F5F Stay Refreshed Power Users Overclocking Some more FrankenResults

Some more FrankenResults

Some more FrankenResults

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T
TitoPvP17
Member
62
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM
#11
The water fountain chiller is generally a compact component that can be removed easily.
T
TitoPvP17
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM #11

The water fountain chiller is generally a compact component that can be removed easily.

N
nenette24
Member
149
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM
#12
I checked that and the most affordable I found was £50; it falls within the budget for a new CPU block, or possibly a power supply for some Peltiers and even heat sinks with mounted Peltiers. Other sites only provided glossy brochures, which is usually a sign of higher costs—over £1000 to dismantle? Really. Definitely no point in that. I’m planning to try drilling and using tubing!
N
nenette24
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM #12

I checked that and the most affordable I found was £50; it falls within the budget for a new CPU block, or possibly a power supply for some Peltiers and even heat sinks with mounted Peltiers. Other sites only provided glossy brochures, which is usually a sign of higher costs—over £1000 to dismantle? Really. Definitely no point in that. I’m planning to try drilling and using tubing!

N
Nero12321
Posting Freak
858
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM
#13
Find an used one !!
N
Nero12321
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM #13

Find an used one !!

W
Warrior756
Junior Member
2
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM
#14
It doesn't exist there is nobody who don't want that
a 500l water butt & pump is feasible for £50. But there isn't any documentation saying it could run 24/7; but it has an insane flow & a 12m head. Any thermal benefit to that huge volume of water? At least it would actually fit under my desk.
The heat exchanger is a better idea. Starting at £10 used with copper and stainless steel; that will go on my to do list. Question though; if heat exchangers are THE sol'n why hasn't the pc water cooling industry adopted them? Hard to credit that nobody has researched that.
W
Warrior756
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM #14

It doesn't exist there is nobody who don't want that
a 500l water butt & pump is feasible for £50. But there isn't any documentation saying it could run 24/7; but it has an insane flow & a 12m head. Any thermal benefit to that huge volume of water? At least it would actually fit under my desk.
The heat exchanger is a better idea. Starting at £10 used with copper and stainless steel; that will go on my to do list. Question though; if heat exchangers are THE sol'n why hasn't the pc water cooling industry adopted them? Hard to credit that nobody has researched that.

