What readings are shown on the HWMonitor and are they excessive?
What readings are shown on the HWMonitor and are they excessive?
Main monitor
Samsung Odyssey G7 C27G7 27"
2560x1440 240 hz 1ms G-SYNC on
Second Monitor
Samsung Odyssey G3 S27AG320 27"
1920x1080 165 hz 1ms
Assuming you're referring to in-game settings? In competitive games I usually play with most options at low unless it offers an edge, like dynamic shadows in Counter Strike 2.
Switching between resolutions doesn’t really make a difference here. Also, since I achieved around 400 FPS on this PC with FPS capped at 400 in the older version (CS:GO), I expect better performance now—well over 105-160 FPS. It’s still a newer game, but it shouldn’t be that bad. The CPU usage is typically about 50-60% during play, which seems normal for a graphics-intensive title.
Change your Windows power plan
Watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFPMsq2YwKA
Also disable hardware GPU acceleration, as it may cause issues with certain games.
Open Settings by pressing Win + I
Choose System in the left sidebar
Pick Display from the system settings menu
Scroll down and choose Graphics
Turn off the option for Hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling
Restart your computer
I also recently reinstalled Windows 11 from a USB drive, removing my GPU driver using DDU and then reinstalling it.
Earlier, I ordered a new 2TB NVMe SSD to replace the existing 512GB one, and I also got a new fan to use up the last slot on the motherboard.
Another point I wanted to mention is that I don’t have the original CPU cooler; I received a replacement which improved my CPU temperatures, as they were quite high during gaming with the old one.
I’m not sure if these changes are important, but I wanted to share them.
Some reviewers of this PC say their motherboards usually have larger power supplies than mine—my 380W Platinum PSU, for example, might be too small and could cause performance problems if it didn’t provide enough power.
It’s also possible that replacing it would be difficult because the PSU isn’t modular, and there are reports online about issues with such models having unusual cables or being incompatible with aftermarket parts. For instance, a MOBO model with 10 pins is mentioned in forums, but I haven’t seen any examples of it being used.
Your Time Spy results are quite limited, given your RAM speed capped at 2400MT/s instead of the expected 3200MT/s. You should anticipate reduced performance as a result. Also, remember that memory is measured in MT/s, not megahertz per second—some may misunderstand this detail, but it’s crucial. Providing such information can be helpful in discussions.
What kind of CPU cooler are you using? The original model? Could you share some photos of the inside of your case, including any fan positions?
All temperature readings appear normal. Your VR VCC temperature can reach up to 105°C before you need to worry, and 125°C is usually a serious issue that may lead to shutdowns or throttling.
Personally, since the temperatures seem acceptable for this component, enabling XMP settings on the board could significantly boost your Time Spy scores and overall performance. Many factors are sensitive to memory speed.
What concerns you most is the condition of your PSU. It seems either underpowered or completely failing. Looking at the specifications for the Lenovo 3741 (ITE IT8638E), I noticed that your 3.3V rail reads 2.136V, the 5V rail shows 3.333V, and the 12V rail is at 8.589V. Unless the board is misreporting these values—though they’re close to what you’d expect with a multimeter—these discrepancies suggest a possible PSU issue. This could be impacting system stability.
If those readings are accurate, it’s surprising that your system isn’t shutting down or powering off immediately. I recommend checking the PSU voltage readings in HWmonitor to confirm consistency. These systems typically come with reliable power supplies suitable for basic hardware, but not ideal for high-end setups like yours.
Manufacturers often use cheaper power supplies to boost profits, which can lead to compatibility problems. If your system is proprietary, swapping the PSU might be challenging or impossible.
What model of PSU do you have on the side of the unit? We need to confirm whether it’s a standard ATX PSU or something else.
Sorry for the delayed response; I was extremely exhausted while fighting to install my new 2TB NVMe drive and a fresh Noctua fan to complete the final slot in my case. It failed miserably. There was a peculiar rubber screw designed to secure the NVMe, and I nearly injured my fingers trying to remove it. It felt like it was super glued together. The Noctua fan came with rubber screws that didn’t hold, leaving it unstable. Although the SSD is excellent, I anticipate needing to tackle the fan issue again later and improving my cable management in this setup.
I chose MHz instead of Mt/s because, in my country, shops and retailers use that measurement for speed ratings. I’m from Finland.
My cooler is a Blackstorm Luna 4PS-120MM ARGB model. The issue here is that I can no longer fully close the side panel of my PC—it’s about 1cm too high. This is partly my fault for not considering its size during installation. If I wanted to, I could open it since the case is made of cheap metal and might bend under pressure. I currently have an older Intel cooler, and I’m contemplating attaching the Noctua fan to it so I can close the case. I’m also looking into a 92mm CPU cooler, but the temperatures are unusually low compared to what they were before.
This board doesn’t support XMP profiles. After checking BIOS multiple times, it seems the feature is hidden and confirmed by a reviewer.
I also have the stock 16GB DDR4 RAM running at 3200 Mt/s, but performance-wise, I expect only a small difference—maybe 5 or 10 FPS—compared to my 32GB @ 2400 Mt/s setup.
The motherboard and PSU are solid components that shouldn’t be replaced easily. The motherboard uses a 10-pin cable from the nonmodular PSU, which I’ve heard Lenovo offers adapters from 10 to 24 pins. I’m hesitant to risk damaging my board by using those, so I plan to upgrade both at a later date if everything else works.
