F5F Stay Refreshed Power Users Overclocking TEC build log start

TEC build log start

TEC build log start

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MiguelZipfel
Junior Member
40
06-02-2016, 03:58 PM
#1
I've completed all the testing and selected a general build for this unit. This build will be housed inside a chest, so I won't have direct access to the computer case. I'd appreciate some feedback on the overall concept I'm presenting. I use antifreeze, so freezing the coolant isn't a concern. Additionally, since I'm boosting the cooling capacity of my water cooling system, I've opted for new clock speeds—my CPU is set to 5Ghz and the GPU to 930Mhz. I've already verified these clocks and confirmed they're stable for my hardware.
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MiguelZipfel
06-02-2016, 03:58 PM #1

I've completed all the testing and selected a general build for this unit. This build will be housed inside a chest, so I won't have direct access to the computer case. I'd appreciate some feedback on the overall concept I'm presenting. I use antifreeze, so freezing the coolant isn't a concern. Additionally, since I'm boosting the cooling capacity of my water cooling system, I've opted for new clock speeds—my CPU is set to 5Ghz and the GPU to 930Mhz. I've already verified these clocks and confirmed they're stable for my hardware.

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applez13
Member
138
06-02-2016, 05:35 PM
#2
It appears overly intricate. What advantage do you think the vacuum setting offers? Condensation prevention? I would simply incorporate sensors and control temperatures above the dew point.
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applez13
06-02-2016, 05:35 PM #2

It appears overly intricate. What advantage do you think the vacuum setting offers? Condensation prevention? I would simply incorporate sensors and control temperatures above the dew point.

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a1ex2410
Member
56
06-04-2016, 04:24 PM
#3
I have a small camera inside the vacuum chamber to demonstrate that nothing is freezing. With no hardware running on the water loop except one TEC, the water reaches -35C, while only the CPU stays around 0C. I’ve tested this setup with the CPU and one TEC so far, but with a 5Ghz CPU it held at 38C under load. The goal was to improve hardware timing while maintaining the same temperatures I’m currently achieving. Now I aim for all components to operate between 25C and 50C during load.
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a1ex2410
06-04-2016, 04:24 PM #3

I have a small camera inside the vacuum chamber to demonstrate that nothing is freezing. With no hardware running on the water loop except one TEC, the water reaches -35C, while only the CPU stays around 0C. I’ve tested this setup with the CPU and one TEC so far, but with a 5Ghz CPU it held at 38C under load. The goal was to improve hardware timing while maintaining the same temperatures I’m currently achieving. Now I aim for all components to operate between 25C and 50C during load.

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SMITHI344
Junior Member
7
06-08-2016, 11:04 PM
#4
Wouldn't switching the vacuum to nitrogen produce the same result? No water to condense. However, it would be significantly simpler to handle.
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SMITHI344
06-08-2016, 11:04 PM #4

Wouldn't switching the vacuum to nitrogen produce the same result? No water to condense. However, it would be significantly simpler to handle.

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Odog000
Junior Member
31
06-09-2016, 12:08 AM
#5
i'm not familiar with nitrogen, but i've worked with vacuum chambers, which is why i know this method could be effective. the main challenge was locating a sufficiently large chest, so i ended up with a cube chest for $47. i had to drill a hole in it, seal it properly, and then run all the wires and soft copper tubing through it. despite these steps, it remained a fairly inexpensive solution for preventing ice buildup on my water blocks.
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Odog000
06-09-2016, 12:08 AM #5

i'm not familiar with nitrogen, but i've worked with vacuum chambers, which is why i know this method could be effective. the main challenge was locating a sufficiently large chest, so i ended up with a cube chest for $47. i had to drill a hole in it, seal it properly, and then run all the wires and soft copper tubing through it. despite these steps, it remained a fairly inexpensive solution for preventing ice buildup on my water blocks.

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xDeviantWolfe
Member
158
06-09-2016, 07:27 AM
#6
to give a sense of how near I am to finishing, I still require two power supplies. I’m currently using the powermax 12V 45A units, one for each TEC. I already have one, but I still need two 360mm radiators—four are available now, and I still need some connections for the water loops. These components will be possible upgrades for this project.

I plan to install a new motherboard, the asus rampage 4 black edition, for this build. I aim to upgrade to a 3960X CPU in the final configuration. Additionally, I want motherboard blocks for this project, which means I’m expecting a timeline of about six months to a year, depending on how many upgrades I choose to implement. The new rampage 4 black edition motherboard is almost essential for this build.
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xDeviantWolfe
06-09-2016, 07:27 AM #6

to give a sense of how near I am to finishing, I still require two power supplies. I’m currently using the powermax 12V 45A units, one for each TEC. I already have one, but I still need two 360mm radiators—four are available now, and I still need some connections for the water loops. These components will be possible upgrades for this project.

