Thermal paste made contact with the cooler twice. Should I try again?
Thermal paste made contact with the cooler twice. Should I try again?
Hi guys!
I changed the CPU cooler today and applied thermal paste. During the process, I struggled to align the cooler smoothly on the first try. After lifting it slightly again after applying the paste, it settled properly and I secured it. Is this okay? Should I go through the whole process again?
If needed, can I reuse the thermal paste from yesterday’s tube that came with the cooler?
i7 7700k
bequiet slim shadow rock
Ty very much.
Hi guys!
I changed the CPU cooler today and applied thermal paste. During the process I struggled to align it smoothly on the first try. After a bit of lifting once the paste was in place, it settled properly and I secured it. Is this acceptable? Should I go through the whole process again?
If needed, can I reuse the paste from yesterday’s tub? It came with the cooler.
i7 7700k
bequiet slim shadow rock
Ty very much.
Lifting might cause bubbles and create hot spots. Perfect alignment is best to avoid this. You should clean it off and reapply.
A tub of thermal compound is fine.
Hi guys!
I changed the CPU cooler today, applied thermal paste, but couldn't align it smoothly on the first try. After moving it slightly again after putting the paste down, it settled and I tightened the screws. Is this okay? Should I do it all over again?
If needed, can I reuse the paste from yesterday? It was a tube included with the cooler.
i7 7700k
bequiet slim shadow rock
Ty very much.
Lifting might cause bubbles and create hot spots. Perfect alignment is best to avoid this. You should clean and reapply it. A tube of thermal compound works fine, or you can use the one that came with the coolers (or a separate Arctic silver 5 if you prefer). Usually, a few applications are enough, sometimes more.
😀
When installing a new cooler mount, I often try mounting it without thermal paste and turn all the screws a turn to check fit. Once it's off, apply paste and install. This helps with judging placement visually later. If unsure, reapplying paste is a simple fix.
Check your temperatures first. It should be okay if you don’t leave the thermal paste exposed to air for too long. Its shelf life usually lasts a few years, depending on the quantity. You can purchase different amounts of thermal paste. Some tiny syringes hold just enough for a couple or three uses. Avoid using non-sealed packaging for this type of product.
Arctic Silver 5 was a solid choice about ten years ago. Nowadays, there are many cheaper alternatives that perform just as well. These newer options also don’t use the original silver-based compound.
Arctic MX-4 is a popular alternative. Brands like Gelid, Thermal Grizzly, Noctua, Phanteks, Swiftech, and others offer similar results. You often get more value for your money or the same performance at a lower cost.
Eximo:
As long as you keep the thermal compound away from air for an extended time, it should stay effective for several years. Exposure isn't an issue because the silicone oil remains chemically stable, just like most thermal transfer materials (carbon, diamond dust, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, etc.) found in standard pastes. The main concerns with air in the paste are the rise in thermal resistance caused by air pockets and the gradual displacement of the paste as it expands during heating, which can push it out and create bubbles. When applied properly, even inexpensive pastes can last forever or at least until you apply enough force to break the vacuum bond that forms between the heatsink and its attachment over time.
I was thinking about how it sat there, not mainly about the air bubbles issue, which definitely exists. However, it seems quite challenging to create a large enough air pocket to cause a problem. It's better to be cautious, as others have advised.
I concur that it remains stable, but when exposed directly to air, the compounds tend to lose moisture. I’m not fully certain about the exact chemical or physical behavior, but it probably involves absorbing and releasing water vapor with temperature shifts. This could help move particles so oil droplets settle and raw material forms a crusty surface. There might also be solvents that can evaporate.
It might just require re-stirring, but then you’re back to dealing with air bubbles again. Maybe placing it under vacuum after stirring would be more effective.
Eximo:
I understand that the stability is acceptable, though compounds exposed directly to air tend to lose moisture. A standard thermal paste usually contains silicone oil and metal oxide particles, with no substance prone to drying out. The issue of drying arises because particles become more tightly packed during repeated heating cycles, forcing more excess oil out for easier removal. The oil remains present but is only partially released from its solid parts. Adding solvents to the paste without removing them before installing the heatsink could cause vapor bubbles to form between the IHS/die and the heatsink, negatively affecting cooling performance. This seems to introduce more complications than benefits.