The PC is no longer responding after switching the case.
The PC is no longer responding after switching the case.
So yesterday I purchased and installed a new PC case onto my existing machine (the case is the Silverstone Fara M1 Micro ATX). At first, everything appeared normal; it just displayed an error message. After watching some YouTube videos, I figured it was resolved. Now, today the same issue persists until I connected another fan (Molex type). When I tried to power it on, it wouldn’t turn on at all. I switched back to the other fan, which did power on, but the motherboard’s DRAM and CPU indicators turned red and then shut down after a short time. After unplugging and reconnecting the PSU power cable, it started working independently (I didn’t touch the case power button), yet the same problem continued. I’m now concerned that I might have damaged my CPU or motherboard. I had these components since August 2022 (except for the graphics card, which I recently bought and used). They functioned properly before; I encountered issues with DRAM and CPU lights not turning off but staying on, which I resolved by resetting the BIOS, removing the CMOS battery, and trying again—but that didn’t work now. I’m worried because I’m afraid it could mean my CPU or motherboard is faulty. I checked the CPU pins and they were fine. I also thought the standoffs might be the issue—they seemed unusual since when I installed them and tightened them, sometimes they would start moving, but after removing the motherboard and adjusting its position inside the case, the same problem occurred: DRAM and CPU lights would turn on before power cutting off.
Sorry for the lengthy explanation, but I wanted to be very specific. Any advice on how to fix this?
It seems the setup wasn’t done correctly or there was a mistake that caused damage. I’d begin fresh, using only the essential components—just the power supply, motherboard with CPU, and keeping it cool. I’d monitor for any alerts, paying attention to changes in warning sounds as each part is added.
Inspect beneath the mobo in the updated case for short circuits resulting from metal stand-off pillars positioned incorrectly. If circumstances are fortunate, the damage may remain minimal. More commonly, it could signal the need to replace the mobo. The CPU, GPU, and RAM are likely unaffected.
It's straightforward to remove the tapped thread from a thin metal baseplate in an inexpensive case. This leads to a pillar that fails to secure properly and continues spinning under the screwdriver. This explains why the stand-off rotates when attempting to tighten the board with fixing screws.
In another scenario, inserting an M3 or 4-40 screw into a pillar tapped 6-32 might simply cause it to spin.
Alternatively, you might have installed a 4-40 UNC or metric threaded pillar into a hole in the metal chassis base plate that was tapped with a 6-32 UNC thread. This results in a pillar that spins repeatedly.
From a casual perspective, 4-40 UNC and M3 screws appear alike to the untrained observer. 6-32 UNC features a rougher thread. It's even conceivable that pillars are tapped with UNC on one side and metric on the other, adding to the excitement—and confusion—of assembling a PC.
When switching cases, you need to pay attention to the spacers beneath the MB, ensuring they are positioned just under the holes and not in areas without holes. This is the most frequent error. Another typical issue occurs on the rear side where it connects to the rear panel and grounding tabs for ports.
Modern cases appear to have numerous gaps for spacers or pillars, but there are still some variations. It's essential to install standoffs only in the screw holes on your motherboard. A single metal standoff placed incorrectly can cause damage, often resulting in a loud noise and the disappearance of the motherboard, sometimes accompanied by a strange odor. Using insulating standoffs would prevent short circuits, but at least one metal standoff is necessary to provide a ground connection between the board and the case. Without physically checking your computer, certainty is impossible. What we understand from outside is that the issue might stem from improper installation or overlooked mistakes made by those unfamiliar with building computers. The actual cause could be anything else entirely.
What bothers me is that everything functioned perfectly in the original setup, but things changed once I switched the front fan. Initially, I installed two front fans and one back fan, all Molex connectors. Since I only had two Molex fans, I connected one front and one back. The system started working normally for the whole day. The next morning, after a nap, I replaced the front fan with another one, leaving the case fans unchanged. Everything booted fine until I changed the PSU fan to match the original setup. After that, it would boot but display the DRAM and CPU red lights. When I tried to power it on, it wouldn’t shut down, so I had to use the PSU button to stop it. Now every time I want to turn it on, I have to press the PSU button. The PC lights up with the two red indicators (CPU and DRAM) and then shuts down after a couple of seconds. It’s strange because I didn’t connect anything wrong from the motherboard—could it be the fans that are not working properly? Or is there something wrong with the PSU?