The PC crashes exclusively during gameplay in BG3.
The PC crashes exclusively during gameplay in BG3.
About this, some questions:
Who made the component swaps?
There are alternative platforms for file transfer, but I don’t need SFC or scan log because the command resolves OS corruption most of the time.
Extreme heat isn’t ideal for the GPU.
Also, do you own a FE or AIB version of the RTX 3070?
Regarding your PC setup, what is your case made of and how many fans are installed inside?
Is your system built from scratch or preassembled?
In certain cases, the problem might stem from software conflicts (driver issues, OS corruption). Resolving it usually involves formatting the drive and performing a fresh Windows installation. This clears out unnecessary files, fixes bugs, and removes malware (except rootkits). For hardware repairs, I recommend trying a clean Windows install first—it’s free.
I can provide further guidance on software steps or suggest proceeding with a clean install. After that, if the issues remain, we should investigate hardware problems.
The last two screens you mentioned relate to Ryzen Master; its removal might help with random reboots. Please test your PC and see if those reboots occur. However, game crashes and BSoD errors could still exist unless they’re tied to Ryzen Master.
My brother-in-law has done component replacements for me; he's quite skilled at that. Regarding the FE/AIB, I'm not very familiar with it. It was a used GPU I got from my dad, and I plan to upgrade to a 3090 soon. I have a Phanteks nv7 case with seven fans inside plus three from the cooling system. The PC is built from scratch. Yesterday I performed a full Windows reinstall, which took six hours—seems unusually long. Still, it crashed afterward, so it probably isn't the software issue.
Have you asked him what he thinks the issue of your PC is? Since he can come on site and do troubleshooting steps with PC, which is far better then we communicating over the forums.
FE = Nvidia Founder Edition
AIB = Gigabyte, MSI, Asus etc made aftermarket GPU
AIB GPUs usually don't spike into 80+C under load. FE GPUs in the other hand, are more prone to that.
Trying with 2nd GPU would tell if the issue is with your used RTX 3070 or not.
Oh, if you go with RTX 3090, get a new PSU as well. At least 1kW (1000W) unit, since RTX 30-series are plagued by transient power spikes and RTX 3090 can spike up to 660W, making your 750W PSU way too weak.
Oh, that fishbowl case. Fan orientation? And i take that your AIO is top exhaust?
If yours would be prebuilt, it would explain why the Ryzen Master was there (aka bloatware). But for DIY, your brother-in-law must have installed it (partly) to your system since it doesn't come as built-in to Win installation.
Your OS drive is what? You don't have it listed under specs.
Hardware wise;
* try with 2nd, known to work GPU.
* pop out one of the RAM sticks and use only one stick (btw, DDR4 RAM is double data rate and frequency should be over 2133 Mhz. 1200 Mhz is DDR2 speeds.)
* i also suspect the HX750. Despite it being new and good quality, platform itself is old and there can be lemons, even among the best. More so, since random restarts can be PSU issue as well. Speaking of it, have you have had random restarts after clean Win install? If not, PSU should be fine.
Also, let's make a recap;
After clean Win installation, what kind of crashes you're seeing? Random restarts as earlier? Game crashing to desktop? BSoD? Something else? Also, let's leave Baldur's Gate 3 out of it, since the game itself is flawed.
I tried offering advice and even gave me a 1600w PSU to test on my PC. However, when I borrowed it, the game didn’t crash at all after reinstalling Baldur's Gate. I thought that resolved the problem and returned the PSU. Now I’m considering getting it again.
I have a Gigabyte GPU, so it seems like an AIB.
For my setup, I followed the fan instructions: the top exhaust is working, there are two back exhausts, three on the sides, and three at the bottom for intake.
I'm running Windows 11 on a 1TB Samsung 870 EVO drive. Since the reinstall only caused one crash during BG3—where my screen would go dark and I had to force shut it down—I haven’t experienced any random crashes or restarts yet, even with other games.
Side note: If I were to purchase a new PSU, how crucial is the certification? Should I opt for platinum 80 plus or is gold acceptable too?
