Problem with starting Windows?
Problem with starting Windows?
Hi, I'm really confused about this. I turned on my PC after two weeks of regular use and it didn't crash. It led me to the advanced repair option, but I ended up in an endless loop. After resetting the PC, I'm still stuck in a repeating 'preparing automatic repair' cycle. I've also tried cleaning install Windows from two different USB drives, but now I'm stuck on a loading screen with the Windows logo and don't know what to do next.
Can you boot into safe mode
You really need to give more info even what "windows" you are using at the very least !
What processor, windows version, hard drive configuration
I'm sorry, I can't boot into safe mode because I keep getting stuck on the automatic repair screen. I'm running Windows 11 with a Ryzen 7800X3D and a 2TB SSD.
The Windows repair from the main menu didn't work properly. Try reinstalling Windows on a cleaned-up disk first. Ensure your BIOS is set to UEFI mode and TPM is enabled. Use W11 from the MS site with the Media Creation Tool to create a bootable USB drive.
I tried it, but it still shows a black screen, the brand logo appears briefly, and then it goes back to a black screen where I can't see the mouse.
Are there any blinking underscore symbols at the edges of the screen, or is it a completely black display?
Can you get into the BIOS by "spamming" the 'Del' key as fast as possible when you switch on? I have one machine where the USB keyboard is not detected in time, before the 'Del' key time window has ended. On this machine I use an old PS/2 keyboard to get into the BIOS.
I normally disable the motherboard's brand logo in the BIOS, because I prefer to see text on the screen during POST, showing what drives and other hardware are detected, before Windows boots. That way I can access the boot ROM on my LSI SAS HBA controller cards. A bland uninformative logo screen stops me from monitoring my hardware,
Apparently something is preventing you from booting to USB or SSD (hence the black screen) and you may have to tweak a BIOS security or boot setting. If you can't get into the BIOS, you could try temporarily removing the CR2032 battery to clear its settings.
Another trick to wake up an unresponsive BIOS is to remove all the DIMMs, then switch on and wait for the system to reset. When it complains there's no RAM, power off completely, fit the DIMMs and try again.
As
@CountMike
says, I find Windows so-called "Repair" function often fails. Occasionally it sorts things out, but more often I resort to reinstalling Windows from scratch.
When you are finally able to start reinstalling Windows 11, use the Advanced setup option when booting from USB, to delete all existing partitions on your SSD (I'm assuming there's nothing on the drive you want to keep). If you're presented with an option to repair an existing Windows installation, you may be wasting your time. I find a fresh install after wiping old partitions usually works best.
When I'm re-installing Windows 10 on an old "used" drive, I delete a small 16MB partition (GPT), a nominal 100MB boot partition, a nominal 540MB Recovery partition and a large Windows C: drive partition filling the rest of the disk. If the drive is MBR, not GPT, there's no 16MB partition.
I pick each partition in turn, select Delete, then move on to the next partition. When all the old partitions are deleted, install Window in the free space. Setup will create all the necessary new partitions automatically.
The same process is probably valid for deleting Windows 11 partitions. I don't know for certain because I'm still trying to decide what OS to run after October 14 and I've only tried Windows 11 on old machines with Secure Boot, Microsoft Account and TPM 2.0 disabled in Rufus.
https://www.wintips.org/create-a-windows...ith-rufus/
i can enter the BIOS fine, but the problem is that during regular booting i encounter an infinite load screen. When I boot into Windows I see an endless ‘preparing automatic repair’ message. Using a bootable USB with the creation media tool from microsoft usually results in either an endless loading screen or sometimes it displays the Windows logo instead of the installer, which then leads to a black screen.
Have you removed all the current partitions on your 2TB SSD as I recommended?
When you start from the Windows 11 USB drive and see the screen, it usually chooses to Upgrade if it detects any previous version of Windows on the SSD.
Skip the Upgrade option and pick "Custom: Install Windows only (advanced)".
The subsequent display will list all existing partitions. Choose each one and delete them one by one.
You’ll end up with an empty drive, identical to the one shown below, where the whole disk is marked as 'Unallocated space'.
After removing all old partitions, you shouldn’t encounter any more repair prompts for Windows.
Proceed to Next, and the installation will create fresh partitions on the clean drive.
It’s advisable to turn off memory overclocks (disable XMP/EXPO/DOCP) during this process to ensure stability.
If issues persist, consider a Linux installation to verify the SSD functionality. Disable Secure Boot and TPM in the BIOS just for simplicity. These settings can complicate things on Linux and TPM is unnecessary.
I think your black screen may stem from incompatible BIOS configurations interfering with Windows setup. If Linux installs without trouble, it confirms the SSD is working.
Once that’s confirmed, you can retry Windows, but remember to re-enable Secure Boot and TPM 2.0 for added protection.
If problems continue, try using Rufus to generate a Windows 11 USB key that bypasses security features and lets you create a Local Account:
https://www.wintips.org/create-a-windows...ith-rufus/
Following Linux’s approach, disable Secure Boot and TPM in the BIOS before using the Rufus key. Remove all partitions and install a less secure Windows 11 copy.
If this succeeds, you’ll verify the SSD is functional and can restart the process with Secure Boot and TPM enabled using the standard USB method without any modifications.
Persistence may be needed, but eventually it should work again.
Most of my previous systems lack TPM 2.0, and some have no TPM header at all. I’ve never used TPM or Secure Boot with Windows 10, so I’ve simply followed Microsoft’s advice to upgrade for better security. Whatever you choose!