Water cooling pc getting hot
Water cooling pc getting hot
Many helpful suggestions here, but... it might just be a basic flush or refill needed. Ensure your CPU or GPU blocks aren't blocked by buildup, which is common in mayhem's dies if the rads weren't cleaned thoroughly before installation. While I was doing that, I'd also consider remounting with quality thermal paste.
while i wouldn't eliminate the possibility of a flush
still seems like an air flow problem to me
just rewatched it
do you have a rear exhaust fan?
if not, that's a significant part of the issue
i would
swap the top rad for an intake—with fans on the opposite side pushing air in
move the fans on the front rad to the other side pushing air in
and install a rear fan at the exhaust—
N0ns3ns3 :
2. the issue lies in the design – it’s a very poorly constructed build, similar to phanteks EVOL cases that are essentially useless for liquid cooling. The hot air from the top radiator just reflects back into the case when the lid is closed.
Evolv is widely recognized and strongly suggested as the best setup for water cooling. Still, it’s crucial in any project to place the fans correctly... Radiator fans must always be positioned to draw in fresh air, without exceptions. If they’re forced to push air out, it can create a negative pressure case. This not only draws dust from the rear grille and vents but also pulls in hot air from the back of the case, which contains the PSU and graphics card exhaust. You can easily see this with a "smoke can" – a product used to test smoke detectors.
The front fans of the radiator are blowing air inside, while the upper ones are blowing out. There are two issues: cooling the coolant with preheated air and more fans blowing out than being sucked in by the PSU and GPU exhaust. I don't understand your radiator sizes... Upper one... is it 120 x 360mm with three 120mm fans? Or 140 x 420mm with three 140mm fans? Lower one... is it 140 x 240mm with two 120mm fans? Or 140 x 280mm with two 140mm fans? How did they get so damaged? I saw a lot of bent fins in that video.
JackNaylorPE: 1. Determine your radiator capacity to help select the right rads Use the provided estimator: http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radia...-estimator (2) 970s = 400 watts 6700k = 90 watts With no water block on MoBo, total is around 490 watts Apply 8 x 120mm of rad / fans for a 10C temperature difference at 1250 rpm 7 x 120mm of rad / fans for a 10C difference at 1400 rpm 5 x 120mm of rad / fans for a 10C difference at 1800 rpm 6 x 140mm rad / fans for a 10C difference at 1250 rpm 5 x 140mm rad / fans for a 10C difference at 1400 rpm 4 x 140mm rad / fans for a 10C difference at 1800 rpm 2. Identify the system parts, flow rates, fan specifications and model details. 3. Is the block sealed tightly? 4. I prefer pre-made coolants that already contain corrosion inhibitors and anti-aging agents. 5. The radiator appears heavily used; adding fans in push or pull can boost cooling by 10-30%. 6. Radiator fans must always be connected to intakes. 7. Fill the reservoir to about 80% to eliminate swirl effects that trap air and lower flow efficiency. 8. Flow rate seems reduced 9. Airflow also seems diminished if panel removal significantly lowered temperatures. I also have an Excel sheet with these calculations – it’s linked in the sticky post.
Radiator dimensions are 360 mm on top and 240 mm at the front. The case is made of aluminium Phanteks. I put the front and upper panels back and played for a while. The front radiator appears fine; both sides have four fans blowing inwards, and even when touching the front panel, it feels cool. The upper side is the issue—removing it resolves the problem, at least reaching reasonable temperatures. I plan to replace the fans so they blow inside, possibly adding three more for each side and a rear fan. I might also try different cooling modes for the upper panel. The only concern now is the coolant. Should I just add some distilled water or change it entirely? The coolant color has turned red-pink, and I’d like to change it back to clear, although I haven’t done this before and only saw it in some videos. I’ll consider some tutorials and brands for premixed coolant and thank you all very much.
pinzariandrei :
Radiator size are upper 360 mm and front 240 mm.
Case is aluminium Phanteks.
Put the front and upper panels back, played for a while.
The front radiator it looks fine, it have 4 fans from both sides blowing inside, even when I'm putting my hand on front panel it is chill.
The upper side its the problem, as soon taken off the problem disappear, at leas reasonable temps.
I will change fans to blow inside, even buy 3 more to be on both sides, and a rear one. Maybe I will do some mode for upper panel.
The only thing now is coolant. Should I just add some distilled water? or change it all?
The colour of coolant now is redis would prefer to change it all, obviously I haven't done this before and seen only in some videos
the front rad is fine then
just move the top rad fans to above the radiator blowing in wards
and most importantly put a rear exhaust fan it should make a good difference
if you want to change coolant colour
you will not only need to drain the coolant out
but also flush the whole thing through thoroughly as the red will take a bit of getting rid off
I also have an active Excel sheet that does this - it's linked in the sticky.
I can't check the forum post directly since I can't access it, so I can't verify the formulas. The spreadsheets provided were confirmed by my MartinsLiquidlLab.
Phanteks, what exactly? I can't give specific advice without knowing the exact model. It's like ordering spark plugs for a different car—my shop can't help much with "Blue Chevy".
Again, that top part seems damaged, as some Phanteks models have a removable filter under the grille.
Having fans blow inside would be a big improvement. It not only cools the coolant with fresh air but also prevents hot exhaust from entering the case.
I think premixed coolant is better than other choices... sources suggest Swiftech and similar options are available.