F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop The CPU cooler's mounting plate is firmly attached to the motherboard.

The CPU cooler's mounting plate is firmly attached to the motherboard.

The CPU cooler's mounting plate is firmly attached to the motherboard.

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HollyPiston609
Junior Member
46
12-21-2016, 06:43 PM
#1
I found myself in a bit of a predicament. I had previously fitted a 120mm Lepa AIO water cooler onto my CPU, but yesterday the pump failed. I planned to remove it and install a new one. After taking out the cooler, I attempted to unscrew the plastic components on the motherboard, but they didn’t budge. I tried pushing the pins backward to the front and even held them in place to try twisting off the plastic knobs, but nothing worked. It seems the plastic parts might be cross-threaded. My question is, should I use a Dremel to cut them off? I’m really unsure what to do next. Regarding the missing pin in the backplate, it just came out when I took the cooler off—maybe I was lucky.
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HollyPiston609
12-21-2016, 06:43 PM #1

I found myself in a bit of a predicament. I had previously fitted a 120mm Lepa AIO water cooler onto my CPU, but yesterday the pump failed. I planned to remove it and install a new one. After taking out the cooler, I attempted to unscrew the plastic components on the motherboard, but they didn’t budge. I tried pushing the pins backward to the front and even held them in place to try twisting off the plastic knobs, but nothing worked. It seems the plastic parts might be cross-threaded. My question is, should I use a Dremel to cut them off? I’m really unsure what to do next. Regarding the missing pin in the backplate, it just came out when I took the cooler off—maybe I was lucky.

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techtrails
Junior Member
49
12-22-2016, 03:19 AM
#2
The processor is an Intel 6700K, the case uses a Corsair spec 01, and I don’t know the motherboard brand.
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techtrails
12-22-2016, 03:19 AM #2

The processor is an Intel 6700K, the case uses a Corsair spec 01, and I don’t know the motherboard brand.

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xXFirewitherXx
Posting Freak
878
01-03-2017, 07:32 PM
#3
The backplate was secured by a method that might have been too forceful. It seems the installation could have been affected by over-tightening somewhere. The motherboard is from MSI, and they offer the "DDR4 Boost" variant.
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xXFirewitherXx
01-03-2017, 07:32 PM #3

The backplate was secured by a method that might have been too forceful. It seems the installation could have been affected by over-tightening somewhere. The motherboard is from MSI, and they offer the "DDR4 Boost" variant.

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maxis11111
Member
143
01-04-2017, 07:16 PM
#4
Make cuts in the screw heads on the back so a flat head screwdriver works easily
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maxis11111
01-04-2017, 07:16 PM #4

Make cuts in the screw heads on the back so a flat head screwdriver works easily

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Sergeant_P
Junior Member
40
01-26-2017, 01:47 PM
#5
At this stage I was considering that approach, but what methods would prevent sparks while cutting slits into the screws? Unless those sparks are acceptable.
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Sergeant_P
01-26-2017, 01:47 PM #5

At this stage I was considering that approach, but what methods would prevent sparks while cutting slits into the screws? Unless those sparks are acceptable.

_
_RedStar
Member
171
01-28-2017, 01:04 PM
#6
The backplate is secured to the board since the black components are pressing against the threads on those silver screws visible at the back of my PC. It’s held in place quite firmly, almost like a nut, though there seems to be an issue preventing me from simply grabbing the silver screw without causing it to spin. I matched the screws shown, and this is the one that came loose.
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_RedStar
01-28-2017, 01:04 PM #6

The backplate is secured to the board since the black components are pressing against the threads on those silver screws visible at the back of my PC. It’s held in place quite firmly, almost like a nut, though there seems to be an issue preventing me from simply grabbing the silver screw without causing it to spin. I matched the screws shown, and this is the one that came loose.

S
sclera
Junior Member
22
01-28-2017, 10:28 PM
#7
Couldn't you simply employ plyers to move the screw from the front? After all, it seems you don't plan to reuse them.
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sclera
01-28-2017, 10:28 PM #7

Couldn't you simply employ plyers to move the screw from the front? After all, it seems you don't plan to reuse them.

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mjt2789
Senior Member
483
02-13-2017, 12:53 AM
#8
It seems counterintuitive, yet these black plastic components won’t come off the screw threads as expected.
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mjt2789
02-13-2017, 12:53 AM #8

It seems counterintuitive, yet these black plastic components won’t come off the screw threads as expected.

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logan42211
Member
61
02-15-2017, 09:30 PM
#9
I don’t plan to reuse it, so I’m ready to dismantle the hardware.
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logan42211
02-15-2017, 09:30 PM #9

I don’t plan to reuse it, so I’m ready to dismantle the hardware.

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Sussu
Senior Member
708
02-15-2017, 10:25 PM
#10
I’m going to note some points and then offer ideas. The "pins" function like coach bolts; they aren’t attached to the back plate, suggesting the plastic spacers aren’t threaded. It’s likely the heat and pressure have changed their shape, making them fit better on the coach bolts than originally intended.

For the CPU block, use it as a guide to locate bolt positions on a wooden piece (roughly matching the backplate size). Drill holes in the wood so bolts sit flush over their heads. Support the motherboard with a drilled wooden block and secure it.

With a small hammer, gently drive the bolts into the wood block. The first tap should remove the fake threading on the spacers, causing everything to fall apart.

Alternatively, employ a drill chuck to grip the spacers, then leverage the pseudo-thread to unscrew and remove them. *Just a chuck, not the whole assembly.*

If you have side cutters, you can use them on the bolt heads to create a wedge for easier removal without cutting anything.
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Sussu
02-15-2017, 10:25 PM #10

I’m going to note some points and then offer ideas. The "pins" function like coach bolts; they aren’t attached to the back plate, suggesting the plastic spacers aren’t threaded. It’s likely the heat and pressure have changed their shape, making them fit better on the coach bolts than originally intended.

For the CPU block, use it as a guide to locate bolt positions on a wooden piece (roughly matching the backplate size). Drill holes in the wood so bolts sit flush over their heads. Support the motherboard with a drilled wooden block and secure it.

With a small hammer, gently drive the bolts into the wood block. The first tap should remove the fake threading on the spacers, causing everything to fall apart.

Alternatively, employ a drill chuck to grip the spacers, then leverage the pseudo-thread to unscrew and remove them. *Just a chuck, not the whole assembly.*

If you have side cutters, you can use them on the bolt heads to create a wedge for easier removal without cutting anything.

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