Some games are experiencing crashes.
Some games are experiencing crashes.
Task manager displays base speed at 3.2 GHz, idling between 1-3 GHz, while BIOS and certain programs report 5.7 GHz with fluctuations from 1 GHz to 6 GHz. After undervolting, clock speed remains around 1.1-4.4 GHz and occasionally reaches 6 GHz. The 1600 W rating came from a $300 PSU versus cheaper options around $1200. I’m considering a UPS and reaching out to Gigabyte since there’s limited information online about this issue.
It seems you're considering a few different paths here. On one hand, it's possible your system is struggling with power quality, which could stem from a faulty motherboard or CPU cooler. On the other hand, you're thinking about using a UPS, which has helped you in the past. Keep in mind that your current power supply is only 1500VA, while your PSU is rated at 1600VA—this matters a lot for stability. The quality of power really does impact performance. Also, double-check that your CPU cooler is properly seated; that’s something you should confirm. Regarding the PSU itself, while it isn’t perfect, it’s not unreliable either. The key is ensuring your graphics and power components are up to the task. Don’t rush into a cheap solution—graphics and power are crucial parts of any build.
Right now I'm at my college dorm, but I'll be back home on Thursday if I need to do anymore testing with it. I've looked into the UPS which are 2000va, do you have any recommendations? The prices that I see are everywhere from 200-2000+ for the same kva. I mounted the radiator at the top of the case as that is the only place it would fit so I don't believe that the airbubbles could be trapped. I also replaced the thermal paste to make sure, I'll take a picture when I get back of the inside of the case, but I'm 90% sure that the CPU Cooler is correctly installed. You can check out the reviews from NEWEGG for the PSU, I'm 80% sure that the PSU is not the problem. https://www.newegg.com/super-flower-lead...c8h3E7uJZQ
Personally I don't trust newegg anymore. It's basically just become Amazon and bloated with a pile of Chinese crap and poor customer service. Luckily I have a micro center near me that I can drive to when I need stuff. If you got one near campus or home, I highly recommend just going there even an hour drive is worth it. I think both of my UPS's are 1500va and were about $215 a piece. Looking at higher end UPSs it looks like you might have an issue there. The best value I found was a $800 2200va rack mounted one. So you might be better off figuring out what's with your CPU/Mobo first. You could try getting a 1500va for $200 and see what happens. I really wish I had a better answer for you. CPU is probably fine since typical errors keep it from posting. You could look into seeing if there's an update for your Mobo BIOS. Oddly enough PSU issues don't cause immediate failures, it'll usually work until under load and you get a BSOD or it'll eventually just quit. Next time you get a BSOD try to remember what the error code is. Or even get a picture of it if you can. Sorry that I'm leaning so hard against the PSU, all the evidence just seems to be pointing towards it.
You only experience BSOD when adjusting CPU settings. If you've had other issues: check C:\Windows\Minidump for any files. Return to Windows and copy the Minidump folder to your Downloads folder (desktop works if OneDrive isn't syncing). Compress the copied folder and send it in a message. Please follow instructions carefully as Windows dislikes modifying certain locations.
I wish I had a micro center nearby, but I’m in Phoenix and none are available. Otherwise, I might have obtained my components locally. The motherboard BIOS is current, with the latest update on March 22. It seems the issue isn’t likely due to software, as all my drivers are up to date. I don’t have a PSU powerful enough to run the system. I’m uncertain if you’ve verified the exact specifications; it could be compatibility or other problems. If you’d like to review, here’s the link: https://www.super-flower.com.tw/en/produ...1201134111. I experienced BSODs only during CPU configuration changes, requiring a BIOS/CMOS reset to boot after setting the multiplier to 50.
Everything appears fine in documentation. In reality, I'm not claiming the PSU is defective. All issues seem tied to the PSU. As mentioned earlier, running on 120V can pose serious challenges for a high-wattage PSU, particularly when your motherboard demands excessive power. Or simply dealing with poor-quality power from the grid. Now, considering this (just a thought), there might be another BIOS setting in the CPU area linked to the multiplier. I don’t remember its name, but it likely falls between 100 and 105, or it’s set to auto. If it’s set too high—even just over 105—it can lead to instability similar to overclocking, though it’s not the same. Simply put, it acts as a secondary multiplier. For example: 50 x 100 equals 5000 (5GHz), 57 x 100 gives 5700 (5.7GHz), 57 x 105 equals about 5985 (5.985GHz), and 50 x 105 gives roughly 5250 (5.25GHz). This suggests your CPU might be struggling to hit stable speeds, possibly due to only a few cores reaching consistent frequencies. I’m surprised it passed quality checks, but the spec says the CPU maxes out at around 3.2GHz. I’d probably revert the undervolting and adjust the multiplier to 44 or 45, setting the secondary value to 100 instead of letting it auto. Have you ever examined the error messages? This could really clarify what your system is reporting about the issue.
Sorry, I haven’t replied lately because I’ve been busy and haven’t returned home for a few weeks. Are you asking about the CPU Base Clock or something else? When I press the CPU Base Clock button, it drops to a minimum of 80.0 MHz. I might take a photo of my BIOS and you could help, but right now I’m sticking with the under-voltage setting since changing it in BIOS caused a blue screen and prevented booting.
The main timing reference is correct. The CPU clock ratio is the key parameter to adjust. It seems it's currently set at 32, yet the system reports a frequency of 5700MHz. I'm unsure if you can disable auto-adjustment, particularly the base clock setting. If the ratio is indeed 32, it shouldn't exceed 3200MHz. You might also consider matching the Efficiency cores to the same value. Additionally, if your core voltage is at 1.2V, that aligns with typical recommendations. It's unclear where this setting originated. I believe 1.35V is the current safe upper limit. If you leave the 'undervolt' setting on and revert the ratio to around 44 or 50, it should resolve the issue. However, if you continue experiencing problems, investigating further would be wise. It might also help to reach out to manufacturers for clarification. If you encounter further errors, note the corresponding error code for more accurate troubleshooting.