Problem with the new build.
Problem with the new build.
I assembled a fresh build and encountered two problems. First, the Lian Li fans are tricky because you can't find a triple set of the 140 models, yet you still need a controller. I purchased six UNI Fan SL-Infinity 140 single reverse units, but couldn’t get them in packs—so no controller came with them. Next, I bought three regular 140 fans without a controller, then one triple pack of 120 fans (which included the controller I needed). This resulted in three sets of three fans and one set of two fans from the 120 series. I connected everything to the controller from the triple 120 pack, using four cables from each fan group into it. I connected the USB to the motherboard via the controller, leaving only two SATA cables from the controller. I used two SATA cables from my PSU for better power delivery. Once the PC powered on, all eleven fans displayed standard RGB rainbow colors. After installing L-Connect 3, the fans shifted to solid blue, red, and green hues—promising signs. However, the software only displayed “System Info” and “Settings,” with no other options. The issue persisted.
I troubleshooted by checking connections, trying different PSU cables, restarting, reinstalling L-Connect multiple times, and even swapping fan sets to another motherboard slot. I noticed that the USB connection was weak, so fans would speed up and change colors if the cable disconnected. I ensured the USB stayed plugged in. Eventually, all fans ran at full power regardless of color, which was unexpected.
One cord connected directly from the fan group to the motherboard worked—this gave me hope. But L-Connect still failed to recognize it or function properly, even after removing the controller and using the motherboard directly. I had only two options in the software: nothing else appeared. After hours of attempts, I’m exhausted. The purchase cost a lot, and this has been incredibly frustrating. Any suggestions?
Isn't it possible to link the fans straight to the motherboard? That would be a simpler setup. The noise level seems acceptable, so I might run tests using the manufacturer's tools or HD Sentinel.
Uncertain about your words, not used to native speech. You can link those fans easily, can you? That means you might need 3 to 4 fan headers. Today most systems use 4-pin connectors that work with both 3-pin and 4-pin fans. I think your motherboard has a total of 7 fan connectors (including the pump). Your WD hard drive probably makes some unusual sounds occasionally. I guess it’s normal for Windows to check drives from time to time. While I understand the noise is unexpected if it’s always happening, it seems fine to me. Is this program using that drive? Edited August 14, 2025 by leclod
I can't rely on my motherboard since the AIO occupies half of it or more. It also restricts the RGB options, which was the main reason for choosing them. I switched to a different controller and they now display solid colors, but the software still fails to detect them despite multiple installs. The HDD continues to make noises even when idle—it doesn't make sense. I've never experienced this issue with any HDD, and no one else has reported it either. Constructing a new PC has turned into a total nightmare where everything is broken and nonfunctional.
Open settings, select "Power and Sleep," then tap "Additional Power Settings." On the next screen, choose your plan and click "Change advanced power settings." In the window that appears, look at the first option—Hard Drives—and set it to "Never sleep" if you're using Windows 10.
I attempted to configure it as Never, followed by Windows settings. When you reopen the dialog, it reverts to 0, which seems acceptable if it functions, though the drive continues to make noise. It’s frustrating—I need a reliable solution, any suggestions would help.
Setting to Never ensures continuous operation with no power-off cycles. The default value of 0 is unusual, while my system sets it to 20 minutes by default.
I've experimented with various small numbers: never, zero, 10000, 2880, 800, 1200, but nothing seems to help—it just starts clicking. I see some discussions about this elsewhere. It feels strange... but the settings don’t seem to work for this drive either. I’m confused.