N
Ninjas_R_OP
Senior Member
743
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM
#15
Right well today's aggro has got me
http://v67i.imgup.net/widerflow5dcc.jpg
one more step. the fitting on the right is the 10mm I drilled out; the one on the left is the 10mm with the 8mm channel; and the one on the top shows that I can simply attach the 15/12mm pcv hose directly to the screw thread rather than using 12/10mm hose with a compression coupler nut and olive; the thread actually cuts a counter thread in the pvc so it doesn't pull off. The jub clip is for extra safety. Water is ultimately runny stuff that gets everywhere in small amounts through any crevice or nook; can't leave it to chance.
So this will widen my flow channel and hopefully counter some of the pressure drop. 8mm to 10mm is some math I can understand: 20% is not insignificant.
I also got some more 3/4 reinforced flexihose to go on the larger 15mm side of the coupler; so I get no pressure drop or very little from the hose.
This for the cause of re -working the loop; I can come off the pump 3/4 inch from the reservoir; from there go to the cpu block; but before the cpu block I'm going to put the second pump. It seems to me that it makes sense to put the most shove at the point where there is the most pressure drop. I know it's not my rad because testing that by the sink with both pumps gets me 10l/pm flow. Huge. So it has to be the couplers and the cpu block causing the pressure drop; since 3/4 inch doesn't register any pressure drop according to some documentation I found online; If I go 3/4 inch right up to the cpu block, to a pump, and then have the coupler step it down to 10mm as close to the cpu fitting as possible;
If you get my idea; it will shove the water through with the most force the second pump can generate being right next to it practically; so hopefully that will get me my 1gallon per minute idealized flow according to the theory I've been provided with;
If the pump just can't do it from that position I will know anyway that the cpu block is the worst pressure drop bottleneck in the loop; therefore I might consider one with wider fittings diameter/modding it with bigger fittings/or an entirely new cpu block designed for high flow.
I'm shutting down a few hours to apply my mods.
Back; I was slowed down seriously by what must've been the king of drips; I'm talking Elvis. I wrapped it in tape and glued it with the hot glue gun; wrapped it in more tape & more glue; and more glue and more tape; still it dripped. More tape more glue. Finally stemmed it. I think the problem was down to the 3/4 inch reinforced hose being of a spiral so I could not get any hose clamps or cable ties to sit tight because it always crossed a wedge of plastic. Got it now anyway. Maybe I will buy a bigger hose clamp as well, and something to wrap it in. Just one of those things, a perfect storm kind of drip. The one that brings you to the edge of the remains of your sanity; the kind of drip that could end your career.
All that bother huffing and puffing replacing the hose with 3/4 inch and the 8mm couplers with 10mm drilled out couplers got me another maybe 300ml flow; again by the sink, with the rad. and both pumps, the return flow was huge; 10l/pm easy. Connected to the cpu block in situ; the return flow is about 1700ml p/m. Still getting an 80% pressure drop from somewhere; the first pump is feeding the second pump which is feeding the cpu block feeding the rad feeding the return to the res.
Something weird has happened to my temps though; according to the therm on my desk; the in temp (ambient) is 19.5c. I am watching the water temp slowly creed up 0.1c every couple of minutes and it's 21c as I type. That is a delta t of 1.5 from a cold start. It will probably warm up a bit more after a while & certainly under a load. But the temp. isn't rising as fast as it was. The cpu package temp is 25c. and the core temp is 25c. I'm now at 4.9ghz.
The temperature has dropped huge and I can't really explain it. My previous cold starts I think warmed up faster than this. I think I have gained something for my efforts; hard to say how much guess I'll just leave it to see what happens. Maybe the pump has to work less hard pumping through 3/4 inch; and puts out less heat.
http://h78i.imgup.net/4917mhz0921.jpg
This is the result so far on a prime95 torture test; looks like it's going to make it this time! That's the 4.9ghz badge; only half an hour to go to make it 2 hours. I'm running it while I browse and type; it's not locking up on me.
I took the jpeg saved & uploaded it and edited here no problems; the delta t at 100% stress + a bit of typing is 10.4c ambient is 21.1c. The water temp is 31.5c.
http://i40i.imgup.net/4917tortur1538.jpg
Tadaaaa!
I knew it was going to make 4.9ghz.
Still got a couple more tweaks in mind to finally turn the corner on 5ghz if that is possible; I have decided to tie clumps of fins together on the rad. and solder them at intervals + the end pieces to give some better contact & also to give it back it's rigidity; that should do more something for it; plus I'm going to solder the heatsink on to the jardiniere; next time I'm going to get the gorilla glue on the drips.
idle water temp has dropped back to 25.7c from a peak load under p95 torture for 2 hours of 31.5c. As ambient is ~20c I get a delta t of between 5-10c; sometimes ambient goes up to 21c guess that is the pc putting out heat into the environment near the radiator & so on.
Got a heatsink stuck to the base but it wasn't the 150w arctic freezer I had left over. That just wouldn't stick I couldn't get it hot enough with the gas stove, heat gun and soldering iron all together; I would need a propylene torch. This presents another problem; if it gets too hot the heatpipes could rupture ejecting superheated steam. That idea is looking like scratch that.
I had a nice copper core heatsink from goodness knows where probably an old pentium 4 and that stuck & I only needed the heat gun. It does not seem to be doing anything. I have got fixtures for it and I attached a 80mm fan to it plus an exhaust funnel; nada observable difference.
So I might try a high volume fan on it but as I don't have an external pwm controller I'm a bit stuck; it is a pretty simple circuit to make you need a resistor only I think but otherwise pwm fans simply don't work on dc unless you can trip the speed regulator circuit.
I didn't mess with sticking the fins on the side of the jardiniere; it is quite doable but I spent so long trying to get the arctic freezer to stick that I just wanted to get my pc up and running again. As I only have the one reservoir. So I'll come back to that another day; maybe later in the weekend. I think it's worth it to polish up the delta T a bit; I'm not happy with a mere 'good' 10c at full load.
N
Ninjas_R_OP
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM #15

