Thermal Interface CPU Die/IHS
Thermal Interface CPU Die/IHS
Hey, you're looking to swap the thermal material between the die and the IHS on your 8600G. Since you're new to this, here are three options: PTM, a Kryosheet, or an LM. I know the safety steps for LM or Kryosheets, but I'm curious about the best balance of performance and longevity.
It's a compact PC setup. I've wrapped up the case adjustments regarding heat management and tried to push this processor further. From what I've noticed, swapping out the thermal paste appears to help raise temperatures, which is useful given how hot it gets. Also: For educational reasons, I find it rewarding to experiment and improve performance for this chip.
If you're looking for the most affordable option, using a basic paste works fine. The 8600G isn't requiring peak performance since its max is only -3°C, which is already sufficient.
It means pushing the processor beyond its standard speed. Yes, AM5 tends to heat up, but the actual performance remains the same regardless of temperature.
This task isn't supposed to require any specific action. I'm just eager to proceed. Yes, but I don't want my fan to run nonstop. It's mostly about understanding its limits. But sure, it helps to see what others have tried before. Not necessarily on the same hardware, but generally speaking.
It’s a low-powered CPU setup. I’ve boosted my 9800X3D to 5.6Ghz from 5.2Ghz and use an air cooler at just 30% speed. I’m okay with temperatures reaching around 88°C during intense gaming, as it’s still within a safe range and the system runs quietly. For tinkering or curiosity, it’s fine. Most AM5 CPUs are soldered, so few people have removed them. The rare Ryzen 8000 APUs that do run are probably not aware of delidding. I know those are tricky, so finding others who’ve done it will be a challenge.
If you're adjusting the timing between the chip and IHS, liquid metal is the optimal choice. Remember that the IHS adhesive layer thickness must be considered because liquid metal is very thin. This also varies with the CPU model. Practicing with liquid metal is wise—it will greatly aid your work on laptops or phones. Mastering it can extend a single tube across many devices. However, if you plan to remove it later, don't worry about keeping the IHS intact; just run it down. Be aware that achieving a perfect fit on a bare die becomes more challenging. I typically start with standard thermal compound, then inspect for unevenness, and reapply liquid metal if needed. Performance-wise, liquid metal outperforms PTM. Kryosheet is great for frequent removal and replacement but isn't ideal for everyday use—it's too cumbersome. I own an old Windows 7 machine where I rely on bare die liquid metal regularly.
delidding will be simple since it isn't soldered. The liquid metal 100% works for the kryosheet and ptm, which are better suited for GPUs that don’t gain much from LM. You’re aiming for performance, not avoiding nuclear threats—CPUs also benefit a lot when delidded. Ideally you’d want direct die, but with the AM5’s heat transfer issues, anything above a phantom spirit is essentially pointless due to the IHS bottleneck.
He likely didn't achieve the temperature drop by merely altering the paste. He tends to use direct die methods as well. I've tried various pastes like Kryosheet and PTM7950, but temperature changes were usually only a few degrees. The LM series works best for direct die cooling. On an 8600G it seems excessive and probably not practical. The expense of the block and loop might be better invested in a faster CPU!