The PSU listed on Lenovo’s website is the PWR_SUPPLY 100-240Vac TFX380W 92% Platinum.
This machine has two fans: one in the top left and another in the bottom right. I was struggling to fit a third fan in the top right as a second intake. The cables are messy because I’m still working on fixing it, trying to make space for the new fan. I can’t fix them until I decide whether to install the fan or revert to using the stock cooler with the existing fan. The CPU cooler also has a 120mm fan, so I’m considering a 92mm model, but the one I have is smaller than expected—probably taken from my old Intel cooler. I zipped it into the case’s top right corner, which is frustrating. My fingers are badly damaged from trying to pull the rubber clips from the NVMe heatsink. It feels like every part of this PC was designed to be difficult. I almost want to email Lenovo and vent my frustration.
No, the explanation is that many companies and individuals claim megahertz numbers, but this is incorrect. Even some major PC hardware stores don’t handle this accurately. The issue isn’t tied to a specific country—it’s about understanding that MHz and MT/s are not the same thing. One measures the frequency of a device or component, while the other describes data transfer speed between parts.
Many people refer to automobile engines as "motors," which is completely inaccurate. Engines are not motors; they are electrical machines that work through internal combustion. It’s important to stay accurate and avoid misusing terminology, so you’re well-informed about what you know.
The stock memory operates at 3200 MT/s even without enabling XMP on that board. I haven't encountered a board in the era of XMP, A-XMP, AMP or EXPO profiles where manual memory speed adjustment was possible without the option to activate the XMP profile. Alternatively, if the BIOS automatically sets the memory and it's functioning correctly with your stock memory, it should also work with aftermarket options unless the memory isn't compatible. In that case, it would revert to the default 2400 MT/s speed since it's the only viable option. Another consideration is avoiding prebuilt and OEM systems if you anticipate needing higher performance in the future.
Regarding your PSU, it's a TFX form factor power supply. There are limited upgrade options available, and they're generally not very effective. In your situation, these upgrades are scarce and often subpar. If you're planning to invest further into this system, you might want to reassess whether continuing is worthwhile, given the current limitations and the risk of wasting money on insufficient power.
You already possess a PSU, CPU, storage, and graphics card. The only real upgrade needed would be a new PSU, motherboard, and case—options that are not overly costly. This would allow you to customize your setup as desired and avoid future complications.
Keep in mind that hardware availability and quality can vary significantly between countries. While it's possible to achieve better results elsewhere, the current situation doesn't offer a clear advantage over what you have now.
I also appreciate Finland; I'd love to visit someday. One of the most popular YouTubers, Peter McKinnon, has a good friend there in Finland named Matti Haapoja. He's quite impressive and would be great to meet one day.
Even if this isn't feasible right now, it's something you should consider in the future, depending on your financial situation. It could be a worthwhile investment if you can afford better components later.
PCPartPicker Part List
Motherboard:
Gigabyte B760M GAMING DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard
(€108.90 @ Datatronic)
Case:
Deepcool MATREXX 55 MESH ATX Mid Tower Case
(€52.90 @ Datatronic)
Power Supply:
SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply
(€84.90 @ Datatronic)
Total:
€246.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by
PCPartPicker
2025-02-27 06:11 EET+0200
I was browsing new motherboard, case, and power supply combinations when I placed my order for the new NVMe drive. That’s also when I learned about the potential incompatibility of these parts with only certain Lenovo boards. I understand that the CPU, RAM, and NVMe can be adjusted, but I haven’t found any details about my RTX 3060 (12GB). When I ran the Time Spy test, beneath the GPU information it showed a vendor as Lenovo, which made me wonder if I could still use it on another board. I think the 6+2 cable might work, but what about the slot where you connect the card directly to the motherboard?
If the GPU is fine, I’d consider buying new components each month, especially high-quality ones that I could reuse later. Having a case with hidden cables or extra space would be great, along with better cooling so my temperatures don’t spike during diagnostics. A larger PSU would also be useful in case I decide to swap the card in the future.
We have a store here dedicated to PC accessories and they frequently run “Upgrade Kit” promotions, offering quality parts at lower prices. It seems like the only place where I can find everything quickly is there.
I accidentally pressed a side button on my mouse and ended up on this page. I still remember the expression on my face when I realized I had to start over. I really love this site for saving unfinished thoughts after leaving it.
Regarding the RAM I bought, it works at 3200 MT/s with XMP enabled, whereas without XMP it stays at 2400 MT/s. I wasn’t told anything about that during purchase, so I’m curious what the reviewer was saying. It seems the default speed is higher if you enable XMP, but I don’t know how stock RAM handles such speeds. Maybe upgrading to a new board could push it to 3200 MT/s eventually. If that happens, I might be able to use this Lenovo board as intended, replacing a stone in stone skipping.
Any current graphics card can fit on any modern motherboard. I mean, if it was released in the past decade or so. There are some rare exceptions here, but your setup should work perfectly. All consumer motherboard slots, no matter the chipset, brand, or model, have been PCIe x16 ports for at least the last fifteen years. Before that, most boards used PCIe 2.0, and some older ones won’t support modern PCIe 3.0 or newer cards because they don’t have BIOS updates. Anything from 2010 onward should work fine. Your card is completely compatible with any board you choose.