Setting up the Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Setting up the Cooler Master Hyper 212+
Thanks
Hi
Kralnor
1- The Hyper 212+ includes thermal grease (I believe it's included in all coolers too), I used it, but as I mentioned earlier, it's not essential to apply it all; just use the right amount to fully cover your CPU.
2- I follow the same pressure you mentioned, since the screws on the retention plate have a limit. I just keep applying pressure until that point. Why? Because if the cooler isn't properly adjusted to the CPU, overheating could occur. Also, if you can shift the cooler during installation, it means it wasn't fully aligned with the screws.
3- When setting the fan orientation, remember your cooler's fans: the rear and top side fans are exhaust fans, while the front side fans are intake fans. I place the fan in the same orientation as the intake fans, since airflow flows from the front to the back of the case. The opposite is correct for the fan facing the GPU, with the large top fan for exhaust.
Thanks for your response. It looks like I installed the fan in the same position as you did, which is perfect. I couldn't move the HSF once it was secured, so that's also fine. The temperatures are great, much better than with the original HSF and even at low fan speeds.
Kralnor:
Also a quick note because I couldn't edit my last post. I didn't install the big nut on my socket LGA775 motherboard at all. Wasn't necessary really, since I couldn't tell exactly where it should go. The big nut is just for applying pressure to the smaller nuts and helps align the back plate against the back side of the motherboard. It prevents it from being installed in the motherboard or the cooler. I use it mainly for better guidance when placing all the components that come with the cooler, but I think it's better used that way since it comes with the cooler for some reason.
overshocked :
LOL, what country you live in?
I was also considering getting the EOS REBEL XTi
I have the Cannon Rebel XSi it really is a great DSLR. The XTi is a slightly lower end model (10mp, no spot meter, XSi uses SDHC) Anyways I got mine on sale for $579~ from wolfcamera less than year ago~ so it was a really good deal.
Also the:
Sony Cyber-shot DSC-S950
Is pretty good for $100 camera. Definitely beat the competitors at that price range, I was surprised none the less. I helped one of my cousins shop for a $100~ camera, the Sony Cyber shot took the lead in her budget.
Quick Guide to sub $200~ cameras for overshocked:
Spoiler
One of the easiest ways to split shady image processors from good ones is to point the camera at a light source, preferably with lamp shade surrounding it. If it can clear out the brightness, focus on the light bulb/shade, and produce a great image/color without being glared/contrasted to a degree of unrealism, then it passes the first step and can be considered for future testing. If it contrasts too much, excuse that camera as you will most likely get resounding blacks due to high contrast, and also color hue will be off due to the contrasting/hue/saturation that takes place at the image processor.. Another test is how well the lens is guarded. Is it a plastic lid, closing shutters? (closing shutters should be tested for durability, plastic lid is always a better choice for those who are responsible enough to use it and provided the seal is good. After contrast/light bulb test the rest is up to the image quality, then quality of camera casing/lcd/warranty/brand etc.. Image quality is tricky. The best thing to do is to focus one intricate item with as much plain back ground as possible as to not confuse the auto focus, zoom in using the LCD.