Water cooling pc getting hot
Water cooling pc getting hot
I purchased a used water-cooled PC and it becomes hot during gameplay (Witcher 3, Hellblade, CSGO). The CPU and GPU aren’t overclocked. The i7 6700k CPU can reach up to 80-85°C according to realtemp GT, while the GPUs (two GTX 970) max out around 75°C. The room temperature is about 22°C. The coolant reservoir is filled roughly 20%, so it needs refilling. I’m considering using distilled water (Mayhems DYE ultra pure) and silver coil or chemicals. Which is better between the two? Should I use chemicals alone, or both? Are there any anti-corrosion recommendations? I’ve already removed the front and upper panels, which reduced temperatures by about 20°C for both CPU and GPU. I made a short video to help clarify things. A link is provided. Will changing the coolant help, or is this a persistent issue? Please advise, as I’m new to all this.
I also have an active Excel sheet that does this - you can find it in the sticky. The link is 1. I haven’t located the "theoretical formulas" using voltage squared to match actual readings. I’m unable to check the sticky since I can’t access it, and the spreadsheets I received were confirmed by my MartinsLiquidlLab. 2. Phanteks, what’s up? Can’t give specific advice without knowing the exact model. Ordering spark plugs for a car isn’t helpful when you’re dealing with a "Blue Chevy." 3. The top part seems damaged, as seen in some cases where a removable filter under the grille is present. 4. Putting fans inside would be a big deal.
I determined those temperatures by reviewing the short video provided. I examined what was tested on it. Looking at the radiators and fans, they seem fairly dirty. Checking for dust accumulation would help clarify the situation.
You should notice the pump actively moving water through the system. For the fluid, using a premix or a combination of distilled water with a biocide would be effective.
reviewing your video
seems like the pumps are functioning—though it might require higher RPMs. Adjusting coolant levels probably won’t help much, but adding a little to the reservoir could be useful. The drop of 20°C when removing the top and front panels points to an airflow issue rather than a loop problem.
I have my own i7 6700 (non 'K') running below 60°C underwater even without the panels, which means it's still warm enough for a liquid loop cooled system. I tend to use premixed coolant that already contains corrosion inhibitors and biocide, but if you prefer to make your own, go ahead—it’s the best way to achieve the desired color in the coolant, though performance won’t change much.
I’m not sure how the coolant is actually circulating; it looks disorganized with all those 'T' and 'Y' components, which probably isn’t helping much. However, since removing the front and top panels makes a big difference, it seems the air filters need cleaning, the panels are too tight, and the fans might need more speed or better models.
Also, the direction of the fans is unclear—are they blowing in, out, or a mix? Replumbing the system could be beneficial; I’d suggest this order: Pump > GPU1 > GPU2 > Top radiator > CPU > Front radiator > Res.
it would help if you shared the RPM of the pump—though it’s definitely worth checking the movement in the res, at least confirming it’s functioning. Also, please let us know the RPMs of the rad fans and whether there are any fans blowing in or out on the rads, as that would be useful. Coozie7 mentioned some agreement about the t/y pieces, though it wasn’t clear from the video. It wasn’t very easy to see the entire loop at once, so a longer video from a slightly different angle might clarify what’s happening.
Here is the revised version of your text:
1. Determine the radiator size needed for sizing rads.
Refer to the estimator at http://www.overclock.net/t/1457426/radia...-estimator.
(2) For 970s, expect around 400 watts; for 6700k, about 90 watts.
Assuming no water block on the MoBo, that equates to 490 watts.
With 8 pieces of 120mm rad/fan setup, achieving a 10C temperature difference at 1250 rpm.
7 pieces of 120mm for 10C at 1400 rpm.
5 pieces for 10C at 1800 rpm.
6 pieces of 140mm rad/fans for 10C at 1250 rpm.
8 pieces for 10C at 1400 rpm.
7. What system components are involved? What is the flow rate? Which fans are recommended, along with their sizes and speeds? Provide the model details.
8. Is the block sealed tightly?
9. I prefer using pre-made coolants that already contain corrosion inhibitors and anti-aging agents.
10. The radiator appears to have been subjected to heavy use. Adding fans in push or pull mode can boost cooling by 10–30%.
11. Radiator fans should always be connected as intakes; no exceptions.
12. Fill the reservoir to about 80% capacity to eliminate swirl effects that trap air and hinder flow.
13. The observed flow rate seems reduced.
14. Improving airflow also seems limited if panel removal significantly lowered temperatures.
The amount of liquid in the reservoir has no connection to the high temperatures. You should add some liquid to stop air from drawing into the loop. Use distilled water as the red die is meant to hold the biocide and anti-corrosive agents.
Radiators are free of dust.
Front fans are blowing inside, upper ones outside.
I'm not familiar much with Y T yet, so I'm testing temperatures using MSI Afterburner.
The radiator size is approximately 40 cm long, 12 cm wide, and 2.5 cm thick. The front one measures 30x12x2.5 cm.
I've conducted some tests, but removing the upper and front panels still shows normal temperatures.
Witcher all ultra even hair works.
The second image suggests CPU stress; if fans run at max speed, the CPU reaches about 75°C, while at 50% it's around 82°C.
I'll provide an update once panels are included.
http://imgur.com/a/IIxIA
as a comparison
if i drop my 7700k to default—4500/4.5ghz with turbo enabled on all cores—the same size radiators as yours are present, which is a 360mm radiator in the top and 240mm in front. The radiator size refers to the fans it can handle, not their full length. Therefore, three 120mm fans would cover a 360mm radiator, even if the total length is 400mm. My radiators are positioned identically to yours, but both draw air in through the radiators, with the fans on the opposite side of the radiators from yours. In other words, my fans push air through the radiators rather than pulling it from the other side. The pump speed is around 50% at about 1500rpm, and the fans run at 900–1000rpm. The CPU stress remains similar—around 70°C maximum, which is 5°C less than yours at full load and 12°C lower at 50%. This is with all my panels installed on the case. The ambient temperature is close to 25°C right now.
Edited—though I’m only running a single GTX1070 overclocked to 2100MHz, it barely reaches 50°C during full gaming, using gpuz.