Problem Occurs When Attempting To Power On Without Changing The Power Source
Problem Occurs When Attempting To Power On Without Changing The Power Source
Another thing to mention is:
When the repair shop attempted to mimic my issue, they observed that the "DRAM" and "CPU" indicators on the motherboard briefly activated before turning off, yet the PC would still boot normally each time. These same indicators appear when my system completely fails to start. I’m not certain if this matters, but it might offer useful clues. What are your thoughts on this?
Do they remain active when the system won't start? If so, that indicates something is wrong.
We're still unsure if the problem comes from dirty power at the wall outlet, just as you mentioned it functioned properly during repairs.
Could we use a dedicated power source that doesn't interfere with standard plug-in setups?
I've created several computers that operated perfectly in my workshop but failed at clients' homes without boot problems.
If the issue reappears in the shop, removing the power supply resolved it.
Interesting observation: the same power supply that caused trouble at the client's place consistently works in other systems.
Considering the wall itself, if the socket is problematic, a UPS with brownout protection would be the appropriate solution. Power outlets are rarely the source of concern, yet the frequency of wiring issues within the wall is much greater than most assume. Problems can include voltage levels below requirements or improper grounding (which might not appear in typical use but could disable sensitive equipment).
EDIT: Focus on specifications rather than general functionality. Is there a method to verify socket voltage during operation?
They do, indeed.
I'm sure it's related to the wall power, as @LinuxDevice pointed out recently. I won't be able to properly test it with a voltmeter until I get one. It could take until next week for it to arrive (I'm not very close to the nearest hardware store and don't own a car right now), so I'll try to find a solution then.
I finally got both a receptacle tester and a proper voltmeter. The tester shows it's functioning properly, with the center and left lights on, which matches the diagram as "correct." I also purchased the Wattmeter from the Amazon link you provided. It’s displaying: 122.20 Volts, 0.48 Amp, 56.4 - 56.6 Watts, 60 Hz. Since I’m not very experienced with electricity, I’m unsure if these readings make sense, but the amperage here seems too low—anyone here have a better idea? The power supply specifications mention an AC input of 100-240V, 10-5A, 60/50Hz.
I own the identical Kill-A-Watt meter.
Positioned between the wall outlet and the UPS that powers the computer and monitor.
Display shows 119.5 volts, which fluctuates slightly.
Current reads 0.48 amps, though it can increase slightly at times.
= = = =
Yes, that aligns with what I'm seeing. It seems the problem might be related to the wattage. The specifications I find online suggest a much higher wattage than what my outlets can handle—even the fridge only reaches about 80 watts. I’ll need to check if an electrician can help me out.
I'm not clear on what you mean. The power usage of a device depends on the load, not just the source. Power equals current squared times resistance. Here, P is the power drawn by the device, I is the current from the source, and R is the resistance of the load (your PC). It's possible that high resistance in the wiring could cause a voltage drop, affecting the outlet voltage. You can check this by measuring the AC voltage at the outlet with and without the PC connected. If the reading changes, it might indicate an issue. Your voltmeter can help test this. I'm not an expert, but I'm familiar with basic electricity and electronics. Let me know if you need more assistance. We should be able to find the problem together.