The computer begins functioning only after being heated using a heat gun?
The computer begins functioning only after being heated using a heat gun?
During the previous winter, my computer would occasionally fail to start, particularly on humid days. By chance, I discovered an online solution where someone used a heat gun to warm the case briefly. I experimented with it and it also helped me. However, the issue persisted more often over time, and now my computer requires daily warming sessions even though humidity is low in summer.
By last week, the machine no longer fully powers on: I see the BIOS screen and must run the SETUP procedure. The date and time are lost, bringing it back to 2019.
I've replaced the CMOS battery twice without any improvement. I attempted to locate the problem by warming up the power switch first, testing the CPU and memory, but nothing changed.
Simply blowing warm air into the case for a few minutes seems to get the computer running. Once it starts, it operates perfectly throughout the day, even under heavy loads. During the day, I can shut down and restart without issues, but the next morning the problem reappears.
This situation is quite frustrating, which is why I chose to ask for advice on this forum.
My intuition suggests something may be out of place.
Increasing temperatures lead to expansion, which tightens loose parts and improves contact, ensuring everything functions properly.
Until the next cooling phase...
Turn off the device, unplug it, and open the case.
Remove dust and debris, then inspect all connections—cards, RAM, jumpers, and the case itself—to confirm they are secure and properly positioned.
Use a bright flashlight to check for damage signs: exposed conductors, melting points, twisted or pinched wires, corrosion, cracks, moisture, swollen parts, loose screws, or sagging supports.
Also consider: how long has the power supply been used? Has it experienced heavy gaming sessions? An outdated or heavily used PSU could be a likely cause.
This issue might also stem from the age of the PSU itself.
Additionally, there might be a cold solder joint somewhere, likely at the VRM or PSU.
It seems like a powerful air blower would be necessary to repair a cold solder joint, as it might damage any plastic components inside the case before fixing the joint.
The issue might be either a faulty connection mentioned by someone else or a worn-out capacitor in the PS or on the motherboard that only slightly deteriorates and functions at operating temperatures.
It's likely a loose connection somewhere because of the system's age (the components suggest it's at least 4 years old). Sometimes the slots in the mobo expand over time or after repeated pugging/unplugging, which can prevent good contact. I experienced this with an ethernet port in an old mobo—it would lose connection randomly and sometimes reconnect if I adjusted the cable a bit because the port became loose.
Thank you for your responses.
To clarify a few points:
- The system is now four years old.
- The heatgun is modest in power, only 150 W, and I use it at about 30 cm for 2 to 3 minutes.
- The PSU is in a separate compartment at the bottom of the case, and I connect the heatgun through the side, so warm air from the gun likely doesn’t reach it.
- When I power on the system via a separate switch between the computer and the electricity supply before starting the PC, the RGB lights activate: this suggests the PSU is functioning properly.
I will inspect all connections as recommended by Ralston and provide feedback afterward.
Would it make sense to suspect the issue is near the BIOS chip because the computer stops displaying date and time at night?
When I activate power through a separate switch before starting the computer, the RGB lights in the case illuminate: this confirms the PSU is functioning correctly.
The same process is used to turn the computer off.
I do not rely on the Windows shutdown menu for shutting down.
Windows needs time to shut down properly and prepare for the next boot. Cutting power too soon can cause issues like corrupted files.
There could be additional factors at play beyond what appears.
In this situation, the system starts up but fails to boot Windows properly.
To narrow down the issue area, purchase a can of freezer spray and gradually cool each part one by one until the computer stops working (or not). This approach isn’t inexpensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Techspray-1672-10...B00Q882TBQ
Using a low-power hot air source with a small nozzle to focus heat and freezer spray is a common method for isolating faulty parts.
Watch: https://youtu.be/J9jROADpY2k
I applied this technique to a CD player that stopped working in winter until it warmed up. The problem was a big controller chip, which I replaced.
If you suspect a motherboard issue, swapping it out is often the simplest solution. You might also consider trying a different CPU, RAM, and GPU first.
How confident are you that the "new" CR2032 batteries were in good condition? It’s uncertain since their lifespan is measured in years. However, I always test batteries with a multimeter when handling them. If they’re around 3.25V, they’re fresh. When they fall below 2.75V, I replace them, even though they might still function for another year.
I once had a PC where the side contact inside the battery compartment wasn’t touching the healthy battery. It was warped. The consequence was that the BIOS kept losing time and date because the positive battery side was disconnected from the BIOS chip.