Setting up Ethernet in a 60-year-old home wiring requires careful planning.
Setting up Ethernet in a 60-year-old home wiring requires careful planning.
This property lacks Ethernet connections. I’ve discovered only a single phone jack, and connectivity remains an issue. I’m upgrading this home to modern standards and would appreciate some guidance. Initially, I plan to install dedicated wall outlets and run wiring through the walls—this is feasible since I have access to the attic. I need suggestions on the best approach. Should I purchase 50-foot cables and connect each room outlet to a separate 6-port outlet near my router, then link all those ports to the router? (Note: My router lacks sufficient ports to bypass this setup.) Alternatively, could I run the cables up to a central switch located in the attic, which would only have one outlet near the router? Also, what type of cabling should I use? Cat5, Cat6, or Cat7? Given my current speed of around 500 Mbps on a good day, I believe Cat5e will suffice. If there’s a more efficient method, please let me know. Thanks!
Order a large roll of cable, about 1000 feet long, and secure the ends yourself. Typically you'd get a wall jack and a patch panel at one end, but if temperatures vary widely, run the cables to an internal switch and connect the patch panel there. Then plug everything into the switch. Five-eleven can handle it, but saving six might be better.
The structure dates back to the 1950s, possibly a greenfield site. Knob and tube wiring wasn’t banned everywhere until the late 1960s, so older installations might still exist. If you find knob and tube, it usually means the building has been updated recently—check for outlets with more than two slots. If you have funds, a full renovation is possible: remove walls and ceilings, replace the entire system. If you see no two-hole outlets, it could indicate a newer build or a heavily modernized home. Knob and tube lacks grounding, relying on air insulation. The system uses ceramic knobs spaced several feet apart, with jute insulation between them, often arranged in an umbrella pattern. Wiring typically begins at the service drop and runs along walls. Many homes get updated while keeping knob and tube, but modern wiring is also installed. Over time, codes change, so the installation year can often be guessed by examining the work. In my region, I could estimate the year based on the type of modifications visible. My home dates to 1929 and has three generations of wiring.
It seems the installation has been refined by the prior owner to a contemporary standard. Some areas still show minor issues, but the wiring seems secure. The breaker box isn’t the old knob-and-tube style. Phone and Ethernet cables aren’t present. If you proceed, connecting wires from each room to the panel and then to the router makes sense. A 4-6 port setup is suitable for modern devices.
I made my calculations incorrect and revised the post. It now sounds a bit different. You might have greenfield and EMT, which is actually preferable to the current methods. You could also have a mixed approach. There’s a reason electricians charge by the hour for older projects. If you’re targeting low voltage, consider using a smurf tube (nm conduit, blue). The issue is that Ethernet standards evolve, and conduit lets you switch cables easily when needed.
Purchase Cat 6A cable suitable for 10Gbit speeds up to 100 meters (about 328 feet). Ensure the cable is correctly connected and free from kinks or bends; otherwise, it may not function properly. (This applies to 6, 5e, and 5 standards too—avoid any damage.) The best approach is to locate the shortest route for installing an Ethernet switch, such as in an attic or basement, and run all cables directly to that location. Point-to-point connections work best. If possible, buy a spool of cable at the start and add extra length for termination in wall boxes. This method demands some expertise but offers a lasting solution. Alternatively, buy individual cables of the right length initially and run them through walls or ceilings without termination boxes. Be cautious, as pulling the cable can cause damage; if bent or kinked, discard it. The preferred choice is A, but if you lack experience, opt for B and be aware that any damaged cable requires replacing the entire setup, redoing your installation. You can connect everything to a switch that supports 10G speeds or a 1G speed interface, but unless you need both high and low bandwidth simultaneously, a standard 1G switch is usually sufficient. Currently, 10G hardware is significantly more expensive than 1G equipment.
You might be able to avoid a lot of trouble and purchase 1Gbit powerline adapters if your electrical wiring is decent.