The PSU failure indicates no boot and the CPU light is on, suggesting a possible CPU issue.
The PSU failure indicates no boot and the CPU light is on, suggesting a possible CPU issue.
I recently got a MAG A550BN to replace a 400W EVGA, because I have been having a lot of hard crashing happening in more intensive games, most notably Helldivers. When I plugged the new PSU in and stress tested it, it crashed again, but now it won't boot up at all, even after switching to the old PSU. It will start spinning up the PSU, but then throw up a CPU light on the EZ Debug panel, and I have to discharge the computer before it will even do that again.
I'm pretty sure the CPU is just boned, but before I try to replace it, is there anything I can try to see if that might fix the issue? It's an i7-12700kf in a H610M-G motherboard, if that helps at all.
Full specifications requested? Just mentioning CPU, MoBo and PSU.
Getting another PSU doesn’t guarantee it’s superior to your previous EVGA unit.
MSI MAG A-BN is a low-quality PSU, rated Tier C.
For a gaming rig, a proper PSU should be of Tier A. Examples include Seasonic Focus/Vertex/PRIME, Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi, and Super Flower Leadex Gold/Platinum/Titanium.
PSU tier list: [link]
Tier A is suitable, while Tier A+ is better.
My three PCs are all powered by Tier A PSUs: Seasonic PRIME 650 Titanium (A+), Seasonic PRIME Ultra 650 Titanium (A+), and Seasonic Focus PX-550 (A). Full specs with images are in my profile.
By the way, what model was your EVGA unit? Maybe an N1?
This time I’m opting for a proper, high-quality PSU.
If you still have doubts, consider CPU, MoBo, RAM, or GPU as alternatives.
Since the PSU supplies all components, it’s the most critical part inside the PC.
Therefore, never compromise on quality! Also, avoid purchasing used PSUs.
You should focus on practical steps rather than just discussing the PSU tierlist. You need to switch to a different PSU, but that won’t reveal if there’s a problem with your CPU or if it can be fixed. Since you’ve already replaced the original PSU and it’s still functioning, using another one won’t help with diagnostics.
As I mentioned:
To confirm a CPU problem, you need a second, known to function correctly compatible CPU. This allows you to insert the working CPU into your system and check if it operates properly.
OR, you can take your CPU and install it in a second, compatible configuration to determine whether the alternative build functions.
This applies to all the components I listed above.
Without actually testing on a second compatible machine, no one can tell what caused the failure or what survived.
The bare minimum required for the system to POST and boot into BIOS/UEFI is: CPU (with cooler), motherboard, one DIMM of RAM, power supply unit.
Since your CPU has an F-suffix, it lacks an integrated GPU. Therefore, a dedicated GPU is also necessary to view the image.
Storage drives, case, fans, etc., are not essential. As long as your PC starts and you can boot into BIOS/UEFI, the combination of CPU-MoBo-RAM (and GPU) generally works well.
This does not indicate a CPU issue. What it reveals is that the motherboard cannot communicate with the CPU. So, either the motherboard or the CPU itself, or both, are non-functional. At the very least.
The only solution is to replace the faulty components.
If you don’t have a second, compatible system available, take your PC to a repair shop and get diagnostics done. They have a second system for testing components.