Tips for resolving ground loop noise.
Tips for resolving ground loop noise.
Funnily enough, I'm using PS/2rate.
😀
Although I have it set to 80Hz. Not 100% sure if it gives me more options, though I think it does. But I'll try changing it to 200Hz. Thanks.
The specs of mice and what's ideal for what is new to me, I must admit. I can't claim I understand it fully. I didn't realise 800dpi is ideal for 1440p. 😮 I mean, I'm using a Razer Abyssus V2 on my main PC, which is 5000 dpi. And I'm still using 1080p. 😅 Eventually I do plan on upgrading my 8-9 year old GPU. Should get a new monitor as well. Although with my current space, I don't think I can plump for a 4K monitor as it wouldn't fit.
Will order that ground-loop isolator in the next day or so. I'll report back on whether or not it's solved the problem.
And it's important to note TS, TRS, TRRS connections as well.
These links need to align properly.
The ground loop adapter/isolator in Post #8 is TRS.
By the way:
Cable Chick Blog discusses TRRS and Audio Jacks.
The wiring configurations might differ because of varying standards.
3-pin, 4-pin, USB variations can lead to compatibility issues.
I've studied them before. I try to learn something new each day.
I also have a 4-pole USB adapter connected to one of my base units' USB ports. It's positioned above my sound canvas, which is on top of my subwoofer. I'm not sure if they're connected together... I attempted to unplug and turn them off yesterday, but nothing changed. I plan to take a photo of the subwoofer's 3.5mm jack and the back of the sound card.
Razer Abyssus V2 could feature a 5000dpi sensor capable of reading 100" per second, though the standard dpi values for the presets remain as follows:
Red: 400 DPI
Green: 800 DPI
Blue: 1600 DPI
Cyan: 2400 DPI
Yellow: 3200 DPI
Razer Synapse software allows modification of certain presets, reaching up to 5000dpi via the Performance section.
When using a mono TS plug in a TRS jack, you typically receive either Left or Right output.
Since the stereo ground-loop isolator uses distinct transformers for each channel, it doesn't matter which you select, provided both ends match.
The issue arises if the jack in the soundcard connects to the plug at a different position than the isolator, causing mismatched channels and no sound unless one plug is slightly removed.
Link opened for me – not sure what might have been missed....
Re-posting: https://www.cablechick.com.au/blog/under...dio-jacks/
In summary, @BFG-9000 explored the level of detail needed to fix these issues.
It’s already challenging enough just considering pinouts, and things get worse with poorly designed or manufactured cables, plugs, ports, adapters – which are unfortunately common today.
If contact is absent or unreliable when it matters, try replacing the cables and adapters with identical, working ones to identify faulty ones.
It's quite simple to become confused with these topics.
Many individuals lack awareness, without any responsibility on their part, of important details.
Some have never examined the plugs closely, and naturally, the interior of the ports remains hidden.
"Compatible with"... only that the plug can fit into the port. This is why the Cable chick link exists.
The situation becomes even more complicated when USB is involved.
Additional notes:
https://electrosemic.com/type-c-to-3-5mm...e_vignette
Solving problems often requires focusing on the schematic details of pinouts and connections.
At that stage, I rely on audiophile members and those who work with motherboards or USB at a detailed level.
In the meantime, it's not harmful to expand your knowledge as well. You might discover other factors that are relevant when troubleshooting and fixing the issue.
A moment of insight here.
The information is overwhelming. 😅 I don't really grasp most of it. I assume if something functions, that's enough for me. Also, being in an environment with lots of distractions makes it hard to focus right now.
I'm not confident about my next steps. I've confirmed the subwoofer jack is TRS, so the isolator we discussed in post 8 should work...? I found the same one on Amazon and it seems to match.
There is a lot to understand here.
You're generally on the right path overall, for instance with the subwoofer jack and isolator both being TRS.
TRS differs from TRRS, and mixed setups increase the complexity of pin configurations.
The USB mouse involved also adds to the intricacy.
It seems the matching of pins should be consistent, though there are companies that use their own proprietary connections inside the jack or plug.
Some claim compatibility but may not deliver fully.
It’s a warning to watch out for "Compatible with" claims.
Perhaps the pin-to-pin connection is correct, but the product quality is poor, leading to potential shorts or breaks inside the plug or port where cables connect.
These intermittent issues are harder to fix.
The best approach is usually to buy the isolator and test it, keeping in mind the return costs and RMA rules.
If swapping it resolves the issue, that’s a good sign.
If not, you’ll need someone skilled with a multimeter to trace the connections and voltages accurately.
Ensure you map out all pins, grounds, and connections end-to-end without mismatches.
This goes beyond just replacing known working cables—it requires pinpointing the exact faulty component.