F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop PC is unable to send a post, possibly due to an error on your end.

PC is unable to send a post, possibly due to an error on your end.

PC is unable to send a post, possibly due to an error on your end.

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K
kalleboii
Senior Member
738
09-28-2021, 01:08 AM
#1
Real quick, the system specs are
CPU: i7 10700k
GPU: 2080Ti
Mobo: MSI Z590
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 32GB (4x8)
PSU: Corsair HX850
So, the tldr is that I'm broke and haven't had much opportunity to upgrade my PC over the years. A good friend was upgrading and had some hand me down parts that he didn't need and offered them to me. He mailed them out, they arrived, I put everything together, hit the power button and... Everything worked perfect. I went through a fresh Windows 11 installation, installed some games that used to run like crap, ran them for a few hours, and was very, very happy.
A couple hours later, said friend hopped in discord and informed me that my system probably defaulted to lower RAM clock speeds and recommended I boot into my BIOS and set an XMP profile (something I had never done). Sure enough, they were at 2100 rather than the rated 3200. I tried setting them to 3200, "overclock failed". He said try again, and again "overclock failed". I tried reverting to the auto setting it was on prior and it set to auto 3000mhz, so I figured I'd try it out, and it worked. Booted into Windows, everything was fine. Until I launched a game and it crashed shortly after.
I tried launching it again, instant crash. I tried opening my browser and it crashed. Discord crashed. I tried shutting my PC off, Windows crashed. Booted back into my BIOS and reset the RAM to 2100, but after doing this, I couldn't even see my Windows install anymore. The M.2 was there, but no Windows installation was detected.
Tried using my thumb drive to repair Windows but the repair failed. Tried cleaning the drive and reinstalling entirely but it would get to around 70-80% installation and then reboot my PC, boot back into my thumb drive and tell me to remove the media and click yes, but this did not work. No Windows installation was detected.
Finally, I tried swapping out for a different drive and this time, the PC just failed to POST. The EZ Debug lights would momentarily flash CPU, then go down to DRAM, hang there and then turn from white to yellow and that's as far as it gets.
According to what I've found, the momentary light on CPU is normal.
"The debug LEDs may blink during the boot process, but this is normal. It only becomes an issue when the light becomes fixed on a particular LED"
So I'm hopeful that the PC is mostly fine. However, my friend is convinced it's not the RAM that's the issue. He thinks there's either a short on my mother board due to a contact point with metal or something (idk a thing about this) or that my PSU is dying. I have a new PSU on the way, but I was just really hoping for a second opinion, as this has been stressing me out a lot. Sorry for the wall of text and thank you for any insight you can provide.
K
kalleboii
09-28-2021, 01:08 AM #1

Real quick, the system specs are
CPU: i7 10700k
GPU: 2080Ti
Mobo: MSI Z590
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 32GB (4x8)
PSU: Corsair HX850
So, the tldr is that I'm broke and haven't had much opportunity to upgrade my PC over the years. A good friend was upgrading and had some hand me down parts that he didn't need and offered them to me. He mailed them out, they arrived, I put everything together, hit the power button and... Everything worked perfect. I went through a fresh Windows 11 installation, installed some games that used to run like crap, ran them for a few hours, and was very, very happy.
A couple hours later, said friend hopped in discord and informed me that my system probably defaulted to lower RAM clock speeds and recommended I boot into my BIOS and set an XMP profile (something I had never done). Sure enough, they were at 2100 rather than the rated 3200. I tried setting them to 3200, "overclock failed". He said try again, and again "overclock failed". I tried reverting to the auto setting it was on prior and it set to auto 3000mhz, so I figured I'd try it out, and it worked. Booted into Windows, everything was fine. Until I launched a game and it crashed shortly after.
I tried launching it again, instant crash. I tried opening my browser and it crashed. Discord crashed. I tried shutting my PC off, Windows crashed. Booted back into my BIOS and reset the RAM to 2100, but after doing this, I couldn't even see my Windows install anymore. The M.2 was there, but no Windows installation was detected.
Tried using my thumb drive to repair Windows but the repair failed. Tried cleaning the drive and reinstalling entirely but it would get to around 70-80% installation and then reboot my PC, boot back into my thumb drive and tell me to remove the media and click yes, but this did not work. No Windows installation was detected.
Finally, I tried swapping out for a different drive and this time, the PC just failed to POST. The EZ Debug lights would momentarily flash CPU, then go down to DRAM, hang there and then turn from white to yellow and that's as far as it gets.
According to what I've found, the momentary light on CPU is normal.
"The debug LEDs may blink during the boot process, but this is normal. It only becomes an issue when the light becomes fixed on a particular LED"
So I'm hopeful that the PC is mostly fine. However, my friend is convinced it's not the RAM that's the issue. He thinks there's either a short on my mother board due to a contact point with metal or something (idk a thing about this) or that my PSU is dying. I have a new PSU on the way, but I was just really hoping for a second opinion, as this has been stressing me out a lot. Sorry for the wall of text and thank you for any insight you can provide.

S
sean78921
Junior Member
4
10-03-2021, 03:26 PM
#2
power off switch off mains and unplug. Drain 'flea power' by pressing the power button for 30 seconds, then try clearing CMOS by resetting. As per the manual, the CMOS jumper Jbat 1 is located just south of the coin battery housing. If you don’t have a proper jumper switch (they used to come in bundles), you can short the pins with a flathead screwdriver for 10 seconds. Remove two dimms from sockets A1 and B1, then attempt again with only two dimms in A2 and B2. The 4x8 configuration might be questionable for stability. How long has the HX power supply been used?
S
sean78921
10-03-2021, 03:26 PM #2

power off switch off mains and unplug. Drain 'flea power' by pressing the power button for 30 seconds, then try clearing CMOS by resetting. As per the manual, the CMOS jumper Jbat 1 is located just south of the coin battery housing. If you don’t have a proper jumper switch (they used to come in bundles), you can short the pins with a flathead screwdriver for 10 seconds. Remove two dimms from sockets A1 and B1, then attempt again with only two dimms in A2 and B2. The 4x8 configuration might be questionable for stability. How long has the HX power supply been used?

