The PC is still not posting, and it's unclear which component is causing the issue or what steps to take next.
The PC is still not posting, and it's unclear which component is causing the issue or what steps to take next.
I improved my computer (CPU, Motherboard, RAM, GPU) about six months ago, and since then, I've only experienced minor problems, mainly occasional crashes.
Recently, I encountered a situation where the screen froze completely, and I was unable to shut down the PC using the case power button, so I had to switch the PSU connection.
Since then, my computer doesn't boot properly, the CPU indicator remains red, and the fans run at a steady speed.
Build details:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE WHITE ARGB 66.17 CFM
Motherboard: ASRock B650 Steel Legend WiFi ATX AM5
RAM: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30
GPU: XFX Swift OC Radeon RX 9060 XT 16 GB Video Card
PSU: Corsair RM750x (2024) 750 W Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Case: Corsair 3500X ARGB ATX Mid Tower Case
Attempts made:
- Disconnecting via case power button without power
- Shorting the two CMOS pins (battery removal proved difficult)
- Booting with no GPU and just one RAM stick
- Performing a Flashback BIOS update, which worked but didn’t alter settings
I’m confident I wasn’t installing anything incorrectly, as the system functioned normally for several months.
I switched to another motherboard:
New Motherboard: MSI MAG B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5
Initially assumed the problem was with the motherboard, so I installed a new one.
Tried booting with just CPU and RAM, but the PC still fails to POST, the CPU light stays red, fans spin steadily, and the DRAM indicator turns orange.
Eventually, I visited a local shop for further testing using the new board.
Shop visit outcome:
- They didn’t have a fully functional system matching mine
- Parts were being swapped around between builds
- Attempts included Flashback BIOS on the new board (no results)
- Moving CPU to another build indicated it was dead
- Placing a working CPU in my setup also produced the same issue
- They suggested my PSU might be insufficient and recommended replacing it
- Advised adding an extra cable from the PSU to the other CPU 8-pin connector
- Believed air cooling wouldn’t improve performance for AMD 5 chips
Thoughts / Questions:
I believe the testing procedures were sound, but I’m uncertain about the motherboard evaluation (with a working CPU in my build).
My PSU appears capable of powering on, so why would it fail to support another CPU or board?
While the fans are running normally, I’m unsure if my current PSU is adequate. Should I seek further testing elsewhere before making changes?
Is my existing PSU sufficient, or should I replace it regardless of cost?
I’d like to restore functionality quickly but avoid unnecessary replacements—any guidance would be invaluable!
If you've already swapped the motherboard, then I'm excluding the CPU socket pins and the board itself. I'm not sure exactly what they were doing or not doing, but this isn't my first time, and some of your suggestions make me think they might be making mistakes.
He is working with a completely distinct MSI motherboard, meaning there won't be an ASRock BIOS solution that can resolve an issue on this particular board. The key must lie in something shared by both setups.
@manimcooked
When you attempted the process using only the CPU and one stick of memory, did you actually take out the graphics card and reroute the display cable to the video output on the motherboard? Were all M.2 drives fully removed and both power and data cables disconnected from any SATA devices? Every step you took—whether inside or outside the case, on a box or cardboard—was you did? If you were inside the case, did you also disconnect any RGB/ARGB devices connected to the motherboard?
When using just one stick of memory, which exact DIMM slot was it installed in? Starting from the CPU and moving towards the edge of the board, checking slots 1 through 4, with 4 being closest to the edge. Did you then attempt the other stick after the first one failed?
Regarding the difficulty in removing the battery, CMOS cells are quite simple to extract. If removal proves challenging, it may indicate an underlying issue. You could try again as shown in the link:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9hyEPTFR10
Following these steps:
BIOS Hard Reset procedure
Power down the unit, switch off the PSU, and unplug the power cord from either the wall outlet or the power supply.
Remove the motherboard's CMOS battery for a few minutes—sometimes it’s necessary to take out the graphics card to access it.
While the battery is removed, press the case power button continuously for 15–30 seconds to discharge any remaining charge in the CMOS circuit. Once the five minutes are up, reinstall the battery carefully, ensuring the correct orientation.
If you had to remove the graphics card, you can reinstall it now, but be sure to reconnect any power cables and your display cable.
Reattach the PSU power cable, turn it back on, and power on the system. It should show the POST screen with options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the BIOS setup, adjust boot settings for Windows or legacy systems, and if needed, configure OS drive settings. Save your changes and exit.
If the system successfully POSTs, you can proceed further—reverting to BIOS settings and configuring custom parameters such as Memory XMP, EXPO, A-XMP, D.O.C.P profiles, fan profiles, or other specific configurations that may have been lost during the reset.
In certain scenarios, after a reset, it might be necessary to load default or optimal values in the BIOS to restore hardware tables and enable proper booting.
It’s also advisable, if you need to perform a hard reset, to try a different display type—especially if video signal issues are suspected. Many systems fail with displayport setups. Consider using HDMI if you have no display or visual access, or test other monitors if possible.
This approach can help resolve persistent problems across varying hardware configurations.
I recently attempted to flashback the new beta BIOS for the ASRock motherboard, but the same issues persist—no video feedback and a constantly red CPU light.
My setup includes only the CPU, its heatsink/fans, an 8-pin CPU, a 24-pin motherboard, and one stick of RAM. The video cables are connected directly to the motherboard since the GPU isn’t installed.
I also tried swapping the RAM stick, as this board prefers the fourth slot.
However, I still can’t power off the motherboard with the case’s power button, so I have to turn off the PSU manually.
After further investigation, I discovered that the plastic barrier stopping me from moving the CMOS battery latch is a built-in protection feature, but I don’t have the tools to remove it.
Both motherboards seem to have this plastic component.
There is probably a jumper you can short to clear the CMOS if you can't remove the battery. Check your manual.
If you aim to eliminate plastic, consider moving the latch in the opposite direction (the inner part toward the battery center). I also saw one case where this method caused damage. Using a metal tool like a screwdriver can short the battery—make sure to disconnect the power supply first.
One thing at a time. The question is why several monitors are connected but the system refuses to start.