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Craftzer527
Member
71
11-15-2021, 10:51 AM
#11
It works but only in single channel mode instead of dual, which means it runs at reduced performance. Your power supply isn’t the issue—it has a 10-year warranty, so it’s still within the expected reliability period. You can say technically it’s the final safety net if it fails, but with a decade of coverage most should be fine. It doesn’t put much strain on the system either.

You might consider updating the BIOS to the latest version if you have one—AMI BIOS 7D09v1A (2024-08-09, 8.71 MB) is available. The new version should already be present in the BIOS screen. I think it’s best to avoid any RAM mismatch after a clear CMOS reset.
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Craftzer527
11-15-2021, 10:51 AM #11

It works but only in single channel mode instead of dual, which means it runs at reduced performance. Your power supply isn’t the issue—it has a 10-year warranty, so it’s still within the expected reliability period. You can say technically it’s the final safety net if it fails, but with a decade of coverage most should be fine. It doesn’t put much strain on the system either.

You might consider updating the BIOS to the latest version if you have one—AMI BIOS 7D09v1A (2024-08-09, 8.71 MB) is available. The new version should already be present in the BIOS screen. I think it’s best to avoid any RAM mismatch after a clear CMOS reset.

A
Adabelle
Senior Member
724
12-03-2021, 05:00 AM
#12
and typically one dimmer fits into slot a2.
A
Adabelle
12-03-2021, 05:00 AM #12

and typically one dimmer fits into slot a2.

B
Bahezz
Member
201
12-07-2021, 05:57 PM
#13
I followed up by installing the new PSU and performing the CMOS reset as recommended (I briefly removed the battery). One of the steps resolved the issue, allowing me to boot into Windows on a single stick of v5.30 RAM first, then successfully switched to all four sticks afterward. I currently have the v5.30 sticks in A2 and B2, while the v4.32 sticks are in A1 and B1.

I checked for any unusual smells but didn’t find anything out of the ordinary. I plan to complete the setup, replace everything with my larger 500GB M.2 drive, and try reinstalling Windows there.

If problems arise, please let me know. Otherwise, thank you for your assistance.
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Bahezz
12-07-2021, 05:57 PM #13

I followed up by installing the new PSU and performing the CMOS reset as recommended (I briefly removed the battery). One of the steps resolved the issue, allowing me to boot into Windows on a single stick of v5.30 RAM first, then successfully switched to all four sticks afterward. I currently have the v5.30 sticks in A2 and B2, while the v4.32 sticks are in A1 and B1.

I checked for any unusual smells but didn’t find anything out of the ordinary. I plan to complete the setup, replace everything with my larger 500GB M.2 drive, and try reinstalling Windows there.

If problems arise, please let me know. Otherwise, thank you for your assistance.

_
_Kitts_
Junior Member
44
12-14-2021, 02:26 AM
#14
I also have an extra question. My new PSU (RM850e) has a different connector than what I'm used to. I checked online and it looks fine, but I thought it would be better to ask here.
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_Kitts_
12-14-2021, 02:26 AM #14

I also have an extra question. My new PSU (RM850e) has a different connector than what I'm used to. I checked online and it looks fine, but I thought it would be better to ask here.

J
jellybeansean
Member
164
12-14-2021, 05:00 AM
#15
You'd observe a brief interruption. The mobo is placed on the standoffs and held in place with screws. These also act as a ground plane, though we won't explore that further.
Short circuits might occur occasionally, or in rare instances, solder bridges could form on the mobo—usually leading to non-functionality.
Occasionally the short happens sometimes, other times it doesn’t. I damaged a power supply with an old ASUS FX 990 sabertooth, but it didn’t destroy the system; in many cases, such incidents severely affected components.
To check memory stability, run a bootable Memtest86 USB and perform a test—at least one pass is sufficient. Stress tests recommend running the procedure two or four times, as prolonged use can reveal stable RAM settings.
Windows also includes a built-in memtester, with various apps available for similar purposes. In short, it’s mainly about confirming the system runs but not fully ruling out long-term errors that might harm Windows files and disable functionality.
Memory can deteriorate due to factors like excessive voltage or power fluctuations from other parts, or inherent design limits. Memory errors don’t always indicate a faulty RAM module; they can resemble a highly sensitive clockwork—prone to jitter but functioning well under normal conditions.
I’m uncertain about the power cable I use—it’s not an 850e—and my GPU only requires a single 8-pin PCIe connector, suggesting I may lack experience with that setup.
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jellybeansean
12-14-2021, 05:00 AM #15