I plan to install a new motherboard, the asus rampage 4 black edition, for this build. I aim to upgrade to a 3960X CPU in the final configuration. Additionally, I want motherboard blocks for this project, which means I’m expecting a timeline of about six months to a year, depending on how many upgrades I choose to implement. The new rampage 4 black edition motherboard is almost essential for this build.

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jammerred40396
Junior Member
3
06-09-2016, 02:55 PM
#7
I'm really keen on this build log and have seen you on the Ryans TEC sticky, though I didn't hear he attempted watercooling the hot side of the TEC—it led to stalling. You'll likely need software to control waterflow when activating the peltiers to avoid temperatures getting out of hand.

It's a great concept, and I also want to mention: it's impressive that you're working on satellites!

Also, will this consume a lot of power? My main concern is that my dad said I couldn't use 200W just for cooling. My approach focuses on a solar panel and a big battery.

Great build, and I'm excited to follow its progress. Good luck!
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jammerred40396
06-09-2016, 02:55 PM #7

I'm really keen on this build log and have seen you on the Ryans TEC sticky, though I didn't hear he attempted watercooling the hot side of the TEC—it led to stalling. You'll likely need software to control waterflow when activating the peltiers to avoid temperatures getting out of hand.

It's a great concept, and I also want to mention: it's impressive that you're working on satellites!

Also, will this consume a lot of power? My main concern is that my dad said I couldn't use 200W just for cooling. My approach focuses on a solar panel and a big battery.

Great build, and I'm excited to follow its progress. Good luck!

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Sk8ter10
Junior Member
31
06-10-2016, 04:47 PM
#8
this design is closer to the final version. i have three 400mm tube reservoirs, which should provide sufficient cold storage. the cold side loop will also include a 250mm reservoir on the vacuum chamber exterior. the hot side loop is simply an extended version of my current setup, using six radiators instead of two.
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Sk8ter10
06-10-2016, 04:47 PM #8

this design is closer to the final version. i have three 400mm tube reservoirs, which should provide sufficient cold storage. the cold side loop will also include a 250mm reservoir on the vacuum chamber exterior. the hot side loop is simply an extended version of my current setup, using six radiators instead of two.

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Butterfly1416
Senior Member
701
06-13-2016, 03:27 AM
#9
So from a weight perspective, constructing a radiator box from wood for all six radiators is too heavy to handle easily. Therefore, I decided to attach the radiators to the top of the chest.

Igloo 60-Quart Ice Cube Roller Cooler
the case inside
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as...6811108464

I had to make several changes to the case so it would fit inside the chest—removed the stripes, cut off the bottom, and shortened it by three inches from top to bottom. After reattaching the bottom, it now fits perfectly.

I don’t suggest this method for everyone, as it’s time-consuming, requires many tools, and is costly. However, if you enjoy water cooling and want to upgrade your setup for better performance, this could be the right choice. TEC units are enjoyable to work with and offer plenty of tinkering opportunities.
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Butterfly1416
06-13-2016, 03:27 AM #9

So from a weight perspective, constructing a radiator box from wood for all six radiators is too heavy to handle easily. Therefore, I decided to attach the radiators to the top of the chest.

Igloo 60-Quart Ice Cube Roller Cooler
the case inside
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.as...6811108464

I had to make several changes to the case so it would fit inside the chest—removed the stripes, cut off the bottom, and shortened it by three inches from top to bottom. After reattaching the bottom, it now fits perfectly.

I don’t suggest this method for everyone, as it’s time-consuming, requires many tools, and is costly. However, if you enjoy water cooling and want to upgrade your setup for better performance, this could be the right choice. TEC units are enjoyable to work with and offer plenty of tinkering opportunities.

B
Breadstonee
Member
220
06-14-2016, 01:19 AM
#10
this material is layered with two kinds of clay
http://www.amazon.com/Malleable-Polymer-...aser+putty
it covers a 1/8 inch area around the entire cold side blocks and fittings, and this type of clay fits that purpose
http://www.amazon.com/FEITONG-TM-Malleab...TQ8PHS0FDW
the material is roughly 2 inches thick around the whole cold side assembly, it may look rough, but it works well—it prevents the cold side blocks and piping from forming into solid ice blocks.
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Breadstonee
06-14-2016, 01:19 AM #10

this material is layered with two kinds of clay
http://www.amazon.com/Malleable-Polymer-...aser+putty
it covers a 1/8 inch area around the entire cold side blocks and fittings, and this type of clay fits that purpose
http://www.amazon.com/FEITONG-TM-Malleab...TQ8PHS0FDW
the material is roughly 2 inches thick around the whole cold side assembly, it may look rough, but it works well—it prevents the cold side blocks and piping from forming into solid ice blocks.

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