What method is used to remove modular PSU cables?
What method is used to remove modular PSU cables?
Hello, many people have asked about mixing PSU cables, but few have thought about matching them correctly after mixing. I didn’t expect this problem and ended up putting all my cables in one zip-lock bag, making it hard to tell which ones belong to which PSU. It seems I might have mixed cables from my new PSU into my old one, and possibly even some from my new PSU into the old one.
The cables are unmarked and look identical except for a few empty "placeholder" pins. For example, my old PSU is a Corsair CX750M, but it doesn’t match the version sold on Newegg. According to its specs online, it’s a 750-watt 80+ bronze unit, though I’m not sure what it actually is. The new one is a Rosewill Hive-1000s 1000-watt 80+ bronze.
My main concerns are whether the cables work together and if they’re compatible. Since the CX750M is only partially modular and its power components aren’t detachable, I’m unsure about others. If they don’t fit, I need to figure out which cables came from which PSU.
Thanks!
So after several difficult conversations with Corsair support, they informed me that their cables are marked with labels such as "punkncat," "Type 3," or "Type 4." The newer versions seem to have the markings carved into the connectors themselves. However, upon closer inspection, I noticed the labels were in white text printed on the connectors, whereas my cables are outdated and the print is nearly gone. The label is located on the power supply side of the cable.
Hi thank you. I noticed others mentioned differences in the PSU side of the cables. If you connect the cables to the PSU and perform a voltage test on the other sides, what are you checking for? How can I help determine the correct voltage values for the cables you're using with your PSU?
I recently discovered from Corsair that they mark the cables (on current models) with a "Type #" designation. All the SF PSUs I own from them are labeled as Type 4, making them compatible with each other.
This won't function unless you possess a genuine PSU tester, as it requires a proper load to operate correctly.
Yes, there are additional methods to match cables with PSUs.
Beyond the printed labels on the cables, there are no other ideas to consider.
Rosewill tech support said there isn't a way to tell which is which, still waiting to see if Corsair can be more helpful. Rosewill won't even provide a pinout diagram so I can check if the cables are compatible.
But lets say I can't figure it out, would incompatible cables cause problems immediately? In other words, does the fact that my build has been working for a couple of hours mean that I don't have an electrical issue? Or could it take some time before something bad happens?