D
dae1250
Junior Member
20
10-03-2021, 04:53 PM
#3
The power supply seems to be quite old, about seven years. I'm delaying any work on my PC until I get the new one, which should arrive tomorrow. I'll follow your advice once it's installed, thank you. Also, I didn't realize there was a mismatch in the RAM. All four sticks are 3000Mhz Corsair Vengeance LPX, but they seem to be two different sets—one pair is v4.32 16-20-20-38 and the other is v5.30 15-17-17-35. I wasn't aware of this during installation, with one pair in slots 1&2 and another in slots 3&4. Could this have caused any problems? I've heard mixing RAM can be problematic, though a friend used the same setup without issues.
D
dae1250
10-03-2021, 04:53 PM #3

The power supply seems to be quite old, about seven years. I'm delaying any work on my PC until I get the new one, which should arrive tomorrow. I'll follow your advice once it's installed, thank you. Also, I didn't realize there was a mismatch in the RAM. All four sticks are 3000Mhz Corsair Vengeance LPX, but they seem to be two different sets—one pair is v4.32 16-20-20-38 and the other is v5.30 15-17-17-35. I wasn't aware of this during installation, with one pair in slots 1&2 and another in slots 3&4. Could this have caused any problems? I've heard mixing RAM can be problematic, though a friend used the same setup without issues.

E
Eduardo_GameOn
Posting Freak
921
10-03-2021, 05:42 PM
#4
This detail is important. One pair would be useful to refer to once a part is removed, and it should be included on the label as well.
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Eduardo_GameOn
10-03-2021, 05:42 PM #4

This detail is important. One pair would be useful to refer to once a part is removed, and it should be included on the label as well.

H
hoborichboy
Junior Member
9
10-05-2021, 02:23 AM
#5
Hope you got it correct, these are all four sticks.
H
hoborichboy
10-05-2021, 02:23 AM #5

Hope you got it correct, these are all four sticks.

C
Chester007
Senior Member
528
10-10-2021, 01:02 AM
#6
The part numbers were clear, so I'll verify them against the mobo memory compatibility list.
C
Chester007
10-10-2021, 01:02 AM #6

The part numbers were clear, so I'll verify them against the mobo memory compatibility list.

_
_SiebePlayz_
Junior Member
40
10-10-2021, 05:05 AM
#7
here's the
support list
- if you type Corsair in the search box that'll reduce the number of modules listed, look at 3000mhz listings (click 10th gen)
CORSAIR
CMK16GX4M2B3000C15 ver5.30
DDR4
2133
3000
SK hynix
1.35
SINGLE
8
√ | √ | √
One is, this one, didn't see it
cmk16gx4m2d3000c16
dbl check case I'm blind
_
_SiebePlayz_
10-10-2021, 05:05 AM #7

here's the
support list
- if you type Corsair in the search box that'll reduce the number of modules listed, look at 3000mhz listings (click 10th gen)
CORSAIR
CMK16GX4M2B3000C15 ver5.30
DDR4
2133
3000
SK hynix
1.35
SINGLE
8
√ | √ | √
One is, this one, didn't see it
cmk16gx4m2d3000c16
dbl check case I'm blind

H
HappyLobster
Member
86
10-10-2021, 01:54 PM
#8
Nah, you're correct. The ver4.32 version isn't included in the 10th Gen support list. That's frustrating. But at least I'm feeling better now. My concern about the PSU failing just when I needed it was really stressing me, but it looks like ordering four sets of compatible DDR4 RAM might be the right move since my current ones are probably dead. It's not helpful that he mentioned they run at 3200mhz, though—I should have been careful with my 3000mhz RAM settings. Still, I'll learn from this. Thanks a lot, man! I'll place the order and update you once I've installed it.
H
HappyLobster
10-10-2021, 01:54 PM #8

Nah, you're correct. The ver4.32 version isn't included in the 10th Gen support list. That's frustrating. But at least I'm feeling better now. My concern about the PSU failing just when I needed it was really stressing me, but it looks like ordering four sets of compatible DDR4 RAM might be the right move since my current ones are probably dead. It's not helpful that he mentioned they run at 3200mhz, though—I should have been careful with my 3000mhz RAM settings. Still, I'll learn from this. Thanks a lot, man! I'll place the order and update you once I've installed it.

D
Deurman
Member
120
10-14-2021, 01:10 AM
#9
They shouldn't be dead unless the voltage becomes excessively high, which seems improbable. It's not harmful to attempt using the compatible kit; try it on A2 and B2 to check if it works.
D
Deurman
10-14-2021, 01:10 AM #9

They shouldn't be dead unless the voltage becomes excessively high, which seems improbable. It's not harmful to attempt using the compatible kit; try it on A2 and B2 to check if it works.

D
dehunter456
Member
237
11-02-2021, 03:16 PM
#10
I'll test the new PSU tomorrow. Can a PC run with just one stick of RAM? I might also try that if it succeeds.
D
dehunter456
11-02-2021, 03:16 PM #10

I'll test the new PSU tomorrow. Can a PC run with just one stick of RAM? I might also try that if it succeeds.

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