At this point, would it be safe to say that your PC operates fine? And clean Win install removed the issues (other games crashing, random restarts)? If so, i'd wait for BG3 update/hotfix before playing it. The following of my reply is for info and optional things you could do, if you like; While 1.6kW PSU is beefy, it all comes down to the make and model of the PSU. There are bad quality PSUs out there, even at that high capacity. With PC fixed, other than BG3 crashing on you, testing with 2nd PSU wouldn't give any better results since it's the game that has an issue. Now, if the random restarts would've remained after removal of Ryzen Master and clean Win install, then yes, testing with 2nd PSU would've been another step regarding hardware troubleshooting. Yes. It is aftermarket GPU and those usually have better power delivery and cooling compared to Nvidia's FE version. So, your fans have correct orientation. This removes one possible culprit as of why your GPU reached 80+C. RTX 3070 FE reaches peak 69C, review: https://www. So, issue why you have such high GPU temps come down to 2 possible options; 1. GPU itself 2. Case fans are spinning too slowly Since you got used GPU, there's no telling in what kind of shape the cooler is on it. Could be that it needs thermal paste/pads change. Though, while something you could do, it would be a bit of waste of effort, especially when you plan to upgrade your GPU in (near) future. While you have plenty of case fans, i guess you have them spinning such that you can hardly hear them? If so, and depending on the case fan make and model (which i don't know), it could be too little for proper airflow inside your PC case. Testing it is easy, just increase the case fan speeds. E.g set the fans to the max and look if GPU temps still reach 80+C. If it doesn't, keep the case fans spinning at higher speeds. I have no experience with Win11, so i can not tell if the 6h installation time is average or high. I'm running Win10 myself. Though, for 870 Evo SSD (great SSD btw, have several of them in my PCs as well, but 2TB variants), i don't think the SSD itself would be the issue. Also, you could install Samsung Magician, which tells the health status of your drive, link: https://semiconductor.samsung.com/consum...ort/tools/ Efficiency certificate doesn't tell how good of a build quality PSU is. It just shows how much power PSU is wasting as excess heat. To explain PSU's efficiency, they are rated by 80 Plus standard; whereby different levels are; * 80+ (aka White) <- Never buy 80+ PSU since at current date, those are low/crap quality. * 80+ Bronze <- Used to be the norm ~15 years ago. Nowadays, best to be avoided. * 80+ Silver <- Only very few PSUs had it. * 80+ Gold <- Current norm. * 80+ Platinum <- Only few PSUs have it. * 80+ Titanium <- Best there is. I'll give you efficiency example, with 400W load on PSU and 3 different PSUs: 650W 80+ Titanium, 1000W 80+ Titanium, 1000W 80+ Gold. Also, keep in mind that PSU is most efficient when load on it is 50%-80% of it's max rated capacity. For 650W unit, i'll take my own PSU, Seasonic PRIME TX-650 80+ Titanium [SSR-650TD] as an example (btw, the best PSU money could buy at the time of purchase, back in 2016, and still, one of the best, if not the best, PSU out there). 80+ Titanium PSU has efficiency rating of: On 20% load - 94% On 50% load - 96% On 100% load - 94% So, for e.g. 400W load on my 650W unit, would be 61.5%, meaning that the PSU is 96% efficient, where only 4% of power is wasted as excess heat. Meaning that the PSU draws 416W from the wall, gives 400W to components and wastes only 16W as excess heat. Same 400W load on 1kW PSU (e.g Seasonic PRIME TX-1000 80+ Titanium) would mean that the PSU is 94% efficient, since load on PSU would be 40%. Meaning that PSU draws 424W from the wall, gives 400W to components and wastes 24W as excess heat. But if you'd get 1kW 80+ Gold PSU, which is the norm today (e.g Seasonic PRIME GX-1000 80+ Gold), with efficiency ratings of: On 20% load - 90% On 50% load - 92% On 100% load - 89% Would mean that on 400W load, PSU is 90% efficient. In this case, PSU pulls 440W from wall, gives 400W to components and wastes 40W as excess heat. For most people, paying far more for 80+ Titanium PSU isn't justified due to small gains in PSU's efficiency. Hence why many go for 80+ Gold unit, which is current norm today. Still, 80+ Titanium PSU, in the long run can make up for the higher initial cost. For your build and if you get RTX 3090, max load on your PSU should be around 800W. ~660W peak of RTX 3090 and ~150W for the rest of the system. On web browsing, without GPU transient power spikes, load on PSU would remain in the 300W ballpark. What are GPU transient power spikes? A video to watch; View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnRyyCsuHFQ Though, for PSUs, build quality is far more important than the 80+ efficiency certificate. Good PSUs to go for are Seasonic Focus/PRIME or Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi. For other options, anything from Tier A will also do, PSU Tier list: https://forums. E.g any of these 4x 1kW units are great, pcpp: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/products/com...FT,43JgXL/ Consult the PSU Tier list to see which 1+kW are good, since there are beefy PSUs out there that are mediocre quality or even low/crap quality. To avoid: Silverstone, Thermaltake, Be Quiet!, EVGA (select units). To look for: Seasonic, Super Flower, Corsair, NZXT. Though, you can also look the reliability of PSU by the warranty given to it. In a nutshell, regarding PSU's warranty: up to 2 years - terrible reliability 3 years - poor reliability (e.g Corsair VS/CS) 5 years - mediocre reliability (e.g Be Quiet! Straight Power 11, Seasonic G12, Corsair CX/CXF) 7 years - good reliability (e.g Seasonic Core/Focus GM, Corsair TX/AX) 10 years - great reliability (e.g Seasonic Focus GX/PX, Corsair RMx/HX/HXi/AXi) 12 years - superb reliability (e.g Seasonic PRIME) Look for a PSU that has at least 10 years of warranty. Edit: Oh, final word about PSU's efficiency; As i said, 80+ Titanium (or 80+ Platinum unit in that matter), is hard to justify the extra cost over 80+ Gold PSU. E.g Seasonic PRIME GX-1000 vs PRIME TX-1000. Price diff could be double. Now, i'm running 80+ Titanium PSUs myself since i also have UPSes in use and i can not afford PSU pulling more power from UPS, thus reducing my UPS runtime. If you don't have an UPS, you should get one. It safeguards your PC from electricity grid issues. But when you're running without UPS and electricity bill doesn't break your bank, then paying less for 80+ Gold unit is fine.