Right well today's aggro has got me
http://v67i.imgup.net/widerflow5dcc.jpg
one more step. the fitting on the right is the 10mm I drilled out; the one on the left is the 10mm with the 8mm channel; and the one on the top shows that I can simply attach the 15/12mm pcv hose directly to the screw thread rather than using 12/10mm hose with a compression coupler nut and olive; the thread actually cuts a counter thread in the pvc so it doesn't pull off. The jub clip is for extra safety. Water is ultimately runny stuff that gets everywhere in small amounts through any crevice or nook; can't leave it to chance.
So this will widen my flow channel and hopefully counter some of the pressure drop. 8mm to 10mm is some math I can understand: 20% is not insignificant.
I also got some more 3/4 reinforced flexihose to go on the larger 15mm side of the coupler; so I get no pressure drop or very little from the hose.
This for the cause of re -working the loop; I can come off the pump 3/4 inch from the reservoir; from there go to the cpu block; but before the cpu block I'm going to put the second pump. It seems to me that it makes sense to put the most shove at the point where there is the most pressure drop. I know it's not my rad because testing that by the sink with both pumps gets me 10l/pm flow. Huge. So it has to be the couplers and the cpu block causing the pressure drop; since 3/4 inch doesn't register any pressure drop according to some documentation I found online; If I go 3/4 inch right up to the cpu block, to a pump, and then have the coupler step it down to 10mm as close to the cpu fitting as possible;
If you get my idea; it will shove the water through with the most force the second pump can generate being right next to it practically; so hopefully that will get me my 1gallon per minute idealized flow according to the theory I've been provided with;
If the pump just can't do it from that position I will know anyway that the cpu block is the worst pressure drop bottleneck in the loop; therefore I might consider one with wider fittings diameter/modding it with bigger fittings/or an entirely new cpu block designed for high flow.
I'm shutting down a few hours to apply my mods.
Back; I was slowed down seriously by what must've been the king of drips; I'm talking Elvis. I wrapped it in tape and glued it with the hot glue gun; wrapped it in more tape & more glue; and more glue and more tape; still it dripped. More tape more glue. Finally stemmed it. I think the problem was down to the 3/4 inch reinforced hose being of a spiral so I could not get any hose clamps or cable ties to sit tight because it always crossed a wedge of plastic. Got it now anyway. Maybe I will buy a bigger hose clamp as well, and something to wrap it in. Just one of those things, a perfect storm kind of drip. The one that brings you to the edge of the remains of your sanity; the kind of drip that could end your career.
All that bother huffing and puffing replacing the hose with 3/4 inch and the 8mm couplers with 10mm drilled out couplers got me another maybe 300ml flow; again by the sink, with the rad. and both pumps, the return flow was huge; 10l/pm easy. Connected to the cpu block in situ; the return flow is about 1700ml p/m. Still getting an 80% pressure drop from somewhere; the first pump is feeding the second pump which is feeding the cpu block feeding the rad feeding the return to the res.
Something weird has happened to my temps though; according to the therm on my desk; the in temp (ambient) is 19.5c. I am watching the water temp slowly creed up 0.1c every couple of minutes and it's 21c as I type. That is a delta t of 1.5 from a cold start. It will probably warm up a bit more after a while & certainly under a load. But the temp. isn't rising as fast as it was. The cpu package temp is 25c. and the core temp is 25c. I'm now at 4.9ghz.
The temperature has dropped huge and I can't really explain it. My previous cold starts I think warmed up faster than this. I think I have gained something for my efforts; hard to say how much guess I'll just leave it to see what happens. Maybe the pump has to work less hard pumping through 3/4 inch; and puts out less heat.
http://h78i.imgup.net/4917mhz0921.jpg
This is the result so far on a prime95 torture test; looks like it's going to make it this time! That's the 4.9ghz badge; only half an hour to go to make it 2 hours. I'm running it while I browse and type; it's not locking up on me.
I took the jpeg saved & uploaded it and edited here no problems; the delta t at 100% stress + a bit of typing is 10.4c ambient is 21.1c. The water temp is 31.5c.
http://i40i.imgup.net/4917tortur1538.jpg
Tadaaaa!
I knew it was going to make 4.9ghz.
Still got a couple more tweaks in mind to finally turn the corner on 5ghz if that is possible; I have decided to tie clumps of fins together on the rad. and solder them at intervals + the end pieces to give some better contact & also to give it back it's rigidity; that should do more something for it; plus I'm going to solder the heatsink on to the jardiniere; next time I'm going to get the gorilla glue on the drips.
idle water temp has dropped back to 25.7c from a peak load under p95 torture for 2 hours of 31.5c. As ambient is ~20c I get a delta t of between 5-10c; sometimes ambient goes up to 21c guess that is the pc putting out heat into the environment near the radiator & so on.
Got a heatsink stuck to the base but it wasn't the 150w arctic freezer I had left over. That just wouldn't stick I couldn't get it hot enough with the gas stove, heat gun and soldering iron all together; I would need a propylene torch. This presents another problem; if it gets too hot the heatpipes could rupture ejecting superheated steam. That idea is looking like scratch that.
I had a nice copper core heatsink from goodness knows where probably an old pentium 4 and that stuck & I only needed the heat gun. It does not seem to be doing anything. I have got fixtures for it and I attached a 80mm fan to it plus an exhaust funnel; nada observable difference.
So I might try a high volume fan on it but as I don't have an external pwm controller I'm a bit stuck; it is a pretty simple circuit to make you need a resistor only I think but otherwise pwm fans simply don't work on dc unless you can trip the speed regulator circuit.
I didn't mess with sticking the fins on the side of the jardiniere; it is quite doable but I spent so long trying to get the arctic freezer to stick that I just wanted to get my pc up and running again. As I only have the one reservoir. So I'll come back to that another day; maybe later in the weekend. I think it's worth it to polish up the delta T a bit; I'm not happy with a mere 'good' 10c at full load.

