The CPU remains warm following the cooler installation.
The CPU remains warm following the cooler installation.
Hello everyone, I recently swapped my Corsair H60 for an H80i that I bought a while ago but never installed. The CPU (A i5 4670k) was always too hot, even after overclocking to 4.3 GHz and using 1.236V. It would hit temperatures in the 90s during Intel Burn Test and reach mid to high 80s on Cinebench R15. I expected the H80i would help, but it still runs very hot and the performance gap between the first and fourth core is quite noticeable at 13 degrees during these tests. Do you have any suggestions for fixes or better air-cooled options? I’m also getting tired of water cooling since both haven’t worked well and the H80i is quite loud. Thanks for any advice you can offer.
There are no CLCs that surpass similar priced air coolers, and the ebst air coolers do not match the performance of those costing 50% more, while the CLCs can be significantly louder.
Nevertheless, these temperatures remain relatively high.
These recommendations suit Haswell models.
Up to 1.200v = Very Good Air Cooler (Hyper 212)
Up to 1.250v = Top Air Coolers (Phanteks PH-TC14-PE, Silver Arrow or Noctua DH14) – Dual 140mm CLC / AIO with 1500 rpm fans (Corsair H110)
Up to 1.275v = Extreme Speed Dual Fan CLC / AIO with 2700 rpm fans (noticeably noisy for most users)
Up to 1.287v = Best air coolers (Cryorig R1 / Noctua DH-15)
Up to 1.300v = Swiftech AIOs (Swifteh H220-X / H240-X)
Up to 1.325v = Custom Loop with 15C Delta T (three 120mm / 140mm units)
Up to 1.400 = Custom Loop with...
H60i to H80i represents a modest improvement. You probably won’t notice much change between them (just a few degrees at most). The H60 isn’t designed for overclocking, so you were already near its limits. The H80 might struggle to keep up with the overclocking.
If you’re pushing the limits, consider a 100+ series. I use a H115i on a 6700k that’s been overclocked, and I rarely drop below 70c under heavy load. That could be a bit too much for your setup. It might work fine without issues if you stick to the lower end.
Also, how was the upgrade installed? Did you use pre-applied thermal paste, or did you clean the old one before applying the new?
Any model requiring a fresh air supply to function properly.
What are your specific concerns regarding the case setup?
Is the radiator positioned in a particular direction?
When the case covers are removed, does it improve performance?
Checking for adjustments in case airflow might be beneficial.
Do you think you applied the thermal paste correctly? It's pre-applied with the H80i.
jamesa82 :
Checked if the thermal paste was applied correctly. It's pre-applied with the H80i. Since you haven't used a cooler for a while, did it dry out? Probably not, but it's still a possibility.
There are no CLCs that surpass similar priced air coolers, and the ebst air coolers do better than those costing 50% more, while the CLCs can be up to 12 times louder.
Nevertheless, the temperatures remain quite high.
These are the recommendations I typically give for Haswell models.
For voltages up to 1.200v: Very Good Air Cooler (Hyper 212)
Up to 1.250v: Top Air Coolers (Phanteks PH-TC14-PE, Silver Arrow or Noctua DH14) – Dual 140mm CLC / AIO with 1500 rpm fans (Corsair H110)
Up to 1.275v: Extreme Speed Dual Fan CLC / AIO with 2700 rpm fans (too noisy for most users)
Up to 1.287v: Best air coolers (Cryorig R1 / Noctua DH-15)
Up to 1.300v: Swiftech AIOs (Swifteh H220-X / H240-X)
Up to 1.325v: Custom Loop with 15C Delta T (3 x 120mm / 140mm)
Up to 1.400: Custom Loop with 10C Delta T (5 x 140mm or 6 x 120mm)
A solid mount with at least 60 pounds of clamping force is essential, along with correct thermal paste application. Choosing the right TIM can lead to variations of up to 4°C or more.
However, a significant point is that P95 and similar synthetic coolers are no longer practical. Most users won’t rely on modern versions, but sticking with 26.6 seems sensible.
a) Why test with a cooler that applies loads far beyond what the PC typically experiences?
b) What’s the value when 24-hour stable P95 temperatures drop in minutes during intensive multitasking tests involving contemporary CPU instructions?
I suggest:
1. Remove the cooler and clean thoroughly with over 90% isopropyl alcohol
2. Use a high-quality thermal paste that costs more than the cooler itself, is AS5 certified, and has no issues with curing or capacitance
https://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/ind...itstart=12
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mDPfrH/...paste-g751
3. Apply the paste correctly following the cooler’s instructions
https://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/ind...iew&id=170
4. Follow proper pressure application (around 60 lbs) and sequencing as specified
https://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/ind...iew&id=170
5. Ensure the utility software is functioning correctly.
I experienced an issue once with a chip having 10*C between one core and the others. It was difficult to achieve 3,45GHz. After replacing it, I easily reached 3.72GHz. Do you know the history of the CPU? Did you purchase it used, possibly from China? If the first core is the hot one, it might have been overclocked and used for single-thread applications.
Thank you for your messages. I'm still trying to figure out if my PSU has any problems since there are some unusual behaviors with my OC. I attempted to remount the cooler and apply fresh thermal paste, but nothing worked. I'm planning to return it and consider switching to a better air cooler, such as a Noctua NH-U14s, especially because I have high-end RAM.