The disastrous PC setup and its series of BSODs during startup, along with a request for assistance
The disastrous PC setup and its series of BSODs during startup, along with a request for assistance
After several weeks of collecting components to craft the system I envisioned, my companions and I assembled it yesterday. The building and setup phase demanded patience, yet the final result was impressive despite minor worries about warped LED connectors on the motherboard. We remembered using stickers, and the cable organization was neat. One friend brought a USB with a Windows 10 setup to simplify things; we plugged it in and booted up. We adjusted the BIOS settings, and the display showed DDR5-5600 RAM when it should have been 5600. Someone mentioned that odd behavior is common and advised proper configuration, so we didn’t dwell too much. Then the machine continued cycling through startup phases without making progress toward Windows installation. We switched the USB port just to be safe, and luckily we reached the Windows menu. Before we could finish, it entered a loop of restarting and failing to load, displaying various strange messages. I noted some of these later, but they were quite amusing. My friends and I tried different approaches at home to diagnose the problem. We figured most issues stemmed from a storage device—either the USB or SSD—or possibly memory problems. With plans for returns, we headed to Best Buy to replace the RAM with a 6000 MHz model, suspecting it was the cause. We also reinstalled Windows on the USB from another machine. Neither fix succeeded. We double-checked all connections and tightened plugs. RAM was ruled out. We tried different RAM sticks and configurations. A change in USB ports led us to download a fresh Windows 11 install from my laptop. Surprisingly, it worked this time. But after installation, the system would either restart at the beginning or flash a blue screen with numerous error codes. Various alerts appeared, some of which I’ll detail later. Eventually, we brainstormed online and deduced the problem likely lay with the drive—USB, SSD, or memory. Considering returns, we visited Best Buy to purchase new RAM (6000 MHz) and reinstalled Windows on the USB from another device. Still no success. We confirmed all connections were secure. RAM was eliminated as the issue. We experimented with different RAM modules and arrangements. Switching USB ports prompted me to download a complete Windows 11 install. It finally booted, but after starting, it hit the black screen once more, then a blue one too. Messages kept popping up, some similar to what we’d seen before—bad files, executables, memory errors. Progress came slowly; command prompts appeared intermittently. We persisted, searching for solutions online. Eventually, we managed to boot into a functional system and discovered the issue was tied to corrupted files or bad sectors. We tried reformatting the SSD, but it only helped a fraction of the time. Occasionally, the screen would semi-boot, revealing a blank desktop with Microsoft Edge and a non-responsive panel that froze for minutes before crashing. We also attempted to update BIOS via flash, which yielded some results. Despite our efforts, we faced repeated failures—error codes, system resets, and frustrating delays. Eventually, after much trial and error, I encountered a rare boot into startup. The screen displayed region settings and keyboard layout but would repeatedly flash a black screen before restarting. I was directed to a mostly empty desktop with only Edge and a loading panel that wouldn’t load for two minutes before another BSOD occurred. We explored CMOS updates and other fixes, but without expert guidance, we remained stuck. Some theories emerged: the SSD might be faulty, or perhaps the CPU/Motherboard, or even the power supply unit due to questionable packaging. I also considered the possibility of a defective PSU, given its unusual condition upon arrival. The situation was stressful; I feared losing my investment. If anyone has insights or fixes, thank you. Also, a big shoutout to my friends for their support throughout the day.
Aspects we reviewed: Ryzen 9 7900X, Asrock B650E, Taichi motherboard, 2x16 Corsair Vengeance DDR5-5600 (6000 MHz), Deepcool AK620, Samsung 980 Pro SSD, 4090, GPU Corsair Rm1000x, PSU Extra Noctua exhaust fan, Fractal design, North Case.
The different tools you're using that aren't included with your PSU aren't usually suggested. However, can I confirm you're entering into the BIOS? Even though I believe this won't clear the CMOS, and if it doesn't work, I think your friend might be right since you should be able to access the BIOS.
Capable of accessing and adjusting BIOS properly. Could try installing a new SSD tomorrow to test.
Usually it's the drive or RAM issue. Because you've already changed the memory, it's likely a CPU memory controller problem. Test with only one stick in slot A2 (second from the CPU) to check for ongoing errors. If issues continue, switch to slot B2 to verify independently. If errors persist after these tests, the problem isn't the memory controller.
I recently installed a new SSD and kept encountering a watchdog error. I’ve moved RAM between A1 and B1 without changing individual slots, but if one channel isn’t working, it might be related to the CPU rather than the motherboard.
Reset the UEFI by removing the CMOS, disconnecting the GPU from power, and testing with the iGPU from your 7900x. If that helps, it might point to the PSU or GPU (though I’m not sure). I think it could be the SSD, CPU, or MOBO—any of those three are easy to eliminate. Reinstall Windows 11 via a USB port on the back panel (MOBO I/O) using another SSD if possible, and check if the problems disappear. Keep the same NVME slot with the new SSD; if errors persist, try moving it to another slot and reinstalling Windows. It’s possible the board has a faulty NVME port. If you don’t have another drive, consider switching to a mechanical SATA drive to confirm the issue isn’t hardware-dependent. If problems remain, adjust CPU voltage settings slightly in UEFI and see if stability improves. You might need to test other CPU voltages or even perform an RMA on the CPU. The MOBO likely needs replacement—your warranty covers it. Avoid losing money; one component is probably faulty and will require a return or replacement.
Thanks for the guidance, I'll consider your suggestions carefully. The SSD I tried recently still had problems, so I've eliminated that possibility. Moving the USB port was my first step when issues started yesterday, and I also reset the CMOS by pressing the button—no boot yet. I'm planning to test the PSU and GPU next since I'm still unsure about the power supply. I'll also check the CPU voltage and see if an RMA is necessary if it helps. It seems the problem might be with the CPU or motherboard. The BIOS works fine, but there were bent pins in the LED slot and a crooked sound pin. Some negative reviews about newegg shipping came up, so I'm cautious. Thanks again for your advice—it's really helpful.
I received a significant update regarding this situation, along with the broader problem. I tried boosting the voltage from 1.25 to 1.3, and surprisingly, my computer started working and installed Windows successfully. I managed to get it up and running for most tasks, though I and my friends realized it wouldn’t be a lasting solution. To test its limits, we ran Cinebench, which crashed right away. It looks like the CPU might be the issue, so an RMA seems necessary. I’ll keep updating this thread and thank everyone who helped out!
Great update that you've refined your focus. Smart move not to boost voltage further, even though it might prevent a crash. By this stage, you'll probably have to diagnose the issue since each firmware handles RMAs differently. Wishing you good luck and hoping you figure out whether it's CPU, MOBO, or PSU—tend to think it's the CPU.