s about overclocking and water cooling
s about overclocking and water cooling
PC Configuration:
Operating System - Windows 10 Home x64
Processor - i7 8700k @ 5.0GHz (Kraken x62)
Memory - 32GB @ 3200MHZ
Mainboard - ASUS ROG Maximus Code X
Graphics Card - EVGA GTX 1070 Ti / Hybrid Cooler
Display - 1920x1080 @ 60Hz, 2560x1440 @ 60Hz
Enclosure - Lian Li 011 Dynamic in Black
PC Component Picker:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Baseik/saved/yqN7WZ
This machine has a bit too much for my preferences, but it’s far from ideal. Finding relevant solutions or answers to my queries has been surprisingly difficult. I truly value any assistance. I’m a gamer focused on enjoying 1440p at top settings in Star Citizen and Black Desert Online, while still supporting titles like Civilization and World of Warcraft. My goal is to play smoothly for years without issues, and this build has taken a long time to finalize.
Upgrade Ideas:
- i9 9900k
- Open loop watercooling / 360 CPU AIO
- RTX 2080 Ti open loop (from Gigabyte, EVGA, or similar) / AIO
- z390 Motherboards (Gigabyte Aorus Extreme Water Force is currently appealing)
I’ve gathered numerous benchmarks and reviews for the i7 8700k and i9 9900k, but my main worry centers on cooling efficiency. I’m particularly interested in comparing an AIO unit like the Kraken x62 with a 360 radiator versus an open loop setup. Gamers Nexus is useful but dated. I’d love to upgrade to an open loop with two radiators inside my Lian Li 011 Dynamic case, though I’m unsure about the best approach. I need guidance on CPU or IHS placement, and how long liquid metal typically lasts before issues arise.
If I were to use liquid metal on my i7 8700k, would it maintain stability for five years without problems? I also aim for a quiet system under 120°F (50°C). Would installing two 360 radiators be sufficient, or should I stick with one? Regarding fans, cooling options, EKWB’s performance versus alternatives, whether to use monoblock or CPU blocks, and the best waterblocks from Gigabyte or EVGA compared to EKWB are key considerations.
Key Questions:
- Is EKWB the top choice for CPU/GPU waterblocks?
- Does liquid metal degrade over time, and how long would an overclocked i9 9900k or i7 8700k last?
- Is a 360 AIO better than an open loop for CPU cooling?
- What methods ensure CPU temperatures stay below 120°F / 50°C while keeping the system quiet?
- Should I opt for monoblock or CPU block installation?
- Which radiator thickness and fan combo works best?
- Are software settings easier to manage but still allow fine-tuning of RGB, speed, silence, and performance?
- What pumps are recommended?
- Are there more advanced reservoir designs available beyond basic tube setups? I prefer something with a display or indicator like the one shown in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zs51JtTxiY0
Thank you for your time.
i've spent well in excess of 40+ hours reading every post on the bullet points you've asked
You stated an "AIO" but ask about the waterblock - personally i'd stay away from AIOs - keep in mind they are built and assembled to compete on price point , ie how much is the competition charging, which means they're not offering their best equipment.
- Is EKWB the best for CPU/GPU waterblocks?
that's an interesting question and folks will line up defending EKwb and attacking them. I just finished ordering my custom set up- two rads, one up top and one in the front of the case and i suggest you consider the same, as it gives you some room to grow your cooling needs ie if you decide to liquid cool your GPU. I went with an XSPC waterblock, but only because i liked some other points about it that were subjective, not points i can defend my position on.
Is a 360 AIO for a CPU better or equal to an open loop?
Not sure what you mean by "open loop"
Back to AIOs - I haven't looked at EWKB's but most use aluminum radiators, which are cheaper - and copper/brass are better but more expensive. If you'll post a link to your particular AIO, i'll take a look at it and give you an opinion specific to it. One issue with AIOs in general is, most folks don't realize the radiators need servicing or cleaning - some folks say every 9-12 months, some say every year or two, but still you need a way to drain the system and service the radiator - ie run one of the various cleaning solutions thru it to remove the scale build up, and whatever microbacterial growth decided to colonize your system and that's difficult to do with most AIOs, 2nd point on AIOs, back to price point, they use the most economical (ie cheapest) pump in their kits, i don't care who the mfgr is. And one point about a radiator system, flow rate is critical - having a pump that can flow the crap out of the coolant thru the system is going to give you more cooling ability, plus a cheap pump isn't going to last. THe D5 pumps from all the mfgrs are the same, and are the best in terms of adjustable flow rate and durability
If you do go with a single radiator, put it up top of the case, that is the best location.
Just as a general response, i thought i'd be able to keep my system near $500 - i'm at $707 and just realized i need 4 more compression fittings, but part of the spike over $500 was ordering 5 Noctua industrial fans (2000 rpm) approx $140, plus $30 for a temp monitoring sensor & LCD display.
