid Seasonic Focus and the premium Seasonic PRIME models. All Vertex units come with a 12-year warranty, matching the standard for PRIME units. Focus models, however, have a shorter warranty of 10 years (for semi-modular ones) or 7 years for the standard versions.
A less biased selection would be found in the TH forums, as mentioned in the text. However, that version is a bit old. The most current and accurate recommendations are available on HardwareBusters, with several up-to-date picks for ATX 3.0/PCI-E 5.0 systems. For example, the 650W units can be explored here: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-at...busters/2/
It’s worth noting that simulated sine wave testing might not always be reliable. Personally, I wouldn’t expose my setup to it. Additionally, Amazon ensures worldwide delivery.