You'd observe a brief interruption. The mobo is placed on the standoffs and held in place with screws. These also act as a ground plane, though we won't explore that further.
Short circuits might occur occasionally, or in rare instances, solder bridges could form on the mobo—usually leading to non-functionality.
Occasionally the short happens sometimes, other times it doesn’t. I damaged a power supply with an old ASUS FX 990 sabertooth, but it didn’t destroy the system; in many cases, such incidents severely affected components.
To check memory stability, run a bootable Memtest86 USB and perform a test—at least one pass is sufficient. Stress tests recommend running the procedure two or four times, as prolonged use can reveal stable RAM settings.
Windows also includes a built-in memtester, with various apps available for similar purposes. In short, it’s mainly about confirming the system runs but not fully ruling out long-term errors that might harm Windows files and disable functionality.
Memory can deteriorate due to factors like excessive voltage or power fluctuations from other parts, or inherent design limits. Memory errors don’t always indicate a faulty RAM module; they can resemble a highly sensitive clockwork—prone to jitter but functioning well under normal conditions.
I’m uncertain about the power cable I use—it’s not an 850e—and my GPU only requires a single 8-pin PCIe connector, suggesting I may lack experience with that setup.

T
TitanJR
Member
65
12-16-2021, 06:30 AM
#16
I'll attempt the memtest to check for any issues. If needed, I'll try the Windows method after reinstalling. Thanks again for your support—hopefully the PC will work better then.
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TitanJR
12-16-2021, 06:30 AM #16

I'll attempt the memtest to check for any issues. If needed, I'll try the Windows method after reinstalling. Thanks again for your support—hopefully the PC will work better then.

X
xRazerxX
Junior Member
48
12-16-2021, 01:29 PM
#17
You can indeed use the 12V-2x6 connector to link your card. This represents the latest standard capable of supplying 600W, which is more than sufficient for the 2080 Ti. If you require a 32GB of RAM, opt for a 2x16 GB package, preferably with a CL16 speed of 3600 MT/s. Combining two distinct kits with varying timing isn't advisable, as it negatively impacts both performance and stability.
X
xRazerxX
12-16-2021, 01:29 PM #17

You can indeed use the 12V-2x6 connector to link your card. This represents the latest standard capable of supplying 600W, which is more than sufficient for the 2080 Ti. If you require a 32GB of RAM, opt for a 2x16 GB package, preferably with a CL16 speed of 3600 MT/s. Combining two distinct kits with varying timing isn't advisable, as it negatively impacts both performance and stability.

G
Gapyyyyy
Member
64
12-20-2021, 03:25 AM
#18
It's great to hear that! The reduced cable management is a nice improvement. I initially worried this setup was meant for older 50 series cards and thought it might cause problems. But my friend who upgraded confirmed it worked well for them without any issues. I'm planning to stick with the system default clock speed of 2100mhz and consider swapping in new RAM soon. Regarding the memory size, the 2x16GB configuration is preferred over 4x8GB because it offers better performance and efficiency.
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Gapyyyyy
12-20-2021, 03:25 AM #18

It's great to hear that! The reduced cable management is a nice improvement. I initially worried this setup was meant for older 50 series cards and thought it might cause problems. But my friend who upgraded confirmed it worked well for them without any issues. I'm planning to stick with the system default clock speed of 2100mhz and consider swapping in new RAM soon. Regarding the memory size, the 2x16GB configuration is preferred over 4x8GB because it offers better performance and efficiency.

O
OldWriterDan
Junior Member
3
12-30-2021, 05:33 AM
#19
They claim it puts extra strain on the memory controller. I question whether the parts can actually handle such stress. It merely forces them to perform additional tasks, like switching dims from single row to dual row, which increases processing time and adds a tiny delay of nanoseconds when handling eight rows instead of four.