How can I keep my CPU temps below 120F / 50C and keep my system deathly quiet?
Not sure you're going to be able to achieve that, especially with the 9900k if you decide to OC, but if you are, you're going to need to loop two radiators into your setup. The second radiator should be blowing out, not in - and if you have 4 radiator fans exhausting outward, you should have 4 fans blowng air into the case, to maintain positive air pressure.
Monoblock or CPU block?
I'd suggest starting with a CPU block first, and once you've learned what your needs are, then going monoblock if you can find one for your board - i'd suggest you look at other boards than gigabyte or asrock
Does Radiator thickness matter or how many or the fans?
It does but the law of diminishing returns sets in, ie the thicker the radiator, the less bang you get for your buck. If you're trying to shoot for 5.8 OC then you have no choice but go for the thickest radiator, but the most critical element is radiator surface area in terms of size, ie 280 vs 360 etc. The thicker a radiator is, keep in mind 2 things, 1st as the air from the fan reaches the far side of the thick radiator, it's been warmed some, so less able to acquire heat or BTUs from the radiator fins, and 2nd, because that air has been pushed thru a thicker radiator it's now traveling slower because of the greater friction in moving thru a thicker radiator. Keep in mind, and i worked as a mechanic for the first few years of my life, car rads are usually no more than 2" thick (50mm) even though it might be a high horsepower engine which means huge amount of BTU - they cool by increasing the air flow, ie stronger fan(s) and by increased water flow (ie stronger water pump pushing water thru the radiator faster).
EKWB has a pretty good explaination on radiator thickness on their web - it's a 3 part blog but worth going thru
- here's a link to the 3rd blog, you can go back to the first two from the links in it
https://www.ekwb.com/blog/radiators-part...thickness/
I went with a 20mm thick radiator (240) in the roof of the computer to allow more room at the top of the motherboard - take a look at videos on youtube re whatever case you settle on and watercooling, and look carefully at how much room is left at the top of the motherboard - here's an example of a slim radiator (28mm) in my case - notice the top 1/4" of the ram is covered by the fans - if i ever need to get to the CPU power plugs i'll have to remove the radiator
One thing to check, you haven't stated what case you're using, but just because the case sez it's good to go for a 360mm radiator, check if the case mfgr indicates a limit on radiator actual physical size, and what the actual size of the 360mm radiator you're planning to install. Example, my case has a limit of 147mm in "width", what i'd ordinarily call the height when the long edge is sitting on a table. I must have spent 1.5 hours looking for a 280mm radiator that didn't exceed that 147mm width, and only found one (Alphacool Nexxxos ST30)
Reservoirs, can you find them in more elaborate designs? I'm not a fan of just some tube of box.. I'd rather have something on the bottom of the case or on the side that just says "display and function"
If you like that PC011 Dynamic, take a look at the Lian Li PC011 AIR - it has mounting points for 12 120mm fans and two 80mm fans, and a dual chamber setup that makes cable management super easy
Keep in mind elevation in terms of the reservoir and the pump - the higher the pump has to push the water, the harder it is or the pump, and that means decreased water flow rate which you don't want to decrease - so basically you'd like to keep the pump, reservoir and radiators on the same elevation if possible.
Pumps?
Again, the D5 has a 1500L/hr rating, and it's hard to find one that exceeds that and has the rep for durability
hope that helps some
I actually have a PC Partpicker link there that truly displays everything from keyboard and mouse to monitors, my external harddrive, case and all.
BUT...
CPU Cooler - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0Z...
Case - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16...
GPU - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16...
I completely plan to cool my CPU and GPU, maybe even upgrade for a second 2080 ti. The main reason I'm curious is whether grinding, sanding, lapping, liquid metal and so on are all worthwhile to reduce temperatures and such.
What do you mean by "higher the pump has to push the water, the harder it is or the pump.."? Like, shouldn't I not mount it at the top of the case? Should it stay at the bottom? And what about in the middle, like the guy in the video on my original post shows? Regarding open loop, I mean a custom loop. It seems the trend is for open loops and closed for AIOs.
As for overclocking, I have no real interest in massive overclocks, just small performance improvements.
Sorry, I was two scotches into the wind last night, and missed the parts picker link. I attempted the links for the CPU cooler and case, but Newegg's server seems to be offline. I'll check the case and cooler on the Mfgr's website after I answer about the elevation.
The principle here is that the higher the pump must move water (or lift it), the more effort it needs. This applies to elevation as well. Observe that all pump MFGs specify how much height they can lift water—like 3M or 5M meters. If lifting is involved, such as when a pump draws water from a well, it's essentially lifting the entire volume of water in the tube upward, countering gravity. This means the pump must handle the full weight of the water column.
Whether the pump is positioned at the bottom of the case or at the front, the task remains the same: push that water to the top of the case. It helps reduce the load on the pump, allowing it to circulate water more efficiently. The same applies if the pump were at the top and the radiators were in the floor.
Keep this in mind: these pumps typically don’t use 1/4 HP motors—most run around 23 watts, which is enough for pumping water.
In another thread, someone shared a YouTube video about liquid cooling that was quite interesting. The video contrasts a top-mounted radiator blowing outward with a front-mounted one blowing inward. I found it useful to see the reviewer demonstrate the front-mounted radiator expelling air from the case. However, what stood out was the performance difference when using an open-style GPU versus a blower-style GPU. With the top radiator and outward exhaust, CPU temperatures were higher, while with the front radiator blowing warm air in, they were lower. The blower style kept the fan running continuously, which seems more efficient for cooling in this setup. I have a few more questions about the video but will skip them here.
The Kraken line had stopped functioning because of software problems, but it might be due to compatibility issues with Windows 7. Now that SSDs and Windows 10 are supported, it actually works fine. Most users only notice this when they realize the situation. The RGB options feel limited; a true visual effect would involve breathing animations instead of just color shifts.
I really like my case, but I’ve had to admit I’m disappointed with the original Halo 2 setup… “You can pick any color you want, as long as it’s black.” The white one just looks modern.
My main goal was to install a 360-degree PE from EKWB at the top, with 360 XE radials on the right side of the motherboard as exhausts. Possibly one or two fans at the bottom and a pump at the base.
Still, I’m struggling with your explanation about value. I understand your perspective regarding cost, but for this build, I’m leaning toward going with the Kraken X72 upgrade, pairing it with an AIO 2080 Ti. If the AIO gets hot, I can replace it and order a new Kraken, avoiding all the maintenance every six months. This is mostly about whether it makes more sense to have separate loops for the GPU and CPU or run both on EKWB’s PE and XE 360s.
Current thoughts on cooling:
- EK-CoolStream XE 360 x1
- EK-CoolStream PE 360 x1
- EK-Vardar EVO 120ER RGB (500-2200 rpm) x6
- EK-CryoFuel Solid Cloud White (250mL)
- EK-DuraClear 11,1/15,9mm 3M RETAIL
- EK-Velocity D-RGB - Nickel + Acetal
- EK-DBAY D5 PWM (includes pump)
- EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black Nickel x10
- Pump/Res to CPU, CPU to Rad PE, Rad PE to GPU, GPU to Rad XE, XE to Pump/Res
Place the PE at the top of the case, XE on the right side (about the front), with PE fans as intake and XE exhaust.
particularly with the radiator positioned at the top, fans should be working hard – warm air rises naturally, so directing air inward is similar to fighting against the flow. As I reviewed the video, I noticed several inconsistencies. There are many unanswered questions, but overall I’m skeptical about capturing heat and sending it back into the case. Just try different setups and see what suits you best – one thing is clear: ensure more fans are pushing air out than coming in, and remember that a GPU also expels air.
My setup is a Fractal R6 with 9 mounting points for 120mm fans or 7 for 140mm fans. I’ll have four fans blowing out from the radiators and four from the intake – one of them is the original exhaust fan, which I’m swapping out, then using an acrylic shroud to guide air down onto the motherboard, especially the VRM area.
Be aware that when you remove the air cooler, there are no fans actively moving air around or onto the board.
As long as you maintain strong case airflow, you are free to direct your radiators in any fan orientation you prefer. The essential factor is ensuring 'good case airflow'—don’t assume it’s present unless you confirm that removing the side panel and using a powerful fan to push air into the case doesn’t alter your load temperatures.
As long as you maintain strong case airflow, you can direct your radiators in any fan direction you prefer... .
I discovered the advantages of proper airflow and positive pressure during my first project (used a SFF case), but I'm wondering what others think about placing heated air inside the case—especially top, front, or bottom mounted radiators. It seems wasteful to pull heat from the CPU and then send some back into the case.
Interestingly enough, a good custom watercooling loop isn't going to discharge as much hot air at all, if it is designed well enough. If there is enough radiator area and good enough airflow, then there should not be a lot of thermal energy build up that would cause the coolant to be more than lukewarm. If it is, then your coolant delta is much higher than it should be, and would be suffering from not enough radiator space, too low of coolant flow rate or fans that are not effective enough.
Each of these is also assuming that the chassis used as the case is able to either bring in sufficient cool air to feed these radiators or sufficient enough to remove air once expelled from the radiators. So, in my experience, a good cooling loop is kind of an item 1A and good flowing case is 1B. Without each, you are going to suffer some thermal issues, regardless.