The computer begins functioning only after being heated using a heat gun?
The computer begins functioning only after being heated using a heat gun?
The dates and times don't come back to mind; it's as if everything is from 2019. I've changed the CMOS battery twice already, but it didn't help.
To Ralston:
I began with this additional power switch between the computer and the electricity grid after a PSU unexpectedly caught fire some years ago, even when the computer was off.
I turn off the computer through the Windows menu and only after everything has stopped (and the monitors are in standby) do I disconnect the power. I never cut it off too early.
To Misgar: Indeed, the CMOS battery was my initial concern too. That’s why I purchased a new 2032 battery a few weeks ago, but it didn’t help.
Last week I bought another battery from another store and another brand, yet no improvement was seen.
I don’t have a multimeter, but it seems unlikely (though not impossible) that two new batteries (A-brands) bought from two different shops would both be defective.
But I will check the battery holders for any issues.
I'm sorry, I probably didn't read the whole first post. Trying to repair something electronic using a heat gun isn't something I think is proper. Doing it a few times, even for a week or two—okay—but for months? Well, come on. I'm not trying to upset anyone's feelings, but there needs to be a specific process to get proper repairs. It's nice if you can fix it yourself, but it doesn't always work.
If you have some time, you could remove the components from the case and heat them separately with the heat gun. This might help narrow down the issue.
To Logan: my emotions aren’t affected.
At first, the issue happened only occasionally—every couple of weeks or so—and it wasn’t a major concern.
Over time, things got worse slowly; recently the machine stopped working entirely without heating, though it would still boot into Windows. Now, after about a week, I only see the BIOS screen once during the warm-up phase.
To better grasp computer problems, I usually try to fix things myself, but I haven’t found a solution yet. So I chose to ask the knowledgeable people on this forum for advice instead of sending the computer to a repair shop.
Here I discovered a multimeter helpful. The defective battery contact was fine, but when I linked the positive meter probe to the side contact it displayed 0V instead of about 3V. Shifting the probe to the top of the CR2032 showed 3.25V. A light adjustment with a small flat blade screwdriver and normal functioning were achieved.
Of course, it's just as possible that your CMOS battery holder is faulty and another part has failed.
If you can insert a metal nozzle for your heat gun, try to focus the heat on a specific spot instead of warming the entire case. If needed, split the interior into sections using pieces of cardboard to prevent heat from spreading.
This only confirms that the +5VSB standby rail is working. It doesn't confirm whether the main +5V and +12V rails are fully functional. Still, your computer operates normally for long periods once warmed up, so the PSU seems likely OK.
PSUs have a limited lifespan and secondary (low voltage) capacitors usually degrade. This leads to increased ripple voltage on the DC supply rails and reduced performance. Measuring ripple voltage with a multimeter set to DC Volts isn't sufficient; an oscilloscope is necessary. Note: This is unlikely to be your issue.
It's conceivable your PSU is defective, but I think the motherboard might be the problem. The safest approach would be to replace each component one by one until the fault disappears (which can become very costly).
Do you have a backup PSU?
Have you attempted to start the system with only two DIMMs in slots A2 and B2?
Are you using XMP/EXPO/DOCP settings? If yes, turn off memory overclocking.
Have you run MemTest86 (booting from USB) to verify the RAM is intact? Four DIMMs can cause issues at high XMP speeds, while two are often more stable.
Are the four DIMMs from a single set of four matched modules, or are they two pairs with possibly different memory chips and timing?
Do you have a spare graphics card? It doesn't need to be advanced.
Do you have a compatible backup CPU?
After carefully examining the interior of the computer, I noticed white corrosion on multiple aluminium parts and connectors, as well as on the case frame. This seems likely due to the high humidity levels (typically around 80% or higher) at my location near the sea.
The CMOS battery holder appeared dim, so I cleaned it and installed a fresh battery again. Additionally, I reconnected and reconnected all cables to the motherboard and power supply unit (the Corsair PSU is modular).
It’s possible that the gradual corrosion has led to more frequent electrical connection issues. Unfortunately, I won’t know for sure until tomorrow morning if things have improved.
Regarding Misgar’s comments:
- The 4 DIMM modules were sold in a single set of four matching units.
- I performed several module swaps without any noticeable effect.
- The memory remains unoverclocked.
- No, I don’t have a spare graphics card or power supply unit.
I attempted to identify the source of the problem by warming up certain components, but didn’t get a clear answer. Your idea of using cardboard to create a “compartment” is a helpful suggestion!
If the computer fails to start tomorrow morning (despite the corrosion removal steps), I’ll proceed with that method.
SkyNetRising would definitely address the issue, though I won't proceed since I don't wish for the system to operate overnight or when I'm away.