This issue can accumulate with other limitations and lead to overall slower performance.

You don’t need to run 32GB—it’s now common practice as Steam has announced moving forward—but everything that functioned well on 16GB will still work.

There’s a minor edge to 32GB, mainly due to reduced system paging, but I’m testing the same games on DDR4 3600 (2x16) instead of the older DDR3 2x8 setup.

Overall, the new system should run smoother, though I remain confident in the RAM.

Getting mixed configurations might require adjusting timings and climbing a challenge, so remember to save your profile—remembering that the base specs are lower than the XMP settings, which involve technical overclocking, and the CPU’s official spec supports only certain values.

Speeds above that may succeed, but they’re not guaranteed.

Regarding running essential apps without a backup routine—essentially, if you use non-QVL dims, it means you’re free to experiment with memory settings and share your findings. Just keep in mind the base specifications are lower than the XMP profile, which is essentially technical overclocking, and the CPU’s official rating matches what the manufacturer supports.

Beyond that, speeds might work, but only under certain conditions.

As for whether you’re running critical applications without a backup plan—well, if you’re using non-QVL dims, it’s like saying you’re welcome to test memory performance and help others discover which kits work best. It’s a bit of a gamble, but it could be fun if you’re comfortable with troubleshooting.
O
OldWriterDan
12-30-2021, 05:33 AM #19

They claim it puts extra strain on the memory controller. I question whether the parts can actually handle such stress. It merely forces them to perform additional tasks, like switching dims from single row to dual row, which increases processing time and adds a tiny delay of nanoseconds when handling eight rows instead of four.

This issue can accumulate with other limitations and lead to overall slower performance.

You don’t need to run 32GB—it’s now common practice as Steam has announced moving forward—but everything that functioned well on 16GB will still work.

There’s a minor edge to 32GB, mainly due to reduced system paging, but I’m testing the same games on DDR4 3600 (2x16) instead of the older DDR3 2x8 setup.

Overall, the new system should run smoother, though I remain confident in the RAM.

Getting mixed configurations might require adjusting timings and climbing a challenge, so remember to save your profile—remembering that the base specs are lower than the XMP settings, which involve technical overclocking, and the CPU’s official spec supports only certain values.

Speeds above that may succeed, but they’re not guaranteed.

Regarding running essential apps without a backup routine—essentially, if you use non-QVL dims, it means you’re free to experiment with memory settings and share your findings. Just keep in mind the base specifications are lower than the XMP profile, which is essentially technical overclocking, and the CPU’s official rating matches what the manufacturer supports.

Beyond that, speeds might work, but only under certain conditions.

As for whether you’re running critical applications without a backup plan—well, if you’re using non-QVL dims, it’s like saying you’re welcome to test memory performance and help others discover which kits work best. It’s a bit of a gamble, but it could be fun if you’re comfortable with troubleshooting.

M
MarioEpic678
Junior Member
15
12-30-2021, 06:29 AM
#20
I’d like to avoid any troubleshooting. I’m coming from an old machine that wasn’t even allowed to get upgraded to Win11, and I think Win11 uses more resources than Win10 does, so 32GB should be the best option. That said, the only game I’ve ever struggled with on my 16GB system was Star Citizen, which isn’t really a demanding title. Still, it would be great to have a setup that can run new games smoothly without much hassle. I’m just relieved I got this working before Arc Raiders launches in two days lmao. Playing it on an i7 7700k caused a complete CPU bottleneck. Just glad I have a machine that feels more modern again.
M
MarioEpic678
12-30-2021, 06:29 AM #20

I’d like to avoid any troubleshooting. I’m coming from an old machine that wasn’t even allowed to get upgraded to Win11, and I think Win11 uses more resources than Win10 does, so 32GB should be the best option. That said, the only game I’ve ever struggled with on my 16GB system was Star Citizen, which isn’t really a demanding title. Still, it would be great to have a setup that can run new games smoothly without much hassle. I’m just relieved I got this working before Arc Raiders launches in two days lmao. Playing it on an i7 7700k caused a complete CPU bottleneck. Just glad I have a machine that feels more modern again.

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