E
EnderTj17
Junior Member
7
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM
#16
FrankenDesign :
Wondering why heat exchangers aren't the answer yet—why hasn't the PC water cooling market embraced them? It's surprising that nobody looked into it.
Lol:
How do you define a radiator? It might not be called a heat exchanger, but that's precisely its role.
It transfers heat from the coolant moving through it to the air passing over the fin grid.
E
EnderTj17
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM #16

FrankenDesign :
Wondering why heat exchangers aren't the answer yet—why hasn't the PC water cooling market embraced them? It's surprising that nobody looked into it.
Lol:
How do you define a radiator? It might not be called a heat exchanger, but that's precisely its role.
It transfers heat from the coolant moving through it to the air passing over the fin grid.

M
maartengamesnl
Junior Member
16
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM
#17
This refers to a heat exchanger similar to those used in boats. It involves a closed loop radiator with water flow in the environment, preventing dirty or saltwater from entering the engines.
M
maartengamesnl
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM #17

This refers to a heat exchanger similar to those used in boats. It involves a closed loop radiator with water flow in the environment, preventing dirty or saltwater from entering the engines.

K
kleinne_meid
Member
228
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM
#18
I understand that radiators are heat exchangers! However, they are often referred to as radiators. Devices like those in a combi boiler are also known as heat exchangers; they function as closed-loop fluid heat exchangers. Given their small size, I wondered what would happen if I combined an air compressor with another radiator and simply pushed the water through it before reaching the CPU. The only uncertainty is determining the right air compressor power. I was also planning to research refrigerant gases, and I read that cooling comes from the expansion of pressurized gas, requiring various sized tubing as the fluid changes phases. I’m not entirely sure how these elements connect, but I’ve seen air compressors for around £10, heat exchangers for about £10, and fridge radiators with fins all for £25 new. I’m not sure if there’s a way to source something similar, perhaps from a boxed fridge.

In essence, it would create a dual-loop system: one loop to cool the water and another to cool the CPU. If the water could be sufficiently chilled, I might relocate the radiator to act as a heat exchanger instead. That would mean a setup like -res-exchanger-cpu- and the second loop handling the gas compressor and radiator. The fluids would meet at the heat exchanger, forming the evaporator.

In this scenario, the radiator would serve as the condenser. It’s likely they use narrow-gauge tubing so the refrigerant doesn’t decompress before reaching the evaporator. You’d probably need a few valves on it, and another question is where to place the thermostat. Would connecting it to the CPU PWM monitor help? For instance, you could chill the reservoir water to 15°C, but the CPU would then heat it up; alternatively, chilling the water to 15°C as it passes through the block would result in a lower actual temperature, depending on the situation. It probably depends on what you’re aiming for.

Looking into refrigerants, there are many challenges: most gases are toxic, polluting, flammable or explosive, need high pressure for safe operation, or are too cold. It seems possible given the existence of refrigerators, but figuring out the right refrigerant choice and compatible fittings is tricky. The circuit design itself appears quite ingenious.
K
kleinne_meid
04-28-2024, 03:50 PM #18

I understand that radiators are heat exchangers! However, they are often referred to as radiators. Devices like those in a combi boiler are also known as heat exchangers; they function as closed-loop fluid heat exchangers. Given their small size, I wondered what would happen if I combined an air compressor with another radiator and simply pushed the water through it before reaching the CPU. The only uncertainty is determining the right air compressor power. I was also planning to research refrigerant gases, and I read that cooling comes from the expansion of pressurized gas, requiring various sized tubing as the fluid changes phases. I’m not entirely sure how these elements connect, but I’ve seen air compressors for around £10, heat exchangers for about £10, and fridge radiators with fins all for £25 new. I’m not sure if there’s a way to source something similar, perhaps from a boxed fridge.

In essence, it would create a dual-loop system: one loop to cool the water and another to cool the CPU. If the water could be sufficiently chilled, I might relocate the radiator to act as a heat exchanger instead. That would mean a setup like -res-exchanger-cpu- and the second loop handling the gas compressor and radiator. The fluids would meet at the heat exchanger, forming the evaporator.

In this scenario, the radiator would serve as the condenser. It’s likely they use narrow-gauge tubing so the refrigerant doesn’t decompress before reaching the evaporator. You’d probably need a few valves on it, and another question is where to place the thermostat. Would connecting it to the CPU PWM monitor help? For instance, you could chill the reservoir water to 15°C, but the CPU would then heat it up; alternatively, chilling the water to 15°C as it passes through the block would result in a lower actual temperature, depending on the situation. It probably depends on what you’re aiming for.

Looking into refrigerants, there are many challenges: most gases are toxic, polluting, flammable or explosive, need high pressure for safe operation, or are too cold. It seems possible given the existence of refrigerators, but figuring out the right refrigerant choice and compatible fittings is tricky. The circuit design itself appears quite ingenious.

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