System Legacy inactive or failure to start?
System Legacy inactive or failure to start?
Don't laugh, this computer has lasted longer than my marriage.
Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H
32 GB Corsair Vengence DDR3, 2 sticks of 16 gb each
Intel 3570 CPU, apologies, been so long I don't remember which one. (but at least it's not a Celeron!)
Western Digital black 1tb drive
I use it for my shop computer, yesterday afternoon it quietly died. In the past this was solved by replacing the CMOS battery, didn't work this time. Checked the Corsair power supply per their video, that's working fine.
Symptoms:
Upon pressing the power button there's a brief flash from the fan LEDs as they all spin up, then they spin down. No boot/bios messages at all, I've unplugged everything down to the CPU and memory,. Same with or without a hard drive attached.
I know she's a dinosaur of a system, but I only use her for record keeping, internet searches, and occasional flight simming when I need a break. Way past he expiration date and I should just build a new system, but money's a bit tight right now.
Any other thoughts?
TIA
Have you looked beneath the CPU cooler to verify if the thermal paste has hardened?
no error lights appearing on the motherboard after trying to boot
if you lack replacement components, consider reaching out to nearby stores for hardware support.
in such cases, it might be wise to opt for a more affordable, reliable laptop instead.
you can use a dock or adapter for the old WD Black drive to restore your files.
Is this the Corsair video you used to check the PSU?
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4
If so, all it proves is there's enough current available on the 12V rail to run a single 120mm case fan from a Molex connector. It hardly constitutes a "proper" test.
This simple test doesn't place a representative load on the EPS-12V rail, or the PCIe GPU rail or the +5V rail. I'm ignoring the +3.3V rail and a -12V rail (if it exists).
If you have another known good PSU, drop it into the chassis and see if the system powers up. You could transplant the Corsair PSU into another system as a confidence check.
If your Corsair PSU is a low end CX or VM unit and is more than 5 years old, it's living on borrowed time.
Thermal paste worked fine with the i5-3570 chip. No power or warning lights appeared on the Mb. The video I used was from a Corsair TX750 power supply. There wasn't a local shop worth visiting except Best Buy Geek Squad, which didn't seem worthwhile. Ironically, I recently bought a new Acer laptop and prefer the setup of a tower with multiple live hard drives. With over 60 years of experience, I find it helpful to have immediate access to storage without having to remember which drive is active. Perhaps I'll start with a different Mb and see how it goes. I'm sure I'll face some price adjustments, but is NewEgg still a reliable brand?
The described symptom might point to a minor issue within the system. The PSU includes built-in short-circuit protection. If it identifies a problem, it will stop immediately to avoid harming the motherboard.
i still rely on them quite often when they offer better prices on amazon.
i would really consider this a step towards a complete new build.
if you only replace each part until the system functions again, you might spend a lot of money on an outdated setup.
you could simply install an external dock to mount your existing drives.
i'm confident that any modern laptop you buy is significantly more powerful and offers better accessibility than the old intel i5.
once it's set up with the laptop, the drives will keep their original drive letters and behave the same when reconnected.
each time you need to access something, just turn on the dock and your files will be ready.
It's true, I recently replaced an i5-3570K with a new SATA SSD after the previous one failed and Windows became unstable. Although it only has four 2TB hard drives, it serves as a backup for other setups. I recognize that gradually swapping parts until the issue is resolved can become costly, but I understand your hesitation about giving up a multi-drive tower. I own a large number of such machines over time.
In the past, I upgraded a friend's PC using a second-hand motherboard/CPU/RAM bundle purchased from eBay for under $50. Most of the second-hand components I've acquired on eBay are reliable, though I also construct new systems every 3 to 4 years.
Replacing the old motherboard/CPU/RAM with a reasonably priced new set should be straightforward if the goal is simply to match the performance of the i5. I recommend a DDR4 configuration if you aim to keep costs low.
I favor full ATX motherboards in tower configurations, allowing for a SAS controller (compatible with LTO drives) and a 10GbE NIC, along with a GPU.
Hey everyone, I’ve been considering a new build too and still really dislike this case. I can reuse the HDs, and the video card (the old GTX 1050) is also fine, which helps save some effort.
I really miss the days when you could pick your own motherboard from ASUS, MCI, or Gigabyte and visit Fry’s to check things out in person.
I’m also thinking about just being a bit lazy and buying this one here:
https://www.costco.com/cyberpowerpc...fo...02717.html
It’s been a while since I bought something off the rack and didn’t build my own. Do you think modifying it might affect the warranty?
typically this applies only to a pre-built model with a distributor's seal on the case and/or certain devices that need to be taken off or cut to reach. beyond that, it's impossible to confirm if anything has been altered. i would reach out to the manufacturer first to be certain, just in case.