Question Headset mic buzz but stops when you place your hand on the PC case
Question Headset mic buzz but stops when you place your hand on the PC case
Hello everyone,
I'm facing a headphone mic issue where it produces a loud buzzing noise that hampers my audibility. I believe this might be related to grounding problems. When I touch my PC case, the buzz disappears and only a faint hissing sound remains. This has been a persistent problem for years despite several attempts at fixes. I've tried using different noise cancellation software, but it often fails to capture my voice properly. I'm still uncertain whether the issue lies with the PSU or if replacing it would help. I'm planning to upgrade to a better PSU but am worried it might not resolve the problem completely. I'm still a student with limited knowledge on these topics, and any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!
I’m dealing with a problem where the headphone mic emits a loud buzzing noise that hides my voice. I suspect it’s related to grounding. When I touch the metal part of my PC case, the buzz disappears and only a faint hissing remains.
Yes, this is typically a grounding issue. The ground becomes complete by touching the metal surface of your case. It might also stem from a faulty PSU or an inadequate power cord connecting the PSU to the wall outlet.
For the PSU, it’s likely a generic model—perhaps I missed the brand and wattage since the box is old. You should note the make, model, and age of the PSU. Depending on your findings, you may need to replace it in addition to fixing the grounding problem at home.
Regarding the grounding concern, consider hiring a certified electrician to check the wiring in your space.
Moved the thread from the Computer Peripherals section to the Systems section.
From what I observe, the Blackshark doesn’t rely on standard baseband audio connections via 3.5mm jacks. It’s possible your previous headset used wired links instead.
Did you or Windows manage to install a compatible USB driver for the Razer Blackshark V2? If not, that could be why the connection failed. You may need to obtain a fitting driver from the official Razer website.
Are you employing 2.4GHz wireless or Bluetooth when using the device? Both employ radio signals, yet they differ in protocol.
If Bluetooth is active, is it version 4 or 5?
The specifications indicate Bluetooth 5.2 support, but it’s conceivable you’re still using the older Bluetooth 4 standard.
Should the USB link function properly, the headset will be connected to the computer’s chassis through the 0V wire in the cable.
When operating the Blackshark without a wired connection, it appears isolated from ground. This design allows normal functioning despite occasional buzzing.
You’ve swapped the motherboard and headset, yet the issue remains.
It seems both devices might be impacted by RFI from another source. A strong amateur radio transmitter could be the culprit—unless your father operates one or there’s a neighbor nearby.
Your microwave, which typically runs on 2.4GHz, might also be causing interference with the wireless link. It should only emit RFI when active and heating food; otherwise, it’s unlikely to be the cause.
Are there any other 2.4GHz signals close by, such as a USB dongle for a wireless keyboard or mouse? These devices often broadcast on 2.4GHz and could disrupt the headset.
You might have multiple USB dongles connected—one for the headset and another for a peripheral. Try disconnecting the second one and using a wired keyboard and mouse instead.
Another consideration mentioned by @Lutfij is verifying that all wall sockets in your home are properly grounded. A simple tester can confirm this. In the USA, you can find guides here:
https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Potential-S...ef=sr_1_37
If your ATX power supply isn’t correctly grounded to a safety earth, the Class-Y RFI filtering components won’t function properly. This can raise RFI levels and may endanger you in case of a serious fault.
The main goal is to protect against dangerous electric shocks by ensuring proper grounding.
ATX PSUs and other digital parts are known to emit substantial RFI, which can affect nearby devices.
Placing an old AM or shortwave radio near your computer and tuning to a blank frequency can reveal RFI emissions.
As an EMC Systems Engineer, I’ve tested industrial PCs and ensured compliance with EMC/EMI standards.
If everything else checks out, the next step is to inspect the ATX PSU’s grounding.
A faulty or outdated power supply—especially one nearing its warranty end—may have dried out electrolytic capacitors, increasing high-frequency noise and RFI.
The simplest fix is to restore a working USB connection for the headset. If touching the case stops the buzz, a stable wired (USB) link should replicate the result.
Consider asking your electrician to remove the side panel from your computer (with the main power lead disconnected) and inspect the ATX PSU label. If visible, proceed carefully.
If not, gently unscrew the rear panel securing the PSU and check the manufacturer’s instructions. Remove any internal components if necessary.
Always verify the PSU model and condition before making changes. A reliable PSU is crucial; avoid low-cost options that may fail or pose safety risks.
For more details, see:
https://www.zachstechturf.com/psutierlist
https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
Hello, thank you for your message.
I recently purchased a new PSU today, the be quiet! System Power U9 Bronze 600w, and switched it out right away. Although I understand it's a C tier model, I opted for 600 watts because I already have a scholarship fund to spend. My previous unit was only 250w with a peak of 700w, but nothing has changed—my PC still hums, and I'm worried it might get worse.
I noticed the power cable has three prongs, unlike my old one, which had just a ground pin. I searched and confirmed it's a ground prong, but it wasn't what I expected. Since our outlet doesn’t support the ground pin, I didn’t plug it in directly. Instead, I bought an online version that includes a ground pin.
Currently, I’m using an extension cable that supports the ground pin.
My headphones have an audio jack as the main connection, but I use an audio splitter and an external sound card (UGREEN) to reduce static noise from my mic, which has helped somewhat.
I’ve also tried unplugging everything except the display cable, including my mouse’s dongle, but the static still remains. I haven’t tested the outlets yet, but I